Normally Aspirated power upgrade on a Gen 2 (96)

MADMAX

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Normally Aspirated power upgrade on a Gen 2 (96)
Heads and Headers Replacement

“At last Winter’s here!”

Well, almost here.

Most people aren’t general too pleased to see winter arrive but this year “I am” because at last I can begin my long awaited winter project. I started planning this over a year ago, researching what I needed to do, talking to those that had done it before and buying all the materials, so you can imagine how I now feel to at last get started.

So what am I doing?

I’m doing a normally aspirated power upgrade to my 96 Gen 2 – fitting ported and skimmed Gen 3 heads, Belanger headers and a bespoke 3” exhaust system, plus the proverbial tune up. The intention is to increase power by around 100HP by increasing air flow and compression ratio, without challenging the stock fuel system. I’m keeping the stock 908 cam and will be using stock Gen 3 roller rockers.

I’ll also be doing a few other upgrades including fitting a 180 degree thermostat, fitting Woodhouse engine mounts and fitting a new radiator. I will not be covering these installations in this write-up and will also not be going into teeny weeny detail on the engine stuff – I’ll leave that to you.

Why am I doing it?

I suppose one reason is the engineering challenge and the fact that “I can do it” but the inspiration is really to get hands-on with this massive powerhouse engine and see what I can do without a turbo or supercharger. I will say though that I’m not interested in extra power at the expense of becoming noisy – I enjoy driving track events too much to let that happen, so the exhaust system is a crucial part of the plan. Watch this space.

I’m not gonna rush this work either and don’t expect to be finished until early Spring 2012 but wanted to start a thread now, update it with my progress as time goes on and benefit from VCA members’ opinions.

So please read on over the winter months and enjoy - any feedback will be very much appreciated. :eater:

Ade :2tu:

Spares
Bought so far:-
• Pair of Gen3 heads
Stage 1 ported
Skimmed to increase compression ratio from 9.6:1 to 10.3:1
Stock valves - new valve stem seals
• Cometic Custom head gasket
0.027” - stock was 0.051”
• New inlet manifold gasket - stock
• Pair of Belanger headers
New header gaskets – stock metal ones – do not use fibre gaskets
Permatex ultra copper RTV Silicone gasket maker
Stage 8 exhaust manifold fasteners
• ARP studs and nuts (247-4201)
• SCT Xcalibrator
• New cat back exhaust system
• New pushrods may also be required

Tools
Most tools will be general mechanics tools with the exception of a pushrod depth measuring device, if I need to get new ones made.

LET THE FUN BEGIN
After spending the best part of a day transforming what looked like the town’s refuse tip back into my garage, I got down to removing the hood. I wasn’t sure exactly where I could safely store it but eventually decided the best place would be roped to the garage ceiling. This seemed like a good idea at the time and only with sheer determination, and the help of a couple of neighbours, I pulled it off. Just hope it stays put.

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And before anyone says my garage still looks like a refuse tip, "I agree with you" but it's much better than it was. :D
 
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plumcrazy

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why go thru all that work not to swap out to a better cam and make better use of the heads ?
 
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MADMAX

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Thanks PC - I can assure you I did consider a cam upgrade but the decision to not upgrade was based on several factors namely extra cost and a lot of extra work.
Also I’m hoping I can get the power increase I'm looking for without changingout the stock cam.
 

jdeft1

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I'm sure you know what that engine can do if forced so I respect your desire to keep it simple....


Cheers
 

99 R/T 10

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Are you going to add 1.7 RR? You should if to increase lift and get a real nice rumble at idle.

Also, the Gen III heads will need to be modified to work with your Gen II. Points to mount the P/S I believe, maybe something else? Not positive.
 

VYPR BYT 94

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Why stick with the stock 708 cam. Get a REAL cam for the car.

Sounds like he is doing all the work himself and is trying to avoid the extra work and cost... see #3 above. He's already biting off more than I would attempt in my garage.
Good luck! ;)
 

Fatboy 18

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Give it a go mate :2tu: And remember my offer of help if you need a spare set of hands :)

Oh and for the record my garage does not look much better :D Ive just got too much stuff and no place to put it :(
 
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MADMAX

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Thanks all.

And thanks Mark - appreciate the offer of support.

Not much progress this week – only managed a few minutes in the garage - jacked her up into the usual wintertime position.

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Tested new SCT programmer. :2tu:

And removed some other bits and bobs.

Still a long way to go before things start getting interesting.

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MADMAX

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Are you going to add 1.7 RR? You should if to increase lift and get a real nice rumble at idle.

Also, the Gen III heads will need to be modified to work with your Gen II. Points to mount the P/S I believe, maybe something else? Not positive.

Thanks Mike,
Yeh, I know I've got some welding to do for the P/S pulley mount - it's on the list of things to do. :2tu:
But the rockers..... I thought stock Gen 3 rockers were 1.7?
 

Nadine UK GTS

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Yes they are 1.7 on gen3.
Great idea to make a thread of it with nice pics.
I hang my hoods the other way up so I can fill them with parts being space challenged too!

All the best with it, and mind your digits :omg:
 

Viper Grenade

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If you have a Stage 3 Race ported Gen 3 head vs a Stage 3 Race ported Gen 3 head; what is the flow diff. How much more power would it make?
 

Red Snake

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Thanks Mike,
Yeh, I know I've got some welding to do for the P/S pulley mount - it's on the list of things to do. :2tu:
But the rockers..... I thought stock Gen 3 rockers were 1.7?

The Gen III rockers are 1.7 but they are not rollers IIRC. I would get some T&Ds if I were you. I would also do the cam while you are in there, but I understand why you are not doing the cam.

Good luck with the upgrades.;)
 

ViperTony

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Thanks PC - I can assure you I did consider a cam upgrade but the decision to not upgrade was based on several factors namely extra cost and a lot of extra work.
Also I’m hoping I can get the power increase I'm looking for without changingout the stock cam.

I thought the cam was a lot of extra work but it turned out not to be especially with the heads already off of the engine. I wanted a very lumpy cam and went with a Greg Good cam. What kind of power increase are you looking for? Have fun with the build and keep us posted.
 

VIPER BAZ UK

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GOOD LUCK ADE..........

Keep us posted with pics and updates....

The cam really is a piece of cake...

For some reason that top view reminds me of being above the pits at Le-Mans..
 
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MADMAX

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I'm no good at "multiple quote" so you'll have to suffer as follows.

Viper Grenade:-
“Did you mean to ask what is the flow rate difference between Gen2 and Gen3 Stage 3 race ported Heads?”
I think he did - I’ve no idea what exact flow figures are involved but I’m sure someone out their does, if they want to chirp in. :dunno:
I do however know that
Gen 2 is good
Gen 3 is better
and Gen 3 ported is excellent….. :eater:

Viper Tony:-
“I thought the cam was a lot of extra work but it turned out not to be especially with the heads already off of the engine. I wanted a very lumpy cam and went with a Greg Good cam. What kind of power increase are you looking for? Have fun with the build and keep us posted. “
I didn’t want a very lump cam so the 708 lives on.
Will keep y’all posted. :2tu:

***,
No hydraulic suspension spring compressors needed for this project so hopefully the digits will be safe, unless a hammer becomes necessary. :rolaugh:

Baz,
THE CAM IS STAYING – capiche? ;)
Gonna try to post up weekly. :2tu:

Not much progress this week although I did collect these little beauties…
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MADMAX

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Removed the inlet manifold this afternoon - no issues. :2tu:

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A pair of long nose pliers were useful for removing the 20 securing bolts tucked down beneath the inlet casting.

The injector wires were cable tied to the inlet manifold.
The only way I could get to these was to careful lift the manifold to get access, then snip the ties off.
With the manifold removed I was then able to look more closely at the injector cables, disconnect the cable connectors and removed them for safe keeping.
Some of these connectors came apart easy - some did NOT. :crazy2:

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VIPER BAZ UK

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Looking a this pic Ade your engine looks a little twisted....
Pasanger side needs to come down,motor mount has slot in it so you can pull/push it back into place....

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MADMAX

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Looking a this pic Ade your engine looks a little twisted....
Pasanger side needs to come down,motor mount has slot in it so you can pull/push it back into place....
Woodhouse engine mounts going in too so we'll talk later.:2tu:
 
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MADMAX

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You will love the Woodhouse mount Max... Keep the posting coming.

Rev

Thanks Chris. :2tu:

Good progress this afternoon – managed to get both exhaust headers and cats out. Okay, it took me a little longer than an afternoon but when you consider the car is 15 years old, you’re gonna get some rusty nuts.

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Having said that, the exhaust header bolts came out like butter – no problems. Even the header to flexible coupling turn-back bolts (2 off on each side) came away okay - one simply sheered as soon as I gave the socket a little ‘twist’ - the other three unscrewed clean and could be re-used. :crazy2:

The exhaust support brackets gave me most trouble - the ones behind the sill mufflers - needed them loosened off to get enough flexibility.

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These stock headers weigh a ton!
A little surprised to see so much heat damage caused by the cat.
The show goes on. :D
 
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Jack B

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You probably should go with silicone radiator hoses. The push rods will be a differerent length. You could also seal the pcv valve/vacuum lines and set up A catch can.
 

VIPER BAZ UK

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While the exhaust is all off.. Maybe worth painting (VHT) iner sills....
Great work mate....Tried calling, now i know why you were busy
 

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