Siezed Up Motor Mount Nuts, HELP!

[ZexZo6]

I am in the process of switching out my motor mounts while putting headers on my car (99 GTS). I have all access to the mounts, however the nuts are completely siezed up on it. I have tried penetrating spray, the longest breaker bar known to man(it will round off my extensions), my impact gun, and a lug nut star(it twists when I am trying to get them off as well.

The next step is for me to take my grinder and grind off the nut completely. If anyone else has any other ideas please let me know. I have spent 3 days alone trying to get these mother******s off and I am about to hit rock bottom.

 

[ACRsnake]

soak the hell out of them , leave for an hour , a couple of smacks with a hammer on the side of the nut and then its impact gun time . this should do it .

 

[Red Snake]

soak the hell out of them , leave for an hour , a couple of smacks with a hammer on the side of the nut and then its impact gun time . this should do it .

This^^^. Use lots of penetrating oil and let it soak in overnight.

 

[LifeIsGood]

This^^^. Use lots of penetrating oil and let it soak in overnight.

Plus 1 for...let it soak overnight and hit it with a hammer a couple of times to break it loose.

 

[ZexZo6]

Any particular types of penitrating oil works better? I have used WD-40 for the past 3 days. I will definately try the hammer later today(With Pleasure)!

 

[VJR3]

PB BLASTER is by far the best penetrating spray out there. We do are own mantianance on are two plow trucks and after a season everything is really rusted due to the salt and that stuff does the trick. Use that and then get the hammer

 

[Viper Wizard]

Very carefully warm up the nut with a torch, not red hot just enough to expand the nut. Then it will come right off!

 

[Big Al]

The owner of an antique wrecking yard told me that to loosen a rusted fitting, try tightening it a little first as that will break the rust and then penetrating oil.

 

[ZexZo6]

PB BLASTER is by far the best penetrating spray out there. We do are own mantianance on are two plow trucks and after a season everything is really rusted due to the salt and that stuff does the trick. Use that and then get the hammer

I'll definately get some PB after work today.

Very carefully warm up the nut with a torch, not red hot just enough to expand the nut. Then it will come right off!

Awesome idea with the torch, I'll get one of those as well and light her up!

The owner of an antique wrecking yard told me that to loosen a rusted fitting, try tightening it a little first as that will break the rust and then penetrating oil.

Tried that too, it just stayed the same...

 

[DanielR]

An overnight soak with PB Blaster and an impact wrench worked great for me.

 

[GTLaser]

If all fails get a nut breaker, have them at Sears.

Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more

 

[Red Snake]

I'll definately get some PB after work today.



Awesome idea with the torch, I'll get one of those as well and light her up!



Tried that too, it just stayed the same...

Be careful torching it after you've sprayed it with penetrating oil (flammable).

 

[97snk]

Be careful torching it after you've sprayed it with penetrating oil (flammable).

I would take this man's advice...

 

[99 R/T 10]

Mine just broke completely off. Then they came out real easy........................

 

[ZexZo6]

If all fails get a nut breaker, have them at Sears.

Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more

I am definately going to pick one of the up too. I'll use it right before I will resort to grinding it off.

Be careful torching it after you've sprayed it with penetrating oil (flammable).

I thought of that, I'll have to wipe the stuff off really good. I'll probably hit it with some brake part cleaner to break the oil down and then let it dry before I start heating it up.

Mine just broke completely off. Then they came out real easy........................

I almost wish mine would have broken off, lol!

 

[Steve-Indy]

Many feel WD-40 is "weak".

Use a REAL penetrating oil such as Schaeffer Penetro 90 Penetrating Oil or Kroil....soak it, leave it, re-soak gfor a couple of times and you might be pleasantly surprised.

 

[ZexZo6]

Many feel WD-40 is "weak".

Use a REAL penetrating oil such as Schaeffer Penetro 90 Penetrating Oil or Kroil....soak it, leave it, re-soak gfor a couple of times and you might be pleasantly surprised.

I'll definately get another penitrating spray, if I see one of those I'll pick it up!

 

[Dom426h]

I have spent 3 days alone trying to get these mother******s off and I am about to hit rock bottom.

I know how you feal. All of us DIY'ers have been there. Some more often than others(like myself)


Before doing my mounts i remember reading this thread:
http://forums.viperclub.org/rt-10-gts-discussions/635057-pia-changing-engine-mounts-weekend.html
and prepared for the worst.
Ended up taking me and a buddy about 4hrs to knock em out on a lift. The hardest part was getting the new mounts to fit back in as the motor was jacked up untill the headers(B&B) made contact with the frame and each mount took a half hr of finagilin to get in. Without my friend it would have taken me a weekend and i cant imagine doing this job without a lift.

 

[Dom426h]

add to that, i used the Mopar Penetrating fluid that my local friendly vipertech gave to me as when i told him i was going to tackle the job he said, 'u'll need this, its the most effective penetrating stuff'

I sprayed everything down twice a couple hours apart the night before. Then once at work the next day. Then again as soon as we got her on the lift.

 

[ZexZo6]

I know how you feal. All of us DIY'ers have been there. Some more often than others(like myself)


Before doing my mounts i remember reading this thread:
http://forums.viperclub.org/rt-10-gts-discussions/635057-pia-changing-engine-mounts-weekend.html
and prepared for the worst.
Ended up taking me and a buddy about 4hrs to knock em out on a lift. The hardest part was getting the new mounts to fit back in as the motor was jacked up untill the headers(B&B) made contact with the frame and each mount took a half hr of finagilin to get in. Without my friend it would have taken me a weekend and i cant imagine doing this job without a lift.

I read that thread too, but felt helpless when they still wouldn't come off.

I might just go the way of the nut ******* to get tops and bottoms off while on the car. Anyway I look at it I am dreading messing with them again today. I am doing this by myself and on Jack Stands; however I am replacing the headers at the same time, giving me more room/clearance to get them on and off.

 

[Dom426h]

Jackstands!!?!? Holy cow. I feal for you man...

It took a 3-4' breaker bar for me. I assume that will not fit under your car.
I know exactly what your thinking right now. "Man if only i lived near woodhouse or viper specialty or Tators I would have glady paid them a couple hundred bucks to knock this job out in a couple hours and know it was done right..."



although when its all said and done im partly glad i dont live near anyone reputable since it forces me to learn and put more of my personal blood sweat and tears into the viper. Partly made possible by talking with yall on the VCA forums and the one and only Wizard

 

[Big Al]

I would definetely NOT clean the nuts with brake cleaner if you are going to heat them up. Brake cleaners have some very nasty chemical (some have trichloroethane) and the burning will release some vapours that can damage your lungs, kidneys etc. I read an article by a welder that had used brake cleaner before welding on a fuel tank and the burning vapours sent him to the hospital.

 

[AFL in NJ]

PB Blaster has worked great for me in the past. I had an axle nut on my Chrysler 300M that took an 18" breaker bar (1/2" inch size) with the entire shaft of my jack attached to it to break that nut loose and a 225lb buddy doing the levering....we guess it was torqued at 400lb/ft. I'm hoping your motor mounts are WAY less than that.

Regards,
Aaron

 

[Phun70]

I would have to say that Conklin products make the best penetrating oils and rust busters. We use it at my shop all the time. When you use the rust bomb product you can actually see the rust "sizzle" I have also used PB blaster, but this stuff blows that away! The other product is called luboil and it's also fantastic!!!

 

[ZexZo6]

Jackstands!!?!? Holy cow. I feal for you man...

It took a 3-4' breaker bar for me. I assume that will not fit under your car.
I know exactly what your thinking right now. "Man if only i lived near woodhouse or viper specialty or Tators I would have glady paid them a couple hundred bucks to knock this job out in a couple hours and know it was done right..."



although when its all said and done im partly glad i dont live near anyone reputable since it forces me to learn and put more of my personal blood sweat and tears into the viper. Partly made possible by talking with yall on the VCA forums and the one and only Wizard

My goal on this car is to do as close to 100% of the maintenance/upgrades by myself. So far by doing this I have become very intimate with the underside of my car and in the sides of the engine compartments. But, I know exactly what you mean.

I would definetely NOT clean the nuts with brake cleaner if you are going to heat them up. Brake cleaners have some very nasty chemical (some have trichloroethane) and the burning will release some vapours that can damage your lungs, kidneys etc. I read an article by a welder that had used brake cleaner before welding on a fuel tank and the burning vapours sent him to the hospital.

Thanks for the heads up, I definately won't use the brake part cleaner then! I'll try doing the nut cutter way first.

PB Blaster has worked great for me in the past. I had an axle nut on my Chrysler 300M that took an 18" breaker bar (1/2" inch size) with the entire shaft of my jack attached to it to break that nut loose and a 225lb buddy doing the levering....we guess it was torqued at 400lb/ft. I'm hoping your motor mounts are WAY less than that.

Regards,
Aaron

I don't know what they are torqued to, but it has to be too damn much! There were a couple of times I thought I would going to knock the car off the jack stands trying to break the nuts loose...

 

[ZexZo6]

Well, off to Sears I go, wish me luck tonight...

-Penetraging spray
-Torque Wrench
-Blow Torch
-More Rachet/Sockett extensions (Replacing the broken ones)
-Nut Breaker, Both Sizes
-Possibly 3/4 inch drive Ratchet Setup
-CRC Brand QD Electronic Cleaner Spray (To clean O2 Sensors while they are out)

 

[99 R/T 10]

If you need more leverage and have a Aluminum low profile jack, the handle should come in 2 pieces. Take the top part off and use it as an extender on the ratchet or torque wrench.

 

[Black Moon]

Try tightening them before loosening them. Sometimes it breaks them free.

 

[Ricketts]

Soooo........... Did you get them broke loose Joe?

 

[MTGTS]

If you need more leverage and have a Aluminum low profile jack, the handle should come in 2 pieces. Take the top part off and use it as an extender on the ratchet or torque wrench.

That's what I did