Mushy clutch pedal Gen 4. Anyone else?

[VIPER GTSR 91]

Did a search but no luck. Car now has 500 miles and at about 350 miles the clutch pedal became very soft for about half the travel then feels normal the rest of the way down. Is this normal and anyone else have this scenario? Fluid is ok.

 

[EZ 2B Green]

Bleed the clutch and you should be fine. This has been necessary on several Gen 4's. It is no big deal.

 

[VIPER GTSR 91]

Bleed the clutch and you should be fine. This has been necessary on several Gen 4's. It is no big deal.

Excellent reply and thanks. I will have my tech do this under warranty of course. Amazing how I NEVER had any problems with my old GEN 2.

 

[Dan Cragin]

I have needed to bleed out a few 08-09's to correct this.

 

[VIPER GTSR 91]

I have needed to bleed out a few 08-09's to correct this.

Thanks Dan for your helpful replies.

 

[Viper X]

Funny, I've had more issues with my 2006 car's clutch not engaging correctly. Had to bleed it several times.

So far, the 2009 works perfectly.

Good luck,

Dan

 

[bluesrt]

ok----i want everybody to go bleed their clutch! now! stop this nonsense!

 

[daffyduck]

May be due to moisture in your clutch fluid.I read somewhere to use a turkey baster to **** out the old fluid,but leave a little bit in to cover the holes at the bottom.This way your not letting any air get in.They had to change the fluid on my 08 for this same symptoms.

 

[mcar00]

Did a search but no luck. Car now has 500 miles and at about 350 miles the clutch pedal became very soft for about half the travel then feels normal the rest of the way down. Is this normal and anyone else have this scenario? Fluid is ok.

I've got the same issue at 200 miles. Low clutch pedal that comes back if pumped a few times. Is this an easy DIY clutch bleed process? Hate to bring the car to the dealer. I guess it depends on where the bleed screw is located. Anyone know? Thanks.

 

[Kevan]

Is this an easy DIY clutch bleed process? Hate to bring the car to the dealer. I guess it depends on where the bleed screw is located. Anyone know? Thanks.

I'm actually doing this right now (taking a Pepsi break).
Would you like one of my DIY articles on it?
It's pretty damn easy on Gen.III and GenIV.

 

[F8L SNK]

The bleed screw is an 11mm fitting on the driver side of the transmission. It is located next to the stainless steel line that comes from the clutch master cylinder. So find the line going to the transmission and you should find the bleeder.

Most times repetitive cycling of the clutch pedal will clear the issue. Obviously bleeding it would be better. I have switched out my fluid to the motul 600 that I run in the brakes. I typically change the fluid after every track event. Not required, but I like to be safe with new fluids.

 

[Kevan]

As requested, a DIY article:

DIY: Clutch Bleeding - .:SRTConnection:.

I give expressed written consent for the VCA to use this article in their DIY section.

 

[mcar00]

Thanks a lot guys. Much appreciated!

 

[05SRT]

Isn't anybody a little bit irritated by the fact that you're having to bleed the clutch on your new car? I'm interested in the "Why" more than I am the "How". Any opinions?

 

[mcar00]

Most times repetitive cycling of the clutch pedal will clear the issue. Obviously bleeding it would be better. I have switched out my fluid to the motul 600 that I run in the brakes. I typically change the fluid after every track event. Not required, but I like to be safe with new fluids.

So are you saying eventually the air gets out of the system without bleeding? How does that happen? Anyone else have the problem just go away eventually?

Isn't anybody a little bit irritated by the fact that you're having to bleed the clutch on your new car? I'm interested in the "Why" more than I am the "How". Any opinions?

Sounds like a good question for the SRT engineers.

Thanks again for your input.

 

[F8L SNK]

That is exactly what I am saying. If you cycle your clutch at least 15 times, my guess you will have a good pedal feel again. I do believe it is best to bleed it however.

Kevan's DIY is good, but the viper is much harder to access the bleed screw. I actually cut an 11mm socket in half then ground down the two sides to get a wrench to fit on it. Then I put the bleed line with the cone fitting into the end to catch the fluid. Of course you will need someone in the car to cycle the pedal.

So are you saying eventually the air gets out of the system without bleeding? How does that happen? Anyone else have the problem just go away eventually?



Sounds like a good question for the SRT engineers.

Thanks again for your input.

 

[ViperGeorge]

Had the same problem on my 08. My Viper Tech spoke to factory. They believe that the clutches on some 08s were not bled properly at the factory. They also say you should use DOT 4 fluid, not the DOT 3 that is stated on the clutch reservoir cap. Apparently they may have used DOT 3 at the factory on some 08s. My 08 reservoir cap says use DOT 3 but my 06, I'm pretty sure, says use DOT 4.

 

[Kevan]

Thanks F8L!
I did it in about an hour, so....missed out on a few of the car specifics.
It figures the Viper cars are a tighter fit.

 

[Viper X]

A "mighty vac" works pretty well for this and helps keep you from spilling fluid all over.

Dan

 

[supersnake]

I have found that mine is the same, (soft 1/2 way down ) only when I cruise in town on hot days, Then hit the highway and get more air flow and the pedal is back to normal

 

[ViperGeorge]

To reiterate, the factory tech told my local Viper Tech to be sure to use Dot 4 fluid. It withstands higher temps. They said the factory may have used Dot 3. The cap is marked Dot 3 as well but you should use Dot 4.

 

[SkyBob]

As requested, a DIY article:

DIY: Clutch Bleeding - .:SRTConnection:.

I give expressed written consent for the VCA to use this article in their DIY section.

Now I konw why you haven't joined VCA. It's because you would have to come up with a new avatar. The one you're using at the other website probably wouldn't be accepted here.

Bob

 

[F8L SNK]

dot 4 is better no doubt, but it will not cause the issue people are having. On almost every case the car is a very low mileage (under 500 mi) and has not been driven hard. The difference between dot 3 and 4 in this case is not the issue. However, changing to the Dot 4 will necessitate a flush and refill which would remedy the issue indirectly.

Unless you are going to drive the car very hard most people would not be able to tell the difference between the two fluids.

To reiterate, the factory tech told my local Viper Tech to be sure to use Dot 4 fluid. It withstands higher temps. They said the factory may have used Dot 3. The cap is marked Dot 3 as well but you should use Dot 4.

 

[EZ 2B Green]

I had this problem within the first 100 miles. I bled the clutch and filled it with "Valvoline Synthetic DOT 3 & 4 brake fluid" (Yes, that's exactly what it says on the label). I had to bleed it on two occasions and I filled the resevoir up a few times on each occasion. After thinking about it, I wondered if the fluid type was the solution instead of assuming air was in the system (It did only act up when Hot). It must be mostly Valvoline in my system now vs. what the factory used. I can state that the Valvoline Synthetic DOT 3 & 4 brake fluid is completely compatible with whatever the factory fill was, and the clutch has been perfect since.

 

[Kevan]

Apologies to everyone:
I forgot to add the info about removing the rubber diaphragm inside the MC and the matching picture.
Updated soon.

A "mighty vac" works pretty well for this and helps keep you from spilling fluid all over.

Dan

I had limited success with a MityVac.
I'll do more testing tomorrow, and possibly add it to my DIY article depending on results.
Thanks go to Dave6666 and Dan Cragin at DC Performance for their help and insight regarding the MityVac Method.

Now I konw why you haven't joined VCA. It's because you would have to come up with a new avatar. The one you're using at the other website probably wouldn't be accepted here.

Bob

Heh heh...glad you liked it!
(BTW- It's not that I don't want to join the VCA; it's that I'm not allowed. Rules are rules.)

I can state that the Valvoline Synthetic DOT 3 & 4 brake fluid is completely compatible with whatever the factory fill was, and the clutch has been perfect since.

I too am running the Valvoline DOT 3/4 in my ride, with zero complaints. For daily driving and nothing too fierce, I believe it will be fine.
If you're racing, UPGRADE to a serious brake fluid. Something with a much higher boiling point (500ºF or more).

I'd *LOVE* to hear Fluid Jedi Tom on this subject.