Needing to replace the throughout bearing

[FATHERFORD]

Only flaw I can find with the new viper is the t/o bearing rattles some. From what I can read, I can just replace the bearing and keep the slave cylinder. My question is this. In the service manual it states that the u-joint bolts on the driveshaft need to be replaced after disasembly.

Truth to this? Is this a neccesary step?

Thanks,
Justin

 

[dave6666]

You should replace the straps as the manual states. They are cheap. Some say the T/O bearing is separable from the slave. The manual says it is not. I replaced mine as a unit. Plus, next week you'll have a hydraulic leak and get to do it again. Put a $165.00 ebay clutch kit in too. I did my clutch about 3 months after the slave. Because I didn't want to do the clutch while doing the slave...

Where in Texas are you?

Also...

Your rattle could be the pilot bearing or something astray with the pressure plate or clutch disk. You know the noise better than us right now, but depending on the miles on this car, do it all, do it once.

 

[FATHERFORD]

You should replace the straps as the manual states. They are cheap. Some say the T/O bearing is separable from the slave. The manual says it is not. I replaced mine as a unit. Plus, next week you'll have a hydraulic leak and get to do it again. Put a $165.00 ebay clutch kit in too. I did my clutch about 3 months after the slave. Because I didn't want to do the clutch while doing the slave...

Where in Texas are you?

Also...

Your rattle could be the pilot bearing or something astray with the pressure plate or clutch disk. You know the noise better than us right now, but depending on the miles on this car, do it all, do it once.

Pretty sure it's a t/o bearing. When I press in the clutch the rattle goes away. I'll check everything else while i'm there. I have no idea what all is done to the car. This will be a good chance for me to find out. Guess I'll just go ahead and replace the slave while I'm at it.

I'm in Houston/Katy/Waco

 

[Bob D]

Sounds like neutral gear rattle.

 

[dave6666]

Check with one of the vendors here at the forum for the slave/TO assy. Tator's Dodge and Parts Rack are good to get to know, and have lots of advice for their customers.

The ebay clutch kits for $165 are the ticket. The alignment tool won't be correct, but I bought a metal one made by KD Tools and it worked great. Also, the pilot bearing in the ebay kit is solid steel versus the OEM roller type. I bought the OE roller one from Dodge for like $15 more.

You'll need a puller for the pilot bearing. You can maybe get one from Auto Zone from their rental shelf.

There's a little forked tool you'll need for the clutch hydraulic line to undo it from the slave. I think it's better known as a Ford Explorer tool.

 

[dave6666]

Sounds like neutral gear rattle.

I've got that. But it ain't rattle, it's a knock. And only on decel/accel milking it and bucking my way around corners and such.

Yeah, I know. Mash the gas more Dave and it goes away.

 

[FATHERFORD]

Check with one of the vendors here at the forum for the slave/TO assy. Tator's Dodge and Parts Rack are good to get to know, and have lots of advice for their customers.

The ebay clutch kits for $165 are the ticket. The alignment tool won't be correct, but I bought a metal one made by KD Tools and it worked great. Also, the pilot bearing in the ebay kit is solid steel versus the OEM roller type. I bought the OE roller one from Dodge for like $15 more.

You'll need a puller for the pilot bearing. You can maybe get one from Auto Zone from their rental shelf.

There's a little forked tool you'll need for the clutch hydraulic line to undo it from the slave. I think it's better known as a Ford Explorer tool.

My dad is an instructor at a college that has a dodge program. I think he can get parts "at cost". If that's the case I got hooked up in that case If not I'm checking out the vendors for sure. I just joined the VCA today.

I'm still going to hold out on the clutch setup. This car might already have aftermarket one in it. I wish there was a way I could figure out who the old owner was. The viper was registered in new Mexico. Guy traded it and his 03 cobra in on a Roush Track car at Grand Prairie ford.

I should have all the tools for the job. Only thing I'm not sure is what this "ford explorer" tool is. I'm sure my dad or I have one laying around somewhere in his shop. Seems like everyday we find tools we forgot we had

Sounds like neutral gear rattle.

Even while driving though in gear I seem to hear it slightly. Could it still be this neutral gear rattle? I need to meet some local viper owners. The ones at my dad's shop virtually have no miles on them so they don't have the typical "wear" even a low mileage viper has.


I have always been a praiser, 'If it ain't broke, don't fix it'. So if that still sounds like the same rattle, then I wont fix. LOL

I've got that. But it ain't rattle, it's a knock. And only on decel/accel milking it and bucking my way around corners and such.

Yeah, I know. Mash the gas more Dave and it goes away.

I got that knock also when just going around corners at to low and rpm speed. I know that's "normal".

I don't guess there are any how-to pictures on this job? Apparently the manual says it takes 3 hours, charge 4.5? Believe that is what my father told me his book said. Just be nice to see pictures this first go around.

Thanks,
Justin

 

[Bob D]

What year is your Viper?

 

[FATHERFORD]

What year is your Viper?

97 GTS. Has 21k miles on it.

 

[dave6666]

It sounds like you have a lift available - Dad's shop?

Clutch tool...

LuK Automotive Systems - Tools

It is really an easy job. I do it with the car just 10" off the ground on Race Ramps and jack stands. You'll need a 36" long extension for some of the tranny bolts (really!), but other than that, pretty straight forward.

-> Drop driveshaft.
-> Drop crossmember.
-> Remove inspection plate.
-> Undo neutral lockout, CAGS connector wiring. There also may be a speed sensor connector.
-> Undo hydraulic line.
-> Undo shifter on top. Made special bent 18mm wrench for this. Lemme know if you want a pic of it.
-> Remove tranny bolts from back side of clutch bell housing and pull back on tranny.

That is of course the simple version. Lots of wiggling, support jacks, checking to make sure you aren't crushing anything in the tunnel. And to do both the clutch and slave I never dropped the tranny out of the tunnel. Just slid it back. Plenty of room to work.

 

[dave6666]

97 GTS. Has 21k miles on it.

Did the clutch in my '01 with about the same miles. If you find it to be the OE one, replace it while it's apart...

 

[FATHERFORD]

It sounds like you have a lift available - Dad's shop?

Clutch tool...

LuK Automotive Systems - Tools

It is really an easy job. I do it with the car just 10" off the ground on Race Ramps and jack stands. You'll need a 36" long extension for some of the tranny bolts (really!), but other than that, pretty straight forward.

-> Drop driveshaft.
-> Drop crossmember.
-> Remove inspection plate.
-> Undo neutral lockout, CAGS connector wiring. There also may be a speed sensor connector.
-> Undo hydraulic line.
-> Undo shifter on top. Made special bent 18mm wrench for this. Lemme know if you want a pic of it.
-> Remove tranny bolts from back side of clutch bell housing and pull back on tranny.

That is of course the simple version. Lots of wiggling, support jacks, checking to make sure you aren't crushing anything in the tunnel. And to do both the clutch and slave I never dropped the tranny out of the tunnel. Just slid it back. Plenty of room to work.

I'll have access to a lift and tranny jack. Got a few of those 3" extensions also. They are life savers. This sounds like it's just as easy as a mustang for the most part.

If you don't mind, can you post of picture of this 18mm wrench? I'll go buy harbor freight and pick up a cheapy to modify.

Thanks again.

 

[Bob D]

I think Dodge switched to a different lube in 98. It may still have the original lube. I would change it to the newer Dodge product or Castrol Syntorq 75W85 which is the same thing. It will help the rattle a lot.

 

[FATHERFORD]

I think Dodge switched to a different lube in 98. It may still have the original lube. I would change it to the newer Dodge product or Castrol Syntorq 75W85 which is the same thing. It will help the rattle a lot.

I'll make sure and do that at the same time then.

Thanks

 

[dave6666]

Here's the ebay clutch deal. Check back 2nite and I'll get the pic of my 18mm custom wrench up.

eBay Motors: VIPER DODGE GENUINE 92 - 03 LUK NEW CLUTCH KIT (item 160199518552 end time Jan-26-08 08:37:20 PST)

 

[FATHERFORD]

Here's the ebay clutch deal. Check back 2nite and I'll get the pic of my 18mm custom wrench up.

eBay Motors: VIPER DODGE GENUINE 92 - 03 LUK NEW CLUTCH KIT (item 160199518552 end time Jan-26-08 08:37:20 PST)

Thanks you have been a big help.

 

[dave6666]

The shifter attachment was very tight the first time I did it, and I didn't have my custom wrench at that moment. I had it by the time I put it back in. And when I took it out again to put in the clutch I should have put in when I did the slave... The manual recommends a crows foot. I hate crows feet.

If your wrench flats don't line up with the tunnel on the shifter handle then you might also have to put a twist in the head. Mine did not require that.

You can see the open end bent more than the box end bend. 45 deg versus 40 deg. I think I even still clamped some vise grips on the wrench too for leverage. That one item - removing the shifter - is less than the hi-light of the project.

An alternative is to pull the interior console panels, drill out the rubber shifter boot rivets (below the leather boot), and then install rivet nuts. Access from the top then! With a crows foot...

You must be registered for see images

You must be registered for see images

You must be registered for see images

You must be registered for see images

 

[FATHERFORD]

Thanks for the pics.

If i can get all the parts in this weekend I'll tackle this.

 

[Qualitywires.com]

It's Netrual gear rattle you got there. The harmonics of the V-10 cause the tranny to rattle and that is why the new tranny oil will help reduce that noise.

 

[FATHERFORD]

Just would like to report back and confirm that it was the Netrual gear rattle. Even if I lightly press on the clutch it's still there so it cant be the T/O bearing.

Thanks everyone for the help. At of all my experiences working at a speed shop(mustangs/fbodys/vettes) I never came across something like this. Guess it's one of the many things I still have to learn about vipers.

 

[dave6666]

Just would like to report back and confirm that it was the Netrual gear rattle. Even if I lightly press on the clutch it's still there so it cant be the T/O bearing.

Thanks everyone for the help. At of all my experiences working at a speed shop(mustangs/fbodys/vettes) I never came across something like this. Guess it's one of the many things I still have to learn about vipers.

I can't think of a better way to bond with your Viper than to yank the transmission. And you passed.

Tch tch...

 

[mercury51]

it is the t/bearing.if you are going that far, replace the p/bearing ,clutch ,p/plate and slave cyl.auto zone has all the parts ,it is the oem LUK parts. just did the job $478.00 out the door.


bill

 

[Joseph Houss]

NGR

Neutral Gear Rattle

Before you change ANYTHING.... search the archives for this absolutely acceptable noise!