I was looking down a long list of parts just now and wish I had the money to buy just about all of them. But since my '98 is my dd, I was wondering along with full exhaust what would get me to 500-550 rwhp and at least equal trq? I'd rather loose HP than Trq, I'm a trq fiend. with that in mind, any suggestions?
Question of preference I suppose
- Thread starter Danino
- Start date
kcobean
Enthusiast
Cam, headers, intake, tune, heads.
It's only money!
It's only money!
1.7 Rockers will help
which cam? i have smooth tubes with high flow filter. i live in south Florida so cold air intakes aren't a possiblity.
Would I need new springs or push rods, etc...?
springs are not a bad idea.
call greg good for head work and cam info. 713-290-1103 he can help get you set up. and look for vipertony thread on his build. he just went thru this exact build.
I found it for ya... http://forums.viperclub.org/rt-10-gts-discussions/633639-my-creampuff-na-build.html
call greg good for head work and cam info. 713-290-1103 he can help get you set up. and look for vipertony thread on his build. he just went thru this exact build.
I found it for ya... http://forums.viperclub.org/rt-10-gts-discussions/633639-my-creampuff-na-build.html
Landman
Viper Owner
A NOVI2000 S/C on low safe boost will get you there also.
Roe TS supercahrger will satisfy your lust for torque. My Paxton drives like a Gen4 with 600rwhp. Nice and soft, easy to control and even a car that someone could drive without crashing it. Wife likes the Paxton best.
My Roe is loud, runs very rough at idle and has full power at 2,000rpm becuase the torque is higher than the hp. Absolutely insane and no one gets to drive it. My 600rwhp/644rwtq 98 GTS was stock except w/m inj., Roe blower, cats and catback, got 20mph and had no traction under 100mph with RUN CRAPS. I lost control of this car twice and I have been driving 10 second car since I was 21 years old.
My Sapphire/silver GTS Macedo engined GTS does have more than 100rwhp than the Paxton however and NO one is allowed to drive it. I have also lost control of this car before I could lift my foot from the throttle. Make sure absolute power is what you want before buying a Twin Screw blower.
My Roe is loud, runs very rough at idle and has full power at 2,000rpm becuase the torque is higher than the hp. Absolutely insane and no one gets to drive it. My 600rwhp/644rwtq 98 GTS was stock except w/m inj., Roe blower, cats and catback, got 20mph and had no traction under 100mph with RUN CRAPS. I lost control of this car twice and I have been driving 10 second car since I was 21 years old.
My Sapphire/silver GTS Macedo engined GTS does have more than 100rwhp than the Paxton however and NO one is allowed to drive it. I have also lost control of this car before I could lift my foot from the throttle. Make sure absolute power is what you want before buying a Twin Screw blower.
Your question is budget-based, for +50 ~ +100HP. The motive is usually for faster-quicker acceleration, right? 98 already has a good cam. Headers / Exhaust can achieve +50 HP No runability issues on a daily-driver. Blowers have issues.
But re-gearing the HP and TQ you have is the "poor man's supercharger" accelerating quicker (and slowing quicker) so long as you donot want to exceed 165 mph..... GET GEARS !!! No DD runability issues to dog you, either...
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JonB makes excellent points, if budget is a consideration Jon's suggestion is probably the best one.
Only other thing not mentioned is Nitrous Oxide, but it is really impractical except for the racetrack. Massive hp really cheap, but only for a few seconds at a time.
Ted
Only other thing not mentioned is Nitrous Oxide, but it is really impractical except for the racetrack. Massive hp really cheap, but only for a few seconds at a time.
Ted
If you like this sound, you'll love the performance...call Greg Good for a consultation. He won't try to sell you anything but he will you a ton of advice so that you can make an informed decision. I'd also call DC Performance, Dan Lesser (Viper Specialty), Roe Racing, DLM...to name a few.
I would do gears over rockers alone any day. More fun and SOTP feel for your dollar.
I would do gears over rockers alone any day. More fun and SOTP feel for your dollar.
BAD BOYZZ GARAGE
Enthusiast
Kcobean really hit it on the mark if your looking for the 550 rwhp/trq numbers with out going s/c'd. There definetly is a cost to get a quality product no matter who you go with.
Go back to the basics with quality bolt on's initially:
T&D Roller Rockers 1.7 ratio (GTS-R Lemans Vipers) or Crower 1.7 ratio with their solid one piece Viper stands (stock rocker ratio is 1.6, this upgrade makes your camshaft more aggresive & ensures valve geometry).
Hardened Pushrods
Light Weight Flywheel (improves engines rev speeds, seat of the pants & will shave a second or 2 off of your track times).
Headers without doubt (ARH long tube race merge - IMO the best for trq & hp).
Gear Ration 3.54 (faster excell, seat off pants & will make you better on the stick)
I suggest going with the best parts possible that your budget will allow, so when your ready to crack open your Viper's V10 you won't have to revisit this parts list again. Your Gen 2 with it's Competition Coupe 708 camshaft and factory forged pistons will respond to these basics quite well.
Good luck with your project & have some fun
Toddy
BAD BOYZZ GARAGE
Enthusiast
Excellent point Danino,
Go to an installer that you trust and who uses DANA parts not imported spin off's. Set up is critical for the diff, gears & what ever other modifications your having done to your pumpkin. This is most important and is a learned expertise. Your gear pattern is most important. Frozen gears will tend to howl, so I also have them polished to reduce this issue. Standard for our diff's are minimum polished. Do your homework.
I use only the best on our =BAD BOYZZ SERIES= differentials. Here is an example of BBG's World Challenge Spec Race Diff's. I also run this set-up personally in my Viper.
Toddy
=DISTRIBUTORS OF POWER=
Whine is almost always due to setup errors. The lash (meshing of gear teeth) has to be set up on 3 axis, at thousandths of an inch. Any mistakes, and you will get gear whine. Whine can happen 3 ways, with 3-axis: Accelerating, decelerating, or all the time! Once the teeth take a set, the whine is there to stay, unless you remove and polish the gearset with minimal improvement. Id chose a gear specialist, 4 x 4 shop, etc, to a "viper tech" that has NOT done them regularly. NOT ROCKET SCIENCE, but Experience matters. Or, you can have them pre-set up by experts, in your diff, or a diff for exhange.
Also: Cheap gears that do fit are offred on flea-bay for as little as $200 ! They Whine. The inferior metal of these off-shore sets WILL degrade and whine, and even do damage. DONT BUY CHEAP GEARS. USA-made, shot-peened, hardened gears (maybe even polished for less friction, heat, whine) are needed to handle the torque of a Viper....
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fqberful
Enthusiast
I got a complete Unitrax built diff with 3.55's and a Quaife differential and it runs dead quiet. And those guys do know how to build a rear end.
--FQB
Sweet Ride
Enthusiast
I have Supercharged and geared DD. Do it all!!!
43,000 miles on the supercharger and no issues to speak of. (other than a couple broken half shafts and a huge smile on my face every time I get into the car...)
I bought inexpensive gears for my 1999 and have a supercharger. No whine, no breaking or any other horrible story pushed on me at the time. I sent my expensive gear set up, back for other reasons, then money. (wrong parts) It's been so many years I forget how long they have been problem free. But I am sure it can be searched here.
Local old school shop (circa 40 years) said he has done a lot of rear ends like the Gen 2 viper, and its not a big deal or special. Just a good installation needed, which was cheap.
He was right!
Best bang for the buck, fun factor.
Headers = Worst. Stock manifolds are pretty good. What is behind it, is the problem...
Local old school shop (circa 40 years) said he has done a lot of rear ends like the Gen 2 viper, and its not a big deal or special. Just a good installation needed, which was cheap.
He was right!
Best bang for the buck, fun factor.
Headers = Worst. Stock manifolds are pretty good. What is behind it, is the problem...
JohnnyViper
Enthusiast
nitrous for cheap fast hp, Plum I checked out the nitrous threads but did not find a answer for one of my questions, how many shots can you get with a 10lbs bottle, i look forward to a nitrous setup soon 
eucharistos
Enthusiast
good thread
gotta love this car
gotta love this car
So, if you don't want to do gears, does that mean that 1.7 RR's is a good addition to a '98 having the better stock cam. Short of going for heads, exhaust done, wouldn't RR's get the most out of the cam? Add hardened pushrods.
I can't tell if the consensus is that HS 1.7 RR's are good for a realatively stock '98 motor. My car will never be up in the 600 hp range, so these should perform well, correct? There seem to be a number of guys who use them.
Crower, to me at least, seems to be a motorhead brand from the past...besides, they are almost the same cost as T&D's...sorry, don't mean to insult anyone who is running Crower now.
Opinions?
Thanks!
I can't tell if the consensus is that HS 1.7 RR's are good for a realatively stock '98 motor. My car will never be up in the 600 hp range, so these should perform well, correct? There seem to be a number of guys who use them.
Crower, to me at least, seems to be a motorhead brand from the past...besides, they are almost the same cost as T&D's...sorry, don't mean to insult anyone who is running Crower now.
Opinions?
Thanks!
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costanZo
Enthusiast
So, if you don't want to do gears, does that mean that 1.7 RR's is a good addition to a '98 having the better stock cam. Short of going for heads, exhaust done, wouldn't RR's get the most out of the cam? Add hardened pushrods.
I can't tell if the consensus is that HS 1.7 RR's are good for a realatively stock '98 motor. My car will never be up in the 600 hp range, so these should perform well, correct? There seem to be a number of guys who use them.
Crower, to me at least, seems to be a motohead brand from the past...besides, they are almost the same cost as T&D's.
Opinions?
Thanks!
I am also interested in hearing a response in regards to this since my 96 GTS also has the 708 cam stock.
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Though there may be other mods that have greater effect on hp, they are also more costly. At this point, I prefer to go slow on mods, with the intent of not doing too much. I had a discussion with Chuck and he felt that you get a little more out of your cam by moving to 1.7's. For me, it seems like the next likely thing to do, as my Roe hi-flows will be going on next week. Also, since '98 was the first year of tube headers, I'm not in a hurry to switch headers.
Thanks!
Thanks!
dave6666
Enthusiast
For every post you see saying HS or TD's are good you can find a post that says don't waste your time on anything but Jesels.
costanZo
Enthusiast
I'm busy at the moment at work and don't have time to run a search for Jessel RR. I prob will later, but If someone looks for one, can you please post a link to it.. thanks!
