Please help – mechanical problem on day 1 of ownership

[moparguy]

I’ve been waiting/working towards this day for 20 years, and I finally put a ’99 RT/10 in my garage!

Unfortunately I already experienced a mechanical issue that I’m looking for some input on. I drove it home about 50 miles, then took several short trips around the neighborhood with various passengers grinning ear to ear. At one point I was rolling along, I’d guess in 3rd gear, and the car started bucking (as though it was running out of gas) then it stalled and I coasted to the side of the road. When I attempted to restart it, I got nothing, no dash lights, no cranking of the starter, nothing. After maybe 5 minutes I thought I heard the faint sound of a relay click, so I gave it another attempt. I turned the key and it started right up, however the check-engine light was on. I successfully drove it home and put it into the garage, but have no clue what might have occurred.
I’m assuming that a shop could probably read a diagnostic code for me, but I thought I’d pose the question here first to see if there is an obvious or likely explanation.

Thank you!

 

[eucharistos]

.... a ’99 RT/10 in my garage!....

congrats

.... I’d guess in 3rd gear, and the car started bucking (as though it was running out of gas) then it stalled and I coasted to the side of the road. When I attempted to restart it, I got nothing, no dash lights, no cranking of the starter, nothing. After maybe 5 minutes I thought I heard the faint sound of a relay click, so I gave it another attempt.

i'd check the battery and cable connections 1st

do a search, battery condition very important in these cars

if you have time get someone to pull the code, that will help folks here if it is not the battery

keep us posted

 

[Venomiss]

Others will chime in with ideas but this might be a good phone call for you to make.
Talk with Chuck Tator.
Tator's Garage 20 Spring Street South in South Salem, NY 10590
Phone 914-763-3136

 

[Red Snake]

You can also get a code reader very cheap at Autozone and just keep it in the car.

 

[CitySnake]

All the symptoms lead to battery. Even a weak battery will cause all those kind of odd symptoms. When replaced, you'll be good to go.

 

[01sapphirebob]

I'm thinking battery as well.

 

[sniper1]

Yes, get a code reader and call CHUCK...

 

[ViperGeorge]

Buy or borrow a volt meter and check battery voltage, if less than 12v it may be bad. Try a battery charger and see if that helps. Check Engine light could be a result of the car running crappy before it stalled. Get a code reader as posted above. Cheap and well worth it.

 

[PatentLaw]

What others said. Swap out the battery. Face it....the battery is most likely old and it is in the dead of winter. Put one in anyway to just eliminate that as a possibility. Battery is in the rear of the car, drivers side. Have to take the back wheel off to get to it.

 

[plumcrazy]

in this order...

buy battery
call chuck
do what chuck says
install battery
PM a mod here to change status to viper owner

 

[Venomiss]

in this order...

buy battery
call chuck
do what chuck says
install battery
PM a mod here to change status to viper owner

One more for the list.
http://forums.viperclub.org/new-owner-questions/603453-new-viper-owner-time-join-vca.html

Welcome to the party!

 

[ViperTony]

I had similar symptoms when my battery died, completely died. Some pics of the battery compartment and hwo to access it can be found here: http://forums.viperclub.org/illustrated-upgrades/613276-battery-tray-cleaning-guide-photos.html

 

[moparguy]

Thank you all! Now I know what I'll be working on this weekend.
I'll let you know what I find.

 

[Steve-Indy]

While awaiting the time to work on the Viper, you may want to consider applying a charger under to hood to see if you notice a difference.

 

[CitySnake]

in this order...

buy battery
call chuck
do what chuck says
install battery
PM a mod here to change status to viper owner

Plum = Company guy

 

[moparguy]

Alright, here's an update.

I pulled the battery out and it tested OK, although it was only at 10 volts (it is 18 months old). I gave it a full charge and reinstalled it. I also found a battery cutoff switch at the fuse box under the hood (which I'm assuming was not factory installed). The connections at that switch were loose so I tightened them up, and I also found the "key" on that switch was actually interfering with the hood when it closed, which is probably what loosened the connections in the first place. I ground the top of the key to make some clearance. After all that I fired it up and the check engine light was off.

Now the only concern I have is why my battery was so weak after driving 50+ highway miles home; that should have given it a full charge I'd expect. Maybe that loose connection at the cut off switch was to blame(?); I guess time will tell.

In the future, to charge the battery while in the car do I use that "jumper" terminal and any ground point under the hood?
Also, is there a better way to install a cut off switch in these cars say for long term storage; I always thought those switches should be wired to break the ground connection rather than the positive cable(?).

 

[Steve-Indy]

As I said above, "yes" to using the provided terminals under the hood for charging.

That said, I personally would install a new battery.

Since I have seen fellow members suffer failures with the battery cutoff switches (both interrupting current in one case and shorting out in another case)...I don't use these devices...and, would consider removing it as several guys have done.

 

[Viper Wizard]

Since I have seen fellow members suffer failures with the battery cutoff switches (both interrupting current in one case and shorting out in another case)...I don't use these devices...and, would consider removing it as several guys have done.

YES! Get rid of that cut-off switch! BE VERY careful when undoing the nut on the stud at top of the PDC! Let it twist and you'll be buying a $2200 wiring harness!