Replacing Brake Pads......Have a couple of questions.

[CMilViper]

I am replacing my stock brake pads with the EBC Greens, and have never done brakes before by myself. Does anyone have a step by step guide on how to do this?

Also I noticed that the front rotors on my Viper have a very distinct lip going around the outside edge of the rotor. Is this normal or is this from the brake pad wearing down the center contact portion of the rotor?

Thanks for any help!

 

[SNAKE BITE]

I will be doing greens on my gen 1 this weekend also and any tips would be appreciated!

 

[Catwood]

If the rotor has a lip, get it turned.

Flush the fluid.

Fronts are very easy. I'm down to about 5 minutes per wheel that includes pulling the tire and changing pads. You;ll have to pull the caliper to remove the rotor..add 5 minutes. Local parts store should be able to turn them. it was $10 each for me in San Diego.



Rears are a bit more difficult as you have to pull the caliper to change pads. Those take about 15 minutes each.

Keep tabs as to how the clips come out.

The rear caliper pistons screw in, not pressed.

 

[CMilViper]

Thanks for the tips Catwood!

 

[ViperRay]

You should get the shop manual.

 

[B SNAKE 1]

you don't have to pull the calipers to change the rear pads!! pop the pin out... take a pair of needle nose insert into piston holes & rotate clock wise... install the inner pad first.. then the rotor... then the outer pad... noise clip... put the pin in. less then 15 minutes

 

[CMilViper]

Thanks guys...going at it tomorrow night.

 

[Jay Herbert]

you don't have to pull the calipers to change the rear pads!! pop the pin out... take a pair of needle nose insert into piston holes & rotate clock wise... install the inner pad first.. then the rotor... then the outer pad... noise clip... put the pin in. less then 15 minutes

"Small" needle nose's

You can also order a tool from Dodge (Miller #6366) that looks like this:

Or by a cheap socket and grind it to look the same (ViperMad did this, it worked great) The little pins are .125" in diameter, .150" long, and .780" center to center.

 

[BADMOFO]

I just replaced mine this week and this is how I did it.

Use metric tools.

Fronts:

1. Jack up car and place on jack stands. Next remove all four Wheels.
2. On the back of your spindle, remove the bolt that holds the caliper brake line.
3. Remove the 2 bolts that hold the caliper.
4. Slide caliper off and then remove the rotor.
5. Remove master cylinder cap and place a very clean shop towel over the opening to collect any fluid that may leak out.
6. Lay caliper on a flat surface and use a small punch to knock out the two pins. Note: Knock out the pins on the side with the smaller hole. Also remember how the metal clip is positioned.
7. Compress all 4 pistons in by hand, may be a little tricky but can be done. May take a few minutes.
8. Clean caliper off.
9. Get your new front EBC's and cut the two wires off.
10. Remove the aluminum sticky tape that is on the back them.
11. Apply HI-Temp Never seize on the caliper were the pad travels on. Note: A very Light film is only needed.
12. Insert Pads in caliper and reassemble. Note also put Never seize on pins.

Rears:

1. Make sure E- brake is not engaged.
2. Use a pair on needle nose pliers and remove the E-brake cable from the caliper.
3. Remove the two bolts that hold the caliper in place. Note: One is an Allen cap and the other is hex.
4. Lay the caliper down and remove the two pins as describe earlier. Note: Remember how the spring goes back in.
5. Remove old pads and clean caliper.
6. Use the special tool to turn in the piston or if you don’t have the tool use a pair of sturdy needle nose pliers.
7. Apply HI-Temp Never seize on the caliper were the pad travels on. Note: A very Light film is only needed.
8. Remove aluminum sticky tape from pads and reassemble.

Once you get done reassembling your calipers go get your rotors turned at your local brake shop.

Good luck and I hope this helps.

 

[Catwood]

you don't have to pull the calipers to change the rear pads!! pop the pin out... take a pair of needle nose insert into piston holes & rotate clock wise... install the inner pad first.. then the rotor... then the outer pad... noise clip... put the pin in. less then 15 minutes

For the life of me I can't figure out (in my head) how I'd pull the rear pads without pulling the caliper. How will the slide out from inbetween the rotor and the caliper? I'd love to know since it would really be a time saver for me as often as I change pads back and forth.

thanks,
Carl

 

[FrankBarba]

you don't have to pull the calipers to change the rear pads!! pop the pin out... take a pair of needle nose insert into piston holes & rotate clock wise... install the inner pad first.. then the rotor... then the outer pad... noise clip... put the pin in. less then 15 minutes

For the life of me I can't figure out (in my head) how I'd pull the rear pads without pulling the caliper. How will the slide out from inbetween the rotor and the caliper? I'd love to know since it would really be a time saver for me as often as I change pads back and forth.

thanks,
Carl

You have to pull the caliper. the pistons need to be screwed in before you will get your pads to fit.

 

[ViperRay]

You remove the rear ROTORS to replace the pads.
The rotor slides out after you remove the old pads.

Then you put the rotors back in after you screw the pistons in and before the new pads.

 

[ruckdr]

You do not need to remove the rear calipers, I repeat, YOU DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE THE REAR CALIPERS.
Remove the pins, noise spring, and pads. Remove the rotor - you may need to rotate the hub to get the wheel studs in the correct position for the rotor to come off. Screw in the piston as described above, long nose pliers or tool.
Try it you will like it !!

Later,

 

[CMilViper]

Thanks Jay!

Wow, thanks a lot BADMOFO! I appreciate it!

Also thanks ViperRay, Ruckdr, Frank, and again catwood.

 

[Catwood]

You do not need to remove the rear calipers, I repeat, YOU DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE THE REAR CALIPERS.
Remove the pins, noise spring, and pads. Remove the rotor - you may need to rotate the hub to get the wheel studs in the correct position for the rotor to come off. Screw in the piston as described above, long nose pliers or tool.
Try it you will like it !!

Later,

I will try it and if it works I'll toast you when I'm done.

Thanks,
carl

 

[carguy07]

Here are some helpful pics: http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=4111847&a=30671577&f=0

 

[SNAKE BITE]

10. Remove the aluminum sticky tape that is on the back them.

Am I supose to remove the whole aluminum piece or just a film of the back? The original pads have that aluminum piece on them? Thanks

 

[SNAKE BITE]

Done
I left the aluminum tape piece on the back of the pads since the originals had them also(fronts) original rears did not have the aluminum tape but I left it anyway, as I didn't see a reason it would matter.
Thanks for all the help!

PS. I did NOT remove the rear calipers. just the rotor

 

[CMilViper]

I finished mine tonight as well...Very easy indeed.

Thanks everyone.

 

[Catwood]

I just (finally) put my street pads back on the car today. I did not rememve the rear calipers and it worked perfect. I would never have guessed it would slip apart and therfore would never have tried. Saved a good 20 minutes or more.

Thanks all!

 

[PhoenixGTS]

I was looking at Carguy07's pics (thanks I will be going at this soon on my car) and thinking isn't it pathetic how small the pads are on the rear of a GennI/II Viper? Crazy small.