2000_Black_RT10
Enthusiast
Just to inform anyone ahead of time, what you may encounter..
I bought new engine and trans mount from Mark J., nice mounts, I like that the steel was zinc plated to avoid future corrosion.
Now off to the task of changing them.. referencing the excellent illustrative guide beforehand. My car is in decent shape, never driven in the rain, first time the mounts were removed.
First problem, the nuts were seized, factory mild steel studs on the mounts with bare steel nuts rusted. Tried the impact wrench, 1/2" breaker bar, then I had to pull out the 3/4" drive ratchet and snapped them off.. (watch your knuckles!).
Pic of the 3/4" ratchet drive compared to a 1/2" drive.. it's big..
Second problem, to get to the passenger side bottom mount nut, the fender liner was in the way, it's a SMC panel riveted on the car that does not flex, perhaps I could have drilled off the rivets to remove the panel, but I just cut away some of the fender liner. The nut was so siezed that I would have busted a 1/2" drive u-joint socket extension.
Pic of the cutout on the passenger side, the red line was the original shape. Drivers side was ok.
I used a rasp bit on the drill, you can't cut the liner with snips otherwise it will crack, because it's a SMC panel (sheet molded compound), which is sort of like fibreglass. Notice there is a clearance notch in the frame, but they forgot to put clearance in the liner, most likely because the liner was riveted on after the engine was installed in the factory. It's dusty trimming SMC, best to use a dust mask and safety glasses because of the sharp fine fibres, even my arms were a bit itchy afterwards..
Here's a pic showing the cutout clearance and the 3/4" drive.
Pic of the new mount installed, I used anti-sieze compund on practically everything that I take apart and put back together, luckily I had some spare nuts because the Woodhouse mount kit unfortunately did not provide new nuts.
Third problem, on both of the aluminum brackets that bolt to the engine block, the factory installed the bolts so when you slide the upper bolt out it hits the exhaust and with a bit of effort I finally got them out, but it would have been so much easier if they changed the direction, going from front to rear as I did when they were reinstalled on both driver and passenger side as shown in the pic. Another problem because the bracket bolts were most likely installed prior to installing the exhaust at the factory.
Driver side, bottom and top bolts are inserted front to rear.
Passenger side, bottom and top bolts are inserted front to rear.
That's it.. times like these I do curse a bit... at the design engineers...
Cheers,
Mike
I bought new engine and trans mount from Mark J., nice mounts, I like that the steel was zinc plated to avoid future corrosion.
You must be registered for see images
Now off to the task of changing them.. referencing the excellent illustrative guide beforehand. My car is in decent shape, never driven in the rain, first time the mounts were removed.
First problem, the nuts were seized, factory mild steel studs on the mounts with bare steel nuts rusted. Tried the impact wrench, 1/2" breaker bar, then I had to pull out the 3/4" drive ratchet and snapped them off.. (watch your knuckles!).
You must be registered for see images
Pic of the 3/4" ratchet drive compared to a 1/2" drive.. it's big..
You must be registered for see images
Second problem, to get to the passenger side bottom mount nut, the fender liner was in the way, it's a SMC panel riveted on the car that does not flex, perhaps I could have drilled off the rivets to remove the panel, but I just cut away some of the fender liner. The nut was so siezed that I would have busted a 1/2" drive u-joint socket extension.
Pic of the cutout on the passenger side, the red line was the original shape. Drivers side was ok.
You must be registered for see images
I used a rasp bit on the drill, you can't cut the liner with snips otherwise it will crack, because it's a SMC panel (sheet molded compound), which is sort of like fibreglass. Notice there is a clearance notch in the frame, but they forgot to put clearance in the liner, most likely because the liner was riveted on after the engine was installed in the factory. It's dusty trimming SMC, best to use a dust mask and safety glasses because of the sharp fine fibres, even my arms were a bit itchy afterwards..
You must be registered for see images
You must be registered for see images
Here's a pic showing the cutout clearance and the 3/4" drive.
You must be registered for see images
Pic of the new mount installed, I used anti-sieze compund on practically everything that I take apart and put back together, luckily I had some spare nuts because the Woodhouse mount kit unfortunately did not provide new nuts.
You must be registered for see images
Third problem, on both of the aluminum brackets that bolt to the engine block, the factory installed the bolts so when you slide the upper bolt out it hits the exhaust and with a bit of effort I finally got them out, but it would have been so much easier if they changed the direction, going from front to rear as I did when they were reinstalled on both driver and passenger side as shown in the pic. Another problem because the bracket bolts were most likely installed prior to installing the exhaust at the factory.
Driver side, bottom and top bolts are inserted front to rear.
You must be registered for see images
Passenger side, bottom and top bolts are inserted front to rear.
You must be registered for see images
That's it.. times like these I do curse a bit... at the design engineers...
Cheers,
Mike
Last edited:
