lowering cap install help...
- Thread starter Jeffsss
- Start date
the rod that connects to the other side of the car (circled in red) doesnt move so I cant take the bolt out that is holding the front coil over on.
any suggestions?
any suggestions?
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Brian GTS
Enthusiast
I've installed caps on a couple cars and had the same problem. It helps if you loosen and remove the top mounting bolt and pull the shock from the upper mount. Then, you can twist the shock a little bit (clockwise)....enough for the lower bolt to clear. Note: Mine still barely cleared....but it made it around it with a couple taps on the bolt from the opposite side. Hope this helps! 
NO HEMI
Enthusiast
So you know how to install caps brian!!, we might need to do a " mod" day!! Lol
Fatboy 18
Enthusiast
Ha Ha, yes did mine exactly the same wayI've installed caps on a couple cars and had the same problem. It helps if you loosen and remove the top mounting bolt and pull the shock from the upper mount. Then, you can twist the shock a little bit (clockwise)....enough for the lower bolt to clear. Note: Mine still barely cleared....but it made it around it with a couple taps on the bolt from the opposite side. Hope this helps!
PittsburghRT
Enthusiast
I have been wanting to do this mod. Thanks for the info.
SNKEBIT
Enthusiast
Take the nut off the bottom of the lower control arm!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Screw the nut off until it is flush with the end of the stud and tap upwards with a hammer, finish removing nut. You have to do both sides at the same time. Rotate the sway bar out of the way and remove lower shock bolt. When you put the lower shock bolt in, PUT IT IN THE OTHER WAY so the next time you don't have to remove the sway bar links.
You just need to remove the sway bar link. It looks like your links is bad as well.
Exactly the same procedure I used, except I had a hammer and drift to help things along too. Good work Jeff! Just be glad you don't have to remove the rear shocks from their forks! And yes, your stabilizer link boot is gone and it won't be long till the joint makes noise or fails. If you replace it, use the 'two hammer' method to pop the link from the eye.I've installed caps on a couple cars and had the same problem. It helps if you loosen and remove the top mounting bolt and pull the shock from the upper mount. Then, you can twist the shock a little bit (clockwise)....enough for the lower bolt to clear. Note: Mine still barely cleared....but it made it around it with a couple taps on the bolt from the opposite side. Hope this helps!
hiss highness
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new sway bar links are 55 a pair on ebay, same price for front or rear, just did mine a couple weeks ago and put a little never-seize on the tapered part so it is easier to remove the next time, also put poly sway bar bushings in at the same time since the links were off
I regret not using a tape measure to check ride height.. previous pics are all I have to go with but I'm a little unimpressed with caps. If there is a difference it isnt visually noticeable. and it was a LOT of work for a novice in a residential garage.
Before:
Now:
these are the IPSCO lowering caps. maybe the suspension will settle a little but I was hoping for .75 inch drop as advertised.
Before:
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Now:
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these are the IPSCO lowering caps. maybe the suspension will settle a little but I was hoping for .75 inch drop as advertised.
SNKEBIT
Enthusiast
Have you moved the car? If not, the suspension is binding from being jacked up. Drive it around, it should settle in.
One thing that could contribute to the perceived lack of drop is tightening the coilover mounts with the wheels in the air . . . . proper procedure is to torque everything up with the suspension loaded. The easiest way to to do this in a garage setting is to put a jack beneath the brake rotor and raise the hub until the suspension travel stops and the car starts to rise off its jack stand. At that point, tighten the upper and lower mounting bolts to spec.
Everytime you jack up the car, it will have to be driven to settle the suspension back down.....Lowering caps are a great way to get tid of the huge fender gap. I did mine last year and it looks far better than stock.
So this is as soon as I was complete:
this is after it settled:
I'm satisfied. Did all the work myself which was gratifying and it was all under $100 total. Viper sits as it should from the factory now, might even sink a little lower when I put some fuel in it.. on E.. hope i make it to the gas station.
oh and A+ seller Grisoman..
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this is after it settled:
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I'm satisfied. Did all the work myself which was gratifying and it was all under $100 total. Viper sits as it should from the factory now, might even sink a little lower when I put some fuel in it.. on E.. hope i make it to the gas station.
oh and A+ seller Grisoman..
Looking fine, Jeff. Glad you were able to get most if done yourself (you wisely outsourced the cap installs). Nothing like the feeling of doing your own work. And thanks for the props . . . .
One thing that many folks miss when lowering the car is the proper loading of the suspension bushings. When a car is lowered, the upper and lower control arm bushing mounts must be untightened to let the car settle to the proper ride height, if you lower the car and do not do this then the bushings will bind up, causing a rough ride and damaging (tearing) the bushing.
With the suspension loaded, tighten the upper and lower control arm bushings and the upper and lower shock mounts. The car will sit lower, ride better and have less alignment change over time.
With the suspension loaded, tighten the upper and lower control arm bushings and the upper and lower shock mounts. The car will sit lower, ride better and have less alignment change over time.
there certainly wasnt a lot of play.
would you suggest going back and loosening each side and adding some load at this point? I'd be more comfortable putting a jack under there with the other 3 wheels on the ground... when I had it all suspended it was kind of nerve racking.
and as i'm sure you're aware.. these caps dont really lower it substantially.
How were you able to get the links off? remove sway bar?
i just took all mine off to replace cause they're bad. take the top nut off all of them, use a ball joint separator ($20 at harbor freight, best tool ever), then the sway bar will swing/pivot up and then you can repeat same steps for bottom and pull them out.
thanks man.
VIPER BAZ UK
Enthusiast
A1998
Enthusiast
What Caps did you use and where did you get them??? Would like to do the same to mine this winter
got these from a forum member here they are IPSCO lowering caps.
