Need some power steering help aaasssaaappp!!!!!!!

[TowDawg]

OK guys, I know there are threads on this and I'm working my through them, but time is a MAJOR issue on this, so hopefully someone can get me some info form the attached pics. I'm supposed to be at the track next weekend, and I really like to have this fixed before I go. That's why I need some help so fast, so I can order the right parts, get them here, and get them put on by next Thursday.

Basically, I noticed a long fluid trail along the driver's side underneath the car when I was changing the diff fluid the other night. I have no idea how much actual fluid it was, because I'm sure the air from the last weekend at the track can make a little cover a large area. When I looked from underneath the car, I could see fluid droplets on the lower AC hose and pulley area on the front of the engine on the driver's side. Looking from the top, I could see areas of "muck" where the fluid looked like it had been thrown from a spinning pulley. Like I said though, it was grungy with dirt and crap in it. Moist, but not fresh, liquid fluid. I cleaned everything up really well (top and bottom) and after it dried, I put baby powder all over the area and went for a long, spirited drive.

The fluid is coming from what looks like some kind of ball-valve. I have no idea if it is part of the motor casting or what it's even for. I would assume it's there to allow pressure to be released (why put a ball valve where nothing hooks to it), but maybe the seals in it have gone bad and it's not holding the pressure anymore?
There is a high-pressure hard line that comes into the top side of the motor/pulley (which isn't leaking), but this leaking valve seems to be down below where the hard line comes in. I wish I could draw arrows on the pics on this computer, but I can't figure out how to.

Anyway, please take a look at the pics and let me know:
What this thing is for?
Is there a part number to replace just it?
Is it part of the entire power steering motor/pump?

I just need to what to buy and replace ASAP. Thanks for any help!

 

[TowDawg]

A couple of more pics.

I have no idea why this site like to flip some of pics, but the last two below are flipped sideways. That hose with the hard line should be coming from the top of the pics.

 

[Allan]

It's hard for me to see in the pics, but that looks like a plug in the P/S pump body that is leaking. (they use steel balls for plugs on some of that stuff.) The fix is just to replace the pump. there isn't a way to remove and re-seal or relace the plug.

 

[Allan]

........If you do the pump replacement, get the pressure line from the pump to the fan also. You need to order an extra fitting for one end of the new line. The oem replacement line only comes with one fitting and it needs two. The pump is serviced without the reservoir as well. no need to replace the reservoir unless it's damaged or you damage it while working on the car. ....I'm on my 3rd pump and 4th line, .

 

[B SNAKE 1]

looks like a plastic ps pulley get rid of that too!

 

[Tiago]

replace the PS pump , I just had to do this also, I did not replace the fan line as said above, just put it back together, runs good

 

[TowDawg]

So you can't replace the pump assy and reuse the line that's on there?
Do you take off the pulley and reuse it, or does a new one come with new pump?
Just need to make sure I get everything in one shot.
I hope one of my local dealerships has it all, so I don't have to pay for next day air shipping since it will be Monday before I can order it. Ringgold Dodge is close to me, so they might be my best bet.

 

[AZTVR]

So you can't replace the pump assy and reuse the line that's on there?

I can't speak to the SRT-10. I undertstand why the line replacement is being recommended. I thin that because I moved my PS pump to replace the pulley (Gen 2), the high pressure line sprung a leak about 6 months later. I noticed the line leak at the track. I was lucky that it was slow enough not to ruin my track weekend. What would you pay to not be bothered with that kind of leak at the track in the future? You know, now that it has been mentioned, if you don't do it, it will definitely fail !

 

[Allan]

The genIII pulleys are steel not plastic. Requires puller and installer to change. Reuse the pulley unless it's bent or you damage it working on the car. The 'crack' in the pulley is normal, they all look like that. All late model Chrysler/Jeep vehicles that use the steel pulley are like that. If you don't replace the line you will be replacing the line soon after. It's OK right now, but when you disturb it, turning the fitting back and forth to change the pump, it will leak soon after. -don't ask how I know.

 

[Allan]

The P/S pump and pressure line is the only thing that kinda ***** about the genIII cars. The rest of the car seems pretty killer. I did blow up a rear differential, but that was my fault not the car's. The engine oil cooler lines are almost a once a year deal for me as well. And for some reason, tires just don't seem to last very long at all. I just can't figure that one out............

 

[Allan]

As for parts availability, the pump should be a stocking item for most Dodge dealers as it fits some other vehicles. The pressure line is Viper specific -genIII only. The extra fitting as well. .........***** I know. I've been in your shoes before a track day. .......

 

[Allan]

One of the most difficult things in life, is starting the threads of the p/s line connection to the cooling fan motor. It has a mind of it's own, and it has every intention of cross-threading. Very hard to overcome. I almost needed therapy after each time changing the line.

 

[TowDawg]

Dammit Allan! Quit telling me about your problems!

Seriously though, so I need a new pump and line with the extra fitting. That's easy enough I guess, but what scares me is your comment about a puller and installer. So when I get a new pump, I need to pull the pulley off the current one and put it on the new one? And I need a special tool for that? I guess you've figured from my other posts that I prefer to do the work myself, and I see a couple of bolts to take off the current pump, which seem easy enough, but your comments on the pulley have me a little worried.

 

[Allan]

Yes, the pump has only 3 mounting bolts. You can get to them with a deep socket through the holes in the pulley, but I've found that it's easier to deal with the pressure line connection if the pulley is removed first and installed last. Buy a good puller and installer tool set, this won't be the last time you will use it.-don't ask how I know. (the Viper's pulley seems a little tougher to pull than other cars, so I would be afraid to use a cheap/discount type tool on it. The car will break the tool.) Also, if you R/R the pulley in the car, the car holds the pump for you while you do the job. (instead of flopping it around, struggling with it on a bench. not a good idea to put the new pump in a vise to hold it either) The pulley is held on by interference fit only (6lbs in a 5lb bag). No bolt, no keyway, no taper, no thread, just crush. and it is full blast tight on there! For other cars, when you get a reman pump from the parts store, they come with a 3/8 bolt and nut/washer to use as an installer.(the pumpshafts are theaded inside to accomodate an install tool -do not hammer or press the pulley on, it will destroy the new pump -obviously) The stupid bolt/nut deal will not install the Viper pulley. It is really a tight fit. -the popping and cracking noises while you are doing it are OK. thats due to how tight it is. Look at the location of the pulley on the shaft before you begin. that is where it needs to be when your done. Should be exactly flush with the pumpshaft. There isn't anything to stop the pulley from going on too far, if you overinstall it, pull it back off until flush with the shaft. (hassle). Close only counts in horseshoes. .......When you get the pump off then you need to deal with swapping the reservoir. Should be able to figure that out, small screwdriver and hammer for the retainers. The pump comes with new ones. Don't put the O-ring pilot sleeve in backwards or you'll have fluid everywhere at the track (if you make it that far). Oh yeah...good luck. -you can do this yourself. it's just a little different than body panels. -Allan

 

[steve911]

When you seperate the pump from the resevoir there is an o-ring that connects the two together get that O-ring also. I am on my 3 rd pump and each change I just replaced the o-ring on the tube fittings...

 

[Viper Specialty]

If your line is not leaking, do NOT replace it. There is a bad batch of fittings coming from Mopar these days, and they cause 10x more problems than the old ones. Replace the pump and line fitting lower O-Ring, and be done with it.

 

[ViperGeorge]

A later engineering mod eliminated the "crack" in the pulley. Later one looks solid compared to original. Chrysler does recommend you replace the pulley when you change the pump. I suppose the pulley, given it is friction fit, could get loose if you constantly put in on and off.

 

[Sonoman]

One of the most difficult things in life, is starting the threads of the p/s line connection to the cooling fan motor. It has a mind of it's own, and it has every intention of cross-threading. Very hard to overcome. I almost needed therapy after each time changing the line.

Hah, I'm not the only one that had this problem. Phew, misery loves company, and I think I scorched the walls of my garage with some choice words getting that lower fitting started cleanly. In retrospect, I would have taken off the front splash guard and done it from underneath the car, possibly.

Watch out for new "quick-disconnect" fittings from Mopar-- I've seen two bad ones from two different parts suppliers. The inner retaining ring C-clip is thinner, shorter, and almost black in color, compared with a good fitting which has a copper retaining ring that is uniformly rectangular in its cross section, doesn't taper or come to a point on the ends. If this clip fails it is tow truck time.

 

[TowDawg]

Got it all back together. Honestly, it was a whole easier than I thought. The only real pain was getting the pressure line started back into the pump.

I just need to put the belt back on and get it all full and hope I don't see any fluid coming out of anywhere. lol

Thanks for all the help, and if I do see fluid tomorrow, I'll be back on here asking for more!

 

[TowDawg]

No leaks! I cycled it through a bunch of times and went for a decent drive and everything is still bone dry. It started storming while I was out, so I cut it a little short. I'll take it out tomorrow for a longer, harder drive to make sure everything is 100%, but I feel pretty good about it.

Now all I need is for God to step in and make the weather better than what the forecast says for next weekend. Road Atlanta in the rain isn't something I'm really excited about.

 

[TowDawg]

Just got back from a long drive and pushing the car a good bit. NO LEAKS!!!

And it looks like God helped me with the forecast as well. Partly cloudy with only 20% chance of rain and a high in the mid 80's on Sat and Sun now.

 

[Allan]

Glad to hear you got it together. Good luck at the track.