slave cylinder replacement questions

[jory]

I have to replace the slave cylinder on my 04.

Question 1: I purchased a 2004 Viper service manual and it says to use only DOT 4 clutch fluid but the cap on the clutch reservoir said use only DOT 3. Any thoughts on what would be the right thing to do here?

Question 2: I'm confused about the inverted bladder located in the clutch reservoir. Does the clutch fluid go into the bladder or should I take the bladder out and then fill up the reservoir?

Question 3: I purchased the car in March '15 with 4k orig miles and zero modifications and I have already replaced the A/C compressor (viper tech said seals on compressor were cracked due to inoperability) and now the slave cylinder is out. I think I'm having these issues because the car probably sat up for an extended period of time without being driven nor started very much over the years. do these issues seem consistent with an 11 year old car with so few miles? Any idea on what else I can expect to go wrong as a result of long term inoperability?

Thank you in advance - you folks sure are a helpful bunch and any thoughts/comments are appreciated.

 

[Steve-Indy]

Vipers starting using dot 4 brake fluid in the clutch in 1999...yet all of the clutch reservoir caps through 2010 say dot 3. Remove the rubber diaphragm, **** out old fluid, clean black grit from reservoir, fill with new dot 4 fluId...now, you are ready to bleed system watching reservoir level closely. I hoPe your m/c is ok. Change all fluids if not already done. I hope that you changed all of the a/c "o" rings as well.

 

[jory]

Thank you Steve-Indy

 

[Steve-Indy]

On another issue, check your harmonic damper bolt to be sure it is not loose. This is prudent to do on all Vipers periodically, but mandatory to do on 04's...with smaller, lower torque bolt. A search of "crank damper bolt" here might be helpful.

 

[jory]

Will do - thanks again!

 

[Viper X]

Once you get through the stuff that isn't working properly due to the car sitting for such a long period of time, you should be good to go.

Are the OE tires still on the car? If so, they will be very hard and won't give you very good traction. Replace them if you can.

Wiper blades will be toast.

Serpentine belt may be cracked and stiff.

I'd bleed the brakes too.

Dan

 

[jory]

Still have OEM tires or "hockey pucks". Serpentine was replaced when I replaced a/c compressor. I'll get tires once the OEM are slick. Those things are pricey! Will bleed brakes while I'm at it. Thanks for the tips!

 

[Viper X]

Still have OEM tires or "hockey pucks". Serpentine was replaced when I replaced a/c compressor. I'll get tires once the OEM are slick. Those things are pricey! Will bleed brakes while I'm at it. Thanks for the tips!

I would not wait that long to replace the "hockey pucks" you have for tires. They are much worse in cooler weather, downright dangerous in cold weather.

While you are at it, your diff fluid and trans fluid should be replaced too.....

 

[Bird325]

Jory, If you wait until your tires have the tread all gone, you're probably going to have an 'issue' that will cause you to regret that decision. The original tires are way too old to rely on for safe traction when you least expect it (and likely, MOST need it!). Considering the car sitting for a large part of its life, you might as well replace the fuel filter also.

 

[jory]

Thanks Bird325. I hear ya on the tires. I'm only driving locally until i get all the bugs worked out. they have plenty of tread but they are hard as a rock which sort of makes it fun power sliding around corners. If I had an extra $1k lying around I would probably pull the trigger but I don't so, I'm going to have to chance it for the short term.

the fuel filter idea is also a great idea - I can swing this one!

thanks again,

 

[AZTVR]

Still have OEM tires or "hockey pucks". Serpentine was replaced when I replaced a/c compressor. I'll get tires once the OEM are slick. Those things are pricey! Will bleed brakes while I'm at it. Thanks for the tips!

So, sounds like you will be a few years before getting new tires. The nice thing about old hard rubber is that there is hardly any friction to wear off the rubber, or keep you going in the direction you would like. Talk to JonB at Parts Rack and ask how many Vipers he has encountered which he thinks wrecked due to loss of traction. This is the worst car in the world to cheap out on tires on. Your post is not uncommon, and I assume that you bought the car for the looks rather than to enjoy the performance. Performance oriented owners hated the hardness of the run flat tires when they were new !

Just be VERY careful out there !!!

 

[Morketh]

On another issue, check your harmonic damper bolt to be sure it is not loose. This is prudent to do on all Vipers periodically, but mandatory to do on 04's...with smaller, lower torque bolt. A search of "crank damper bolt" here might be helpful.

Hi Steve,
I saw your post about the crank damper bolt on another post and you were checking the 2006 Coupe.
Can you verify that this pic is the crank damper bolt for me please?

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I just checked that quite large bolt with my hand (I didn't lift it up yet) and it is at least hand tight because I can't budge it one way or the other. Do you recommend I lift the car up and get under there with a wrench to check and make sure it is torqued to 130 ft lbs? I am not even sure I have a socket to fit that.

 

[Steve-Indy]

You are correct...and, it takes a 1 1/4 inch socket...torque to 250 ft. lbs.

ONLY the 2004 smaller bolt (head takes 13/16 inch socket) torques to 130 ft.lbs.

 

[Morketh]

You are correct...and, it takes a 1 1/4 inch socket...torque to 250 ft. lbs.

ONLY the 2004 smaller bolt (head takes 13/16 inch socket) torques to 130 ft.lbs.

Thanks a million!