New Record for Cracking Rotors

[Camfab]

I've used alot of stock rotors, cryo'd and not. I'm searching for the best combination for performance and life. So far cryo-treated OEM wins, but on my car the life is still unacceptable.

Are you suggesting that we all just stick with the OEM solution for everything. I guess I should lose the headers, and 1.7 rockers. Anybody got a set of heads that flows 220? I'll trade you even for my 300 CFM heads. I guess I won't need those big throttle bodies and, come to think of it, if anybody needs an AEM I'll trade you even for a stock PCM.....

Drumrboy, yea I was going over the top!, but it seems lately many of the so called upgrades are rearing their ugly heads. Trust me, I've got plenty of aftermarket on my car, including Striker heads, headers and the rest. I think you've got to run a fine line with this stuff, a balance so to speak between increased performance and a reduction in reliability. Your aftermarket rotor is a perfect example of no increase in performance, with seriously compromised materials which honestly could risk your life as well as others. I think all of those rotors should be on a banned list of so called upgrades at the track. It's only a matter of time that someone is going to kill somebody on the track. Except for a few select members most Viper owners had not really tracked their vehicles with these components. As the Vipers value sinks to new Honda Civic territory you will see these cars experience a whole new set of issues as they will get put through the mill with many Pep Boys goodies. If it did'nt require hacking up my stock spindles' I'd put Dave's big brake kit on in a minute. OEM reliability and proven braking performance. I'm not sure if you've driven a GEN III or not, but braking is night and day different. Thank you for showing us your rotors as you've done a service to others in the Viper community.

 

[Dom426h]

I was riding down the highway yesterday and one of my PS2's blew out. No apparent reason.

Attn: BLACKLIST the PS2's as they are not safe for Anyone because of my 1 experience that i would like to ignorantly convince people is the norm.





no i didnt blow out a tire, but did you get the point?

I would Bet that the OP had a bad apple, and could not replicate the prob with another batch. Maybe it was opperator error with installing the air deflectors like someone mentioned. Then again maybe im wrong and these rotors are crap

 

[Camfab]

The rotors ARE crap!

 

[DrumrBoy]

I have access to the Comp Coupe brake duct kit and can help you get it. They are $450is and are carbon. Definitely worth the price though for correct cooling.

Thanks for mentioning. This is probably what i need to do for cooling. Let me call you after the holidays (wifey has me on a car-spending lock down until january).

CamFab - no worries, thanks for the info. I've always found this board an excellent source of information....and a diversity of opinions. throw a question out there and more often than not you get a few key facts and a bunch of experienced-based opinions with which to work. I'll report back in March (track events in feb and March, both tracks are ******* brakes) on what the results of my next trial are.

 

[FrankBarba]

Sometimes OEM is OK....Plenty of Combos that you can use with the OEM Rotors. Porterfieild, Hawks (as you stated), Performance Friction...The Comp Coupes are running OEM Rotors with Mintex pads....

 

[dave6666]

The rotors ARE crap!

This does not sound good for the EBC rotor sales personnel.

 

[CCBrian]

Here is my 2 cents worth. Either step up and pay big money for something like Brembo 2 piece...because they STOP...I have them on my Comp Coupe, or go the OEM route. Lets see, Dodge spent millions on designing an OEM product that runs just fine on a Comp Coupe...a little heavy but cheap and bullet proof. Everyone runs out and buys an aftermarktet part that looks good and runs fine until you actually drive the car hard...those rotors, if not defective, probably would have been fine on a street car or slow HPDE driver, but worked hard...see what happened? I have over 40 hours of RACING on my Comp Coupe and my Brembo rotors and still have no cracks...nada. I am replacing over the winter just to be safe but a visual inspection says they are just fine. Buy cheap and buy twice...which never works on a race car or track day car.It amazes me how much everyone spends to make the car go fast but nothing on brakes. Brakes will win a race (on a track) over horsepower anyday of the week and get you home to your family safe with the car in one piece. Every car I have beat racing was not due to horsepower or corning-it was out braking them into a turn.I always tell the kids who ask me about my cars which upgrade I did first...and since I was young...it was brakes first...not headers, carb (ECU these days), cam etc. It doesn't matter how fast your car is if you cannot stop even better.Please-be safe!

 

[michaelnouri]

oem is brembo one piece, so oem is pretyy high quality stuff in this case, if you are going to upgrade, stay with oem brand,
brembohttp://www.brembo.com/CatalogoHPGT/DetailPages/disc.aspx?id=101.8001A&idLingua=1

You must be registered for see images

http://www.brembo.com/CatalogoHPGT/DetailPages/disc.aspx?id=101.8001A&idLingua=1

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

Here is my 2 cents worth. Either step up and pay big money for something like Brembo 2 piece...because they STOP...I have them on my Comp Coupe, or go the OEM route. Lets see, Dodge spent millions on designing an OEM product that runs just fine on a Comp Coupe...a little heavy but cheap and bullet proof. Everyone runs out and buys an aftermarktet part that looks good and runs fine until you actually drive the car hard...those rotors, if not defective, probably would have been fine on a street car or slow HPDE driver, but worked hard...see what happened? I have over 40 hours of RACING on my Comp Coupe and my Brembo rotors and still have no cracks...nada. I am replacing over the winter just to be safe but a visual inspection says they are just fine. Buy cheap and buy twice...which never works on a race car or track day car.It amazes me how much everyone spends to make the car go fast but nothing on brakes. Brakes will win a race (on a track) over horsepower anyday of the week and get you home to your family safe with the car in one piece. Every car I have beat racing was not due to horsepower or corning-it was out braking them into a turn.I always tell the kids who ask me about my cars which upgrade I did first...and since I was young...it was brakes first...not headers, carb (ECU these days), cam etc. It doesn't matter how fast your car is if you cannot stop even better.Please-be safe!

I think long ago there was a "finding" that the OEM front rotors (Gen 1, 2) were from a Ford pickup, with 6 holes for Dodge instead of 5 for Ford. That is a different kind of "R&D", but one that works well. That said, I will plagiarize your comment (a form of flattery) and say I am also amazed how much everyone spends to make a Viper go faster but nothing on marginal OEM brakes.

 

[REDSLED]

Colemanracing.com - The best racing products.

Send them a stock rotor and they will make you a nice racing alternative.
I've been using this company for several years with no issues.

 

[0260in3]

I use the EBC sport drilled/slotted rotors with Brakeman 3's. I thought they used to hold up pretty well. Now that I've gotten faster and am harder on the brakes I get about one weekend out of my front rotors before they start cracking. The rears last a little longer. Once I use up my current alotment I may go back to stock rotors to see if there's a difference. I too, use the ground scraping air deflectors, which at least seem to keep my fluid from boiling so often.

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

Most 1-piece rotors have vanes as well. Hell, the $25 rotors on my C5 have directional vanes.

GenI and II all had pegs for stock. Not sure about GenIII and obviously the ACR has vanes.