Pro/Con Aluminum Flywheel for GTS

[RTTTTed]

Tech Question......OK I'm also thinking of going down this route, but I have a question? If removing the stock flywheel these are normally balanced? If you replace the Flywheel with a lightweight one is there a correct position where it fits on the car? Or are the bolt holes fixed for one position only? Having never seen the end of the crankshaft is this something to be concerned about? Its that reading about low speed bucking, I'm wondering if flywheel positioning may be a factor?

Mark

The low speed 'bucking' is a (mostly) 96-99 Viper issue. The large overlap of teh camshaft means that the engine runs the roughest and that causes the shake at idle. Lightening the flywheel and reciprocating engine parts increases this 'bucking/shaking of the engine. If you added 30# more to the flywheel the reciprocating weight would smooth the roughness if the idle but really slow down engine throttle response and hurt hp.

Because the "forged piston engine" runs rough many people (and magazines) were concerned that this isn't comfortable???? Personally, I could car less if my Viper idles rough. It sounds like there is over 800bhp under the hood and I don't think it should run smooth. My car is no sewing machine, it's a supercar. I ported my heads and match ported my intake manifold. Along with the increased hp this also increases the roughness of the idle. The CNC'd 2" long runners of my Roe sc intake manifold also causes the idle to be rougher than the smooth 08 idle. I like it like that. My engine responds instantly to any thottle movement. I don't notice the bucking, because like most surviving Viper owner/drivers I am a superior driver. I don't drive my car near the idle where it may buck.

Kinda like the Viper itself, a little rougher idle and a little more power. The lighter weight also makes my Viper handle better. You can call JonB, but I'd guess there's a 8# weight saving for Chrome-moly and 14-18# for aluminium flywheel. I spent thousands on upgrading to lighweight wheels and rotors to lighten my car so it'll handle a little better. I'm thoinking that my car weighs close to a vette so ... on the track they're in my way around corners and on the straights. Just as things are supposed to be.

Ted

 

[Fatboy 18]

Love it Thanks for the imput

Mark


That's it then Another item for the wish list
Should fit well on a Creampuff

 

[RTTTTed]

Maybe put the flywheel right beside Supercharger 9-1 pistons?

Ted

 

[VIPER BAZ UK]

Also saw the Green SRT Mr Plum is talking about.... That guy was SO SO LUCKY!!!!!!!!

If it wasn't for the amount of money he had spent on the car it would of been totaled..

 

[white out]

Any pictures of the aftermath on the green car?

Nick

 

[VIPER BAZ UK]

I think i have some somwhere but will get the OK from Chuck T first.....

 

[Fatboy 18]

? So what flywheel was in the green SRT? Are we allowed to know? What BHP Was the car putting out?

 

[Fatboy 18]

Maybe put the flywheel right beside Supercharger 9-1 pistons?

Ted

Well if I ever win the Lottery, I may think about those options, but to be honest Big Brake kit, Headers, safety roll bar, flowed heads, And I forgot to mention Sticky Tires are on the list so far

Mark


BTW, I thought only Yellow cars needed Superchargers

 

[Ratical2]

BTW, I thought only Yellow cars needed Superchargers

 

[VIPER BAZ UK]

Don't make him worse than he already is.........

 

[Dan Cragin]

Overall a lighter flywheel in a Viper is great, but depending on your use and modifications there are variables. For stock engines, or engines with bolt ons you will not have a problem. A little less inertia will change the amount of throttle you need to get moving and make the throttle a bit more touchy. Benefits are better throttle response, better shifting under power and better engine braking.

I prefer the lighter chromoly flywheels sold by Partsrack. The aluminum types are good but the chromoly flywheels are just the right weight and can take way more abuse than the aluminun ones.

Whenever you change your clutch, change the flywheel, flywheel bolts, pilot bearing and hydraulic slave cylinder, then you will not have any problems. Do not resurface the factory flywheel. If you are on a budget, I can give you some advice. The above repair is the best.
The stock clutch (LUK) is great for most all applications, if you drag race or make huge power there are many other options, but pedal effort and engagement smoothness will suffer.

Engines with big cams and headers will surge with light flywheels. The right headers and engine calibration can fix most of this, but you need the right combination.

Just my two cents.

 

[Fatboy 18]

Thanks Dan, good post

Mark