New u-joints, or bite the bullet and buy unitrax half shafts.

blackandblue01

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Looks like I have a decision to make. U-joints are in need of replacing on drivers side half shaft. I am currently stock drive train with the standard upgrades. Looking in the next 3-4 years to add more power. Probably 600-650 hp range. Will the factory shafts hold up ok with this power? If so I will just replace all 4 joints. (both shafts). If not then I will look into upgrading them. Any opinions are welcome. Thx, Jim
 

Fatboy 18

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This is what happened to mine
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And were off ...................






















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Er.......No were not! ................. My 1/4 mile time was 25min pushing it!
I broke a Half shaft joint, first time I had been drag racind in this car, and on the first run too :(

Pics of the damage

http://www.flickr.com/photos/90582394@N02/

The stock UJ broke apart causing damage to the output shaft on the rear diff and the driveshaft :(

I had to remove diff,find and replace the output shaft, I then went with new UJs through the whole drive line AND Unitrax Half shafts for pece of mind.
http://forums.viperclub.org/threads/663710-Been-working-on-my-shaft!
 

Roysviper

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if money is an issue right now and you do NOT plan on any hard launches anytime soon....I would just change out the u joints.......if you want total piece of mind and money is no issue....order the UNITREX half shafts and change them both out......Personally I always change mine to UNITREX......and I have even twisted a UNITREX half shaft in half on the line when I had my S/C 96 GTS.....right now I have 3 brand new UNITREX half shafts in my garage for backup.......my 2 cents.....



Looks like I have a decision to make. U-joints are in need of replacing on drivers side half shaft. I am currently stock drive train with the standard upgrades. Looking in the next 3-4 years to add more power. Probably 600-650 hp range. Will the factory shafts hold up ok with this power? If so I will just replace all 4 joints. (both shafts). If not then I will look into upgrading them. Any opinions are welcome. Thx, Jim
 
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blackandblue01

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I wish I could remember where I read this but the new Dodge front u joint for the Cummins 4x4 were much cheaper and stronger and fit perfectly. I will see if I can find the thread I read it in.

Definately lots of good information. I think for now I am gonna fix the stock shafts. Troublemaker this would be greatly appreciated.

Roy, how much do the unitrax shafts cost. Thx
 

Roysviper

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[
last pair I bought was under $800.......go on UNITREX.com



QUOTE=blackandblue01;3165215]Definately lots of good information. I think for now I am gonna fix the stock shafts. Troublemaker this would be greatly appreciated.

Roy, how much do the unitrax shafts cost. Thx[/QUOTE]
 

Jack B

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When you replace the U-Joints, get the type that does not have the grease fitting. The grease channel weakens the body of the U-Joint. If you have stock half-shafts, before you change the joints, first see if the shaft moves in/out. Remove the diff side U-Joint and push the shaft towards the wheel, if it binds the whole shaft should be changed out. If it binds real bad, it will be difficult to remove.

A little hint on drag racing, hatching upon launch is usually when you wheel hop. If you want to drag race, a bias ply slick is way less apt to wheel bounce than a drag radial or street tire. Changing the rear toe also reduces wheel hop.
 

Fatboy 18

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Hello Jack B I have a couple of questions.

What do you mean by U joints that do not have the Grease fitting? There's grease in the cups? do you mean a U Joint with an external grease ******?

According to my service manual, the UJs must be Viper pacific due to the torque the car puts out. Standard replacement UJs may fail! Mine are made by Spicer but state on the box they are for a Dodge viper ;)

"A little hint on drag racing, hatching upon launch is usually when you wheel hop" What is Hatching? Ive not ever heard of that term before?
 

viperrt96

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You may want to consider new bolts and straps.

Always buy new straps and bolts

Buy the Unitrax just for the fact that they are tough

I know I broke their best (1000hp) half shaft :smirk:

Unitrax made good on it (call it a fluke ?) and I don't know what they did but I've yet to break another one

Given that these cars are heavy (3800+) and my car still cuts mid 1.4 60' times should be enough testimony for anyone

I can't give testimony for the stockers but that's why I bought Unitrax - I wanted a piece of mind

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viperrt96

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According to my service manual, the UJs must be Viper pacific due to the torque the car puts out. Standard replacement UJs may fail! Mine are made by Spicer but state on the box they are for a Dodge viper ;)

Spicer is Dana and Vipers have Dana 44 IRS's so spicers are what you need and if I remember that's what came with the Unitrax half shafts too so........
 

Jack B

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1. You do not want the external grease fittings.

2. Hatch = like break an egg shell.

Hello Jack B I have a couple of questions.

What do you mean by U joints that do not have the Grease fitting? There's grease in the cups? do you mean a U Joint with an external grease ******?

According to my service manual, the UJs must be Viper pacific due to the torque the car puts out. Standard replacement UJs may fail! Mine are made by Spicer but state on the box they are for a Dodge viper ;)

"A little hint on drag racing, hatching upon launch is usually when you wheel hop" What is Hatching? Ive not ever heard of that term before?
 

Fatboy 18

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OK for the guys that have replaced the straps and bolts (as I have),
How the hell do you torque them up?

I have a 1/2 Square drive ratchet torque wrench, with the various sockets and adaptors on there, there is no way you can get anywhere near the bolts.

I then purchased a 1/4 inch square drive torque wrench, even with this the torque does not go up high enough to the required figure, and you can only get to the bolts on the Half Shafts. Its impossible to torque the bolts on the prop shaft coupling?

I ended up using new cap head screws then using a Allen key slipped a ring spanner over the longer shaft to aid with leverage. Tightened to 3 white knuckles and a bit more ;)

Do any of you have a different way of tightening up the nuts?

For reference the label on the UJ box is

UNITRAX . 800.622.4327
Dodge Viper super 44ICA 1350 Series Performance U-Joint
SPI-VIPER-1350SL

Got my stuff from a Vendor who no longer posts on here.
 
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Jack B

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Keep one wheel off the ground, just rotate the wheel and it will give the you the correct angle on the shaft. You can use a 3/8 drive with a 12 point socket. One you get the knack, it is pretty easy. A long extension with wobler end also can help.

One hint, if the new bolts you bought were sitting on the shelf for too long the thread lock can actually get too hard and you could strip the threads. If you see that is an issue, use a wire wheel to clean the bolts and then reapply thread lock.

.
OK for the guys that have replaced the straps and bolts (as I have),
How the hell do you torque them up?

I have a 1/2 Square drive ratchet torque wrench, with the various sockets and adaptors on there, there is no way you can get anywhere near the bolts.

I then purchased a 1/4 inch square drive torque wrench, even with this the torque does not go up high enough to the required figure, and you can only get to the bolts on the Half Shafts. Its impossible to torque the bolts on the prop shaft coupling?

I ended up using new cap head screws then using a Allen key slipped a ring spanner over the longer shaft to aid with leverage. Tightened to 3 white knuckles and a bit more ;)

Do any of you have a different way of tightening up the nuts?

For reference the label on the UJ box is

UNITRAX . 800.622.4327
Dodge Viper super 44ICA 1350 Series Performance U-Joint
SPI-VIPER-1350SL

Got my stuff from a Vendor who no longer posts on here.
 

Fatboy 18

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There's No way you can get a socket with a wobbler onto the Prop shaft screws, half shaft, yes but not Prop shaft! The only way I could get them off was with a ring spanner. I would also recommend a six sided ring spanner so you dont round off the flats!

I did not re-use the original screws. I got new Cap screws and straps from Unitrax. These have a Allen socket head and do not come with the Loctite patches. I used Loctite Blue thread lock.

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Mad Max

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I used a 1/4" drive socket with a wobbler extension. Then used a 3/8 drive torque wrench with a 3/8 to 1/4 adapter. The pictures show a 1/4 ratchet. I had already returned the torque wrench to my other shop.
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Fatboy 18

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I used a 1/4" drive socket with a wobbler extension. Then used a 3/8 drive torque wrench with a 3/8 to 1/4 adapter. The pictures show a 1/4 ratchet. I had already returned the torque wrench to my other shop.
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Wow, thanks for the pics, that clears things up, Ive not seen that kind of Wobbler tool before. You are also using a long socket compaired to what I was using.
I thought a Wobbler socket was one of these
http://www.powertoolsdirect.com/facom-j-240a-universal-joint-3-8-in-drive
No wonder I could not work out how to get the socket on the nut! :(
 

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