Need help with 2008 ACR rotors

trackpak

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had a brake pedal vibration in my 2008 (car had accident and prolonged down time) on moderate-light street driving. Car has had 1 rack day 3 yrs ago. with car on lift it was shown to have a right rear interior gouge on rotor surface (so I'm thinking it needs a pair of rotors on rear). Is the stop tech rotor the same 355 x 32 aero rotor that is on base viper (PN right 31.737,1102.99 and left 31.737.1101.99)? these are only $240 for the rings. I can change these myself dealer wanted $4700+ to chg 4 rotors!!! am I wrong about pulling the car outta there? I know I'll have to inspect the pads to see if they're chunked out as well.

The inside right front rotor has some major deposits on it as well. I called stop tech and they thought that the deposit could be cleaned.

Can somebody help me with ACR rotor part #s and tell me if the rotors are same on all 4 corners on the '08 ACR? thx
 

Will at RSI

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Give me a call tomorrow and we can get you a set of rings on order. You can simply replace the rings and save $$$$.
 

ACRucrazy

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had a brake pedal vibration in my 2008 (car had accident and prolonged down time) on moderate-light street driving. Car has had 1 rack day 3 yrs ago. with car on lift it was shown to have a right rear interior gouge on rotor surface (so I'm thinking it needs a pair of rotors on rear). Is the stop tech rotor the same 355 x 32 aero rotor that is on base viper (PN right 31.737,1102.99 and left 31.737.1101.99)? these are only $240 for the rings. I can change these myself dealer wanted $4700+ to chg 4 rotors!!! am I wrong about pulling the car outta there? I know I'll have to inspect the pads to see if they're chunked out as well.

The inside right front rotor has some major deposits on it as well. I called stop tech and they thought that the deposit could be cleaned.

Can somebody help me with ACR rotor part #s and tell me if the rotors are same on all 4 corners on the '08 ACR? thx

The pricing you received is about right. OEM Mopar ACR rotors (gold hats) are about $1200 each.
The stoptech rotors (same ring, black hat) can he bad for about $800/pair

The rings can be had for much less as you found.
 

Flexx91

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You can save more $$$ by performing the labor yourself. Very easy to do as all you have to do is remove two (2) allen bolts on each caliper, then remove the rotors. Same thing for the rears with the exception of loosening the lower E-brake bolt to swing the E-brake caliper out of the way. Tighten the allen bolts to 85 ft-lbs.
 

Timnineside

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Dealer/manual says DO NOT replace just rings you must replace hat and rings. Anyone have any issues with just doing rings???
 

bluesrt

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just doing the rings are fine, i do it all the time on my trac car- just make shure you do replace the fastening bolt hardware, do not reuse them
 

TowDawg

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Replace the rings yourself and MAKE SURE to check your inner ebrake pads while you're doing it. There is a good possibility that the gouge on the inside of your rotor is from a worn out ebrake pad. Stupid, stupid design.
 
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trackpak

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Thx for all the replies. I finally found out from stoptech that these rings are the same as the generic 355 x 32 slotted Aero Rotors that I use on my z06. I've changed the rings 4-5 times and get about 10 track days out of the fronts. The car was hit on right side and that may have caused the gouge on inside of Rt rear rotor. Im just wondering about the right front it has a builup of probably brake material on inside. The viper tech asked me if the car sat undriven for a long time and it did. He thought that it could be that the pads got sort of attached to rotor or corroded to it.

For now what I plan to do is replace rear rings and inspect pads. Then take off right front rotor try to clean it with an emery cloth and inspect brake pads for chunking. new rings should be here today. Any suggestions on a quiet street only inexpensive pad for front? I'd even take some partially used ones

Does anyone have suggestions on how to clean rotor? I looked at ebrake while on lift there's one allen and one hex bolt, does anyone know the sizes and torque specs?

BTW having a very difficult time finding a shop that can do alignment due to front splitter even with 4 foot extension ramps that I made in step up sections. Anyone have thoughts about that? I know some race shops do alignments manually w/o the booth just can't find one that's available (performance Tech that ran the ALMS viper a few yrs back can do it but they're too busy racing now)
 

TowDawg

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As far as the alignment, I had the same problem with my race car. Even if I used my 8ft race ramps to clear the nose, I would high-center at the top when going onto the rack.
I found two ways around this.
1. Find an alignment shop with a pit instead of rack.
2. I actually backed my car onto my trailer, backed my trailer up to the alignment rack, then used my trailer ramps laid on top of the alignment rack ramps. After that, we just pushed the car from the trailer onto the rack.
 

Mambamike

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I have a set I would sell for 1,000 front and rear if anyone is interested

Green Viper ,,, which rotors do you have. I looking for a set as well..
 
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trackpak

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thx for offer but rings are only $516/pair shipped and !.5-2 hr per end of work
 
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trackpak

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anyone have some fotos and descriptions if I wanna remove the pads w/o the rotors? includ the tool sizes and Tq #s if u know them thx
 

Green viper 1

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Just need to remove the pins with a center punch very carefully and pull the pads out
 

BJG32

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Replace the rings yourself and MAKE SURE to check your inner ebrake pads while you're doing it. There is a good possibility that the gouge on the inside of your rotor is from a worn out ebrake pad. Stupid, stupid design.

Agreed.......
 
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anyone have some fotos and descriptions if I wanna remove the pads w/o the rotors? includ the tool sizes and Tq #s if u know them thx

As stated above small drift to push out (be sure they are fully seated when installing them again) and also when you push the pistons back into the bore to put in new pads open the bleeders and push out the old fluid rather then back through the system.
 
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trackpak

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Need to remove e brake on rears anyone have a photo of where fasteners are and sizes?
 
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trackpak

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Never mind I found the Allen and 15 mm bolt. E pads and full pads look good. Anyone know the torque settings?
 
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trackpak

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First foot shos inside of right front rotor where a deposit can be seen. I'd to try and clean it off and inspect pads, anyone have a suggestion on how to clean with what? The material looked like brake pad deposit and coils be slightly removed with hard finger nail pressure.

The second foto shos the gouge on inside rear after the hit, this rotor rind was changed out to the std 355 x 32 slotted aero rotor using same hat. The hat fit perfectly just have to mount it. Since I still have right side on jack stands to look at right front rotor as well.
 

MoparMap

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The deposits look somewhat similar to my car after getting it wet. The dust will collect and run with the water leaving streaks like that. Looks like there's a run that goes through the slot on the left pictures, which is why I would think it's not too big a deal. Maybe even just a scrub down with a rag might be enough? Possibly a damp rag to help loosen things up.
 
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trackpak

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I took off right front rotor and lightly steel willed the brake material off and found another gouge on the rotor. So I ordered another set of rings from th Motorsports $516 shipped. Rear set fit
Perfectly
 

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