Oil pickup question>

[2000acr]

I'm looking for this piece circled-

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Is it under this screen in the bottom of the oil pan?, and does it go to the square hole I made the arrow too?

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[dave6666]

Your engine doesn't have the oil pickup tube? I think you need to be looking up at the bottom of the engine to see it.

 

[2000acr]

Your engine doesn't have the oil pickup tube? I think you need to be looking up at the bottom of the engine to see it.

Unless I'm blind no, lol

I am trying to figure out why Im not getting oil pressure- I had it before and the car was fine for months- started the car the other day..oil light on dash was on, and gauge at 0. I removed the oil pan, and I dont see the oil pick up tube. Ill post a pic of the bottom side of the engine without the oil pan- mabey I need a second set of eyes.

I replaced the oil sending unit gauge, or at least what I think is that- is the following pic the dash light gauge or the pressure sending unit gauge. It was located on the side of the oil filter adpater piece.

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[99 R/T 10]

That breakdown schematic is a Gen I oil pan. Your Gen II takes the oil from the bottom of the oil pan(picture). Might have an oil pump issue(front of the timing cover. Todd at Arrow Racing sells upgraded covers with a 23MM pump for better oiling properties.

 

[1TONY1]

A gen1 has the pickup tube. A gen2 does not. The gen2 pick up is built into the pan...inlet is the screen area and then thru the rectangle hole towards the oil pump that is built into the front cover.

EDIT: Holeshot by 99 RT10000000000000000000

 

[dave6666]

So you mean when I'm out rock crawling in the GTS and I ding the oil pan I could damage the integral oil pickup? What pansy ass engineer thought of that?

 

[2000acr]

That breakdown schematic is a Gen I oil pan. Your Gen II takes the oil from the bottom of the oil pan(picture). Might have an oil pump issue(front of the timing cover. Todd at Arrow Racing sells upgraded covers with a 23MM pump for better oiling properties.

Thanks, that would make sense- I am almost to the timing cover- started taking it apart yesterday- I'll see whats going on in there.

Is there a way to see if the oil pump releif vales are stuck open. As I understand it there are underneith the 2 caps in this pic- but I tapped the case with a rubber hammer and they dont want to come off-

If the releif valves are stuck open that may be the issue right? If the spring got weak and stuck open it may not have been strong enough to puch back the other way and close the valve? Is that how it works? How do I get the caps off to replace the spring? Is it 2 valves- 1 under each cap or just one?

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thanks

 

[1TONY1]

There is a valve (piston) under each plug. Those are basically freeze plugs....beating around with a rubber hammer will not work. Plan on getting new ones.....either use a small screwdriver and hammer or run a screw in the center and pull them out. Seems like I drilled a small hole and used a screw to pull them. The service manual "may" address this.

While we are on the subject, I have worked on a car before and made sure everything...valves, springs moved freely. All back together and it still wasn't right. Bought new parts...valves/springs and installed them and it was fine.
My point, go ahead and spend the $50 or whatever the parts cost now and replace them.

The service manual has all the specs on the oil pump, so you can measure clearances and make sure it is all in good shape.

With "zero" pressure and good sending units etc. I would look at the pump gears before spending a lot of time on the valves.

The valves are sharp on one end.....I believe this is so that they will cut thru trash and continue working instead of getting stuck.

 

[2000acr]

There is a valve (piston) under each plug. Those are basically freeze plugs....beating around with a rubber hammer will not work. Plan on getting new ones.....either use a small screwdriver and hammer or run a screw in the center and pull them out. Seems like I drilled a small hole and used a screw to pull them. The service manual "may" address this.

While we are on the subject, I have worked on a car before and made sure everything...valves, springs moved freely. All back together and it still wasn't right. Bought new parts...valves/springs and installed them and it was fine.
My point, go ahead and spend the $50 or whatever the parts cost now and replace them.

The service manual has all the specs on the oil pump, so you can measure clearances and make sure it is all in good shape.

With "zero" pressure and good sending units etc. I would look at the pump gears before spending a lot of time on the valves.

The valves are sharp on one end.....I believe this is so that they will cut thru trash and continue working instead of getting stuck.

I think I found the problem- The bottom most valve is stuck open. The top one moved freely all the way in with little effort when I removed the spring. The bottom valve was stuck in the open position, and I couldnt remove it- I tapped it all the way in with a screwdriver and hammer, and it moves freely for about a quarter to a half inch- but when its in the open or out position- it get stuck, to the point where it wont move at all- I have a little metal hook type tool I'm trying to pull it out with but it won't come out. Does it seem like the hole its in contracted somehow? Or coule the plunger had expanded?.. itther way it needs to come out- and if a new plunger dosnt move freely Ill need a new timing cover ect? right?

thanks

 

[RTTTTed]

I think I'd check a main cap or two and make sure the bearings are perfect while everything is apart.

It would be a good time to buy a pan upgrade kit and install that. 1Tony1 sells them for the 97s?