Non -ABS GTS Stoptech Install Q's.....

[moparracing]

for those who have a non-abs GTS ('96-'00) & installed the stoptech rear big brake upgrade:
did you grind down the lower a-arm like they show in the install manual below (page 10-11)? Is it necessary?

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/m...lation Manual_98-260-1431_Rev. C_11-12-05.pdf

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

I just have the fronts. Good luck.

 

[DanielR]

I did it when I did my installation. I assumed since it is in the installation instructions that I could do it myself with a grinder or ignore it and let the new two piece rotors attempt it the first time the suspension experienced full bump.

 

[dave6666]

Why would you not? Looks like a cave man could do it.

 

[Boxer12]

Yes, been there, done that. Used a Sawzall. Any cutting tool will work... I think it would be a mistake to do just fronts...for track use, I would rely a LOT on the rear brakes with the GTS, more on some tracks than others. The bias adjuster is a trick tool for tuning your car for a specific track. Well worth the effort...and who wants little brakes on back with 345's?

 

[02 Graphite GTS]

for those who have a non-abs GTS ('96-'00) & installed the stoptech rear big brake upgrade:
did you grind down the lower a-arm like they show in the install manual below (page 10-11)? Is it necessary?

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/m...lation Manual_98-260-1431_Rev. C_11-12-05.pdf

Yes you MUST do this. It is very easy and simple. If you don't do it, when the wheel / suspension is "hanging" down, the brake rotor will hit that corner.

 

[moparracing]

thanks for the replies, i will do it.
the reason i asked is because in all the stoptech 4 wheel brake upgrade threads i found, no one mentioned doing this.

 

[NI-KA]

Boxer12,

Could you explain "The bias adjuster is a trick tool for tuning your car for a specific track." Is this an additional piece of equipment? or some other adjustment that can be made with existing equipment. IF so how?

 

[dave6666]

Boxer12,

Could you explain "The bias adjuster is a trick tool for tuning your car for a specific track." Is this an additional piece of equipment? or some other adjustment that can be made with existing equipment. IF so how?

DBB aka Parts Rack has that item it is an add on.

 

[vancouver-gts]

I did the DBB kit that requires some cutting similarly to the stoptec brakes kit. The difference is the stoptec kit reqires more trimming off the lower arm to clear the stoptec rotor. The DBB kit comes with adapter spacers and stepped longer lugnuts to bring the OEM rotors out to get clearence without filing the lower arm .Wonder why you didn't go with the full kit? The Stoptec unit will look better than the OEM front I do like the DBB e-brake setup with the logo best though .It's a piece of jewelry.

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[moparracing]

I did the DBB kit that requires some cutting similarly to the stoptec brakes kit. The difference is the stoptec kit reqires more trimming off the lower arm to clear the stoptec rotor. The DBB kit comes with adapter spacers and stepped longer lugnuts to bring the OEM rotors out to get clearence without filing the lower arm .Wonder why you didn't go with the full kit? The Stoptec unit will look better than the OEM front

i did go with the 4 wheel stoptech kit, but it's only the rears that the instructions say need the lower a-arm grinding..... the stoptech kit doesn't require the manual proportioning valve either.

 

[Dan Cragin]

Yes you do need to grind the lower control arm.

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

Yes, been there, done that. Used a Sawzall. Any cutting tool will work... I think it would be a mistake to do just fronts...for track use, I would rely a LOT on the rear brakes with the GTS, more on some tracks than others. The bias adjuster is a trick tool for tuning your car for a specific track. Well worth the effort...and who wants little brakes on back with 345's?

My backs are modified to match the ST40 caliper.

 

[Boxer12]

'Bias adjuster' is a screw adjustable 'valve' that lets you manually adjust the front to rear brake bias. It is very handy for setting the brakes to handle certain tricky corners. Let's say you have a track like Putnam where your lap times will be greatly influenced by your speed on the straight, and speed coming out of turn 10 is crucial. You have to brake hard at the entry to turn 10 and want the car to come around for the straight. Fr bias (which is the typical bias with so called 'balanced' systems) will prohibit you from turning while you are ******* the brakes, but rearward bias allows the front to come around sooner and you can generate greater exit speed. The speed gained will be carried all the way down the straight.

 

[JonB]

Boxer12,

Could you explain "The bias adjuster is a trick tool for tuning your car for a specific track." Is this an additional piece of equipment? or some other adjustment that can be made with existing equipment. IF so how?

A Bit simpler: The adjustable proportioning valve does NOT make any one end of the car brake any better....it just makes one end of the car brake WORSE !

[So as discussed elsewhere, if NI-KA but his FRONT STOPTECH BRAKES on the rear, it would be too Much Brake at the rear, and he would have to use softer pads and/or a prop valve to dial down the fluid pressure in the rear lines. ]

 

[luc]

'Bias adjuster' is a screw adjustable 'valve' that lets you manually adjust the front to rear brake bias. It is very handy for setting the brakes to handle certain tricky corners. Let's say you have a track like Putnam where your lap times will be greatly influenced by your speed on the straight, and speed coming out of turn 10 is crucial. You have to brake hard at the entry to turn 10 and want the car to come around for the straight. Fr bias (which is the typical bias with so called 'balanced' systems) will prohibit you from turning while you are ******* the brakes, but rearward bias allows the front to come around sooner and you can generate greater exit speed. The speed gained will be carried all the way down the straight.

Don't want to get into an argument but your post, from a technical and racing perspectives, is note quite accurate
Not even sure where to start......

Braking is most effective when the 4 tires do the job ,at the limit a locking up.
Due to forward weight transfer under braking, the front can handle a lot more braking than the rear ( that's why calipers and rotors are always bigger in front) and the bias valve only serve the purpose of fine tuning the rear to avoid lock up.
There are other ways to accomplish the same goals such as pads, calipers piston sizes, etc but the neat thing with the valve is that you can adjust it for different track conditions ( wet,etc)

If you're trying to turn and braking hard at the same time ( not talking about trail-braking here), you're doing something wrong.
Now the tire has to split it's traction/coefficient of friction, between lateral force ( turning) and momentum force ( braking).
End result that there less grip left in the tire for turning or for braking
That's the reason why hard braking should be done in a straight line and trail braking used to set up the chassis for the turn.
On a turn b4 a long straight, you want to late apex which mean braking earlier and being back on the power earlier than with a "normal" or early apex.
It will be exactly the opposite for a turn at the end the longest straight, you apex early, meaning you sacrifice exit speed for staying longer on the gas in the straight by braking later.