New tires warning

[Paul Hawker]

For those puting on fresh tires, I was informed by a tire mounting specialist that he has often seen high horsepower cars spin freshly mounted tires on their rims and needing to be rebalanced.

Suggested that it takes 24-48 hours for the rims to firmly seat on the tires as the tire mounting solutions need to dry a bit and set up to prevent them from spinning on the rims.

Just a word for the wise, as most of us wish to put the power down immediately to see how the new tires hook up.

Says the patience is well rewarded.

 

[uvbnbit]

Stopping too hard, too quick can cause it too.

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

As part of my job, I monitor vehicle parameters during the Federal Test Procedure. This test not only certifies a vehicle for emissions compliance, but generates the city and highway fuel economy numbers. To see what might be important during this test, we used infrared temperature sensors to watch things like bearing temperatures. For fun, we watched tire tread temperatures, too.

The Highway Fuel Economy Cycle looks like this: http://www.epa.gov/nvfel/methods/hwfetdds.gif

The only time the tire temperatures spike up, and it is by a significant amount, is under the last braking of the test. I don't know if that means the tires will spin on the wheel, but it does tell me that you can put much more heat into tires by braking hard than any other maneuver.

 

[Big Al]

Tires will spin even on a low hp car such as Miata, had it happen to me a couple of years ago.

 

[TrackAire]

As part of my job, I monitor vehicle parameters during the Federal Test Procedure. This test not only certifies a vehicle for emissions compliance, but generates the city and highway fuel economy numbers. To see what might be important during this test, we used infrared temperature sensors to watch things like bearing temperatures. For fun, we watched tire tread temperatures, too.

The Highway Fuel Economy Cycle looks like this: http://www.epa.gov/nvfel/methods/hwfetdds.gif

The only time the tire temperatures spike up, and it is by a significant amount, is under the last braking of the test. I don't know if that means the tires will spin on the wheel, but it does tell me that you can put much more heat into tires by braking hard than any other maneuver.

I just finished a 4 day driving course at Bondurant and they told us not to weave the cars left and right to heat up the tires, just accelerate and brake hard over and over to get to the desired temps.

You can also mark the tire with a small dot from a Sharpie by the valve stem to determine if the tire is walking on the rim. Biggest problem we've seen cause this when the tire is mounted, sometimes the techs use too much tire lube for the mounting process.

Cheers,
George

 

[plumcrazy]

You can also mark the tire with a small dot from a Sharpie by the valve stem to determine if the tire is walking on the rim. Biggest problem we've seen cause this when the tire is mounted, sometimes the techs use too much tire lube for the mounting process.

Cheers,
George

high HP cars will do this all the time. it is good practice though to test and see.

 

[TrackAire]

Dang, I forgot to mention that I think there is a product on the market that you use when re-mounting the tire to help keep it from moving on the rim. IIRC it is a liquid that sorta just glues the tire in place with a little more grip than not running anything at all. When I get back to work on Tues I'll look up my files to see if I can get some info on it.

Cheers,
George

 

[VIPER GTSR 91]

I just finished a 4 day driving course at Bondurant and they told us not to weave the cars left and right to heat up the tires, just accelerate and brake hard over and over to get to the desired temps.

You can also mark the tire with a small dot from a Sharpie by the valve stem to determine if the tire is walking on the rim. Biggest problem we've seen cause this when the tire is mounted, sometimes the techs use too much tire lube for the mounting process.

Cheers,
George

Very true and the reason for weaving is on slicks to rid the marbles or clean the tires.

 

[LittleFish]

thanks for the info, I learn something new everyday.........plus, I should have new tires in about 2 weeks.

 

[GTS Dean]

Because you can pull more G's in braking than you can in acceleration, the tires are worked harder and generate more heat. Radiant heat off the discs raises the wheel and tire temperatures as well.

 

[Dom426h]

I just finished a 4 day driving course at Bondurant and they told us not to weave the cars left and right to heat up the tires, just accelerate and brake hard over and over to get to the desired temps.

Sounds like a waste of fuel to me.
Please do not do this at a trackday if traffic is behind you.
Just take ateasy the first couple laps to gradually bring the tires and brake system up to temp, Then proceed with hot laps


Marking freshly mounted tires is a good idea if you drive aggessivly and are concerned about spinning a tire on the wheel.

 

[Bill Pemberton Woodhouse]

Likely the main reason at Bondurant and other schools telling students not to do this is that is can be a bit dangerous for the novice driver. I have seen numerous folks go off the track trying this manuever , and yes with a street tire is has little benefit. I would say , though , that with the DOT race tires , depending on the track and conditions, there are times it is quite beneficial. You need to be able to go fast enough to generate some load on the tires , so if one is just doing this at a low speed attempt , it pretty much will only assist in scrubbing off some clagg buildup. Would also totally agree with Tom that the most heat is generated under heavy braking , hence the reason alot of folks will drag the brakes on a pace lap, besides just braking deeply after and acceleration burst.

 

[TrackAire]

Talked to one of our go to people that work in the tire industry. He sent me the following link. http://marktg.toyotires.com/file/rimslip.pdf

Very often, tire techs put way too much lube on the tire and or rim, this makes their job easier, but with todays modern mounting equipment it really isn't needed. Personally, I would seat the bead dry. If some lube is needed, I've used Windex as a very light lube and it evaporates very quickly.

Another thing he said should be done on new tires is to clean the bead area to make sure it is free of mold release agent (very slick and slippery). There are tire "rubber cleaners" that are used to clean the interior when applying a patch. He said that you just need to clean the outside part of the tire bead....he has used carb cleaner for this and has had good results...it's probably the acetone that is cleaning the rubber. Also, clean the inside flanges of the wheel where the just cleaned rubber contacts it. Don't get carb cleaner on the outside of your wheel, it might stain or damage the finish. The two surfaces should be very clean which will help to keep the tire from slipping.

One more thing to try once you've got the tire and wheel clean is spray hairspray on the bead seating surface just before seating the bead. This will act as a mild adhesive and hold the tire in place with more grip. Any excess that gets on your rim and or exposed part of your tire can be washed away with water. Haven't tried it, but I'm willing to use up some Aqua Net to find out

Cheers,
George

 

[GTLaser]

Tires will spin even on a low hp car such as Miata, had it happen to me a couple of years ago.

Same here on my Mongoose, thought it was a bent rim....