Need Tips on Changing Pads & Rotors

Hissses

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New here and yes I am working on picture. Going to install EPC Green pads and new Eradispeed rotors on my 97GTS. Any tips and tricks would be appreciated. Thanks to the Forum for all the posts that got me my viper! Now the fun really begins (or is it the learning as this is my first none ford product) again Thanks

Ps I did a search and found out about needle nose pliers for rear seams same as mustang cobra.
 

GTS Dean

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You will need a 1/8" drift punch and a small hammer to R&R the front pads. Remove the retainer pins from the outside. When reinstalling, make sure they are firmly seated in the caliper from behind. Remove the first pad, then turn it 90 degrees and insert it far enough that the edge of the backing plate will contact both pistons simultaneously. Use the OD of the rotor as a fulcrum and force the pistons to retract using the palm of your hand. Install a new pad and do the same thing on the opposite side of the rotor. When both sides of the car are done, pull the new pads out and remove the calipers.

First, remove the 15mm bolt that holds the brake line support bracket to the steering knuckle. Next, remove the 2 18mm bolts that hold the caliper to the knuckle. Hang the caliper with a wire, string, tie-wrap, etc. NOT BY THE BRAKE HOSE. Slip the rotor off, and install your new ones. Follow the manufacturers instructions on rotor prep. Reinstall the bolts - 18mm torque to 85 lb-ft. 15mm hub retainer torques to 45 lb-ft. Install pads and anti-rattle spring.

**Press the brake pedal several times until you get the pistons back out against the pads.**

Rear pad retainer pins remove from the inboard side. Take note of how the springs go back in before they go "p-toinnggg" when you pull the pins. Grab the rotor and caliper with both hands at 3 and 9 o'clock and move them around vigorously. The old pads should practically fall out. Slide the caliper in and out on its guide pins, then gently angle the rotor to remove it from the studs. Use your needle nosed pliers to screw the pistons back into the caliper. Reinstall the rotor and new pads. Install the anti-rattle spring carefully (it's a problem) and seat the retainer pins fully. Pump the brakes to re-engage the pistons to the pads.

Now do a full brake bleed with new Motul 600 fluid. Start with right rear, left rear, right front (*both sides of the caliper*) and finish with the left front (both sides of the caliper.) Keep an eye on the reservoir while bleeding and don't let it go dry.

Bed the pads and burnish the rotors according to manufacturer's recommendations.
 
OP
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Hissses

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GTS Dean,
Thanks for the advise, other than caliper slide grease. Do you recommend anything between the pads and the pistons, did not see anything in the EPC box as to recommendations or as to bedding the pads. Baer has a full sheet on bedding the rotors.
With my new toy being almost 5 I was going to flush the brake system. you suggested Motul 600 fluid, have not heard of it, was going to use Dot 3? Just a Street car no track use planned.
 

GTS Dean

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I never put anything between the pads and pistons.

Motul is only slightly more expensive than most DOT 3 fluids and has much better performance properties. You can find it at many auto parts chain stores, but EVERY motorcycle shop you walk into will have it on the shelf.
 

IMSOSLO

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Michael,

I am just up the road from you in Ramona. I have changed my brakes dozens of times from street to track pads and back. If you run into any problems or just want to get some help the first time shoot me an email. I would be happy to give you a hand.

Good luck,

Ken
 

Chuck 98 RT/10

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by hissses:
was going to use Dot 3
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Manual recommends Dot4. Motul is only needed for tracking, which you will not be doing with EBC greens. I don't have as much luck finding Motul as Dean does.
 

AJT

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If you are using an impact wrench or any deep socket, wrap the outside of the socket with green felt (Home Depot, used to put under nick nacs to keep from scratching tables). Let the felt "hang" off the edge of the socket about 1/8", this will keep you from scratching your rims up.

Andy
 

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