Stereo Time...

[got one]

To all your RT/10 folks...i am looking to upgrade my stereo system in the following way:
1. replace subs (anyone have the demensions on these guys so I can go hunt down new subs???)
2. add amp for subs (possibly utilize the existing amp as it is already powering the stock subs in addition to the rest of the door speakers).
3. Also need a schematic of how these wires are run so I don't have to reinvent the wheel here...

What I already have:
1. amp powering the upgraded door speaker sets and stock subs (subs are split to a right and left channel)
2. upgraded deck

Thanks in advance guys!!!

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

I wouldn't go too hog wild. The RT/10 is not conducive to good acoustics.

 

[got one]

I wouldn't go too hog wild. The RT/10 is not conducive to good acoustics.

Your right...not looking for anything to go into the trunk...just want as much base as I can get without modifications...well, for a reasonable price. I was quoted $500 for a set of replacement subs...

 

[jasontiff]

Here is the way it should be wired up if you have 2 amps. There are other things you can add in there, but this is how mine is done.

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The 4 14 gauge RCA cables are run out through a grommet in the passenger footwell and through the transmission tunnel and wrapped in some Summit high-heat wire wraps. They go to my amp in the trunk through another grommet I cut in the trunk. The return stereo wires go through the same way and when done, they're all restrained with some bolts and brackets.

It's a PITA to run the the wires through the factory sleeves in the doors without tearing them but I tried anyway. One was already torn, one wasn't. Though it said not to mount the crossovers in the doors I did anyway because I wasn't going to be able to run another set of cables through the sleeve.

I bought marine-rated speakers because they're designed to go on wakeboarding boats and are resistant to water and sun (perfect for an RT). Mine are Polk-Momo components all around though I can't say I recommend them; they were in less than a year before a tweeter went out. It's being replaced under the 3 year warranty but it's annoying to have a giant hole in my door while I wait for a replacement.

 

[got one]

Jason, do you have left, right AND sub outs? I do in my current head unit. OR did you simply put one sub on your left channel and the other on your right channel?

 

[got one]

oh...and AWESOME drawing...where did you put the bomb though?

 

[jasontiff]

The bomb goes in the trunk...if it drops under 150mph Dennis Hopper blows up my car. CUT THE BLUE WIRE...NO, THE RED!

As far as the outs, I think I just ran the front/rear out of the head unit. I put components in the doors and put full-range speakers between the seats, so they're not subs but they have most of the lows going to them via my EQ.

Truth is, you won't hear any bass in a Viper, especially in an RT, especially in a Gen. I with sidepipes. Full-range speakers are more functional in our car. Plus, you won't get much bass out of a 6.5" sub anyway. Just my $.02.

 

[kevin96rt]

I just added a footwell sub in my Rt waiting on the amp to see how it sounds

 

[jasontiff]

I just added a footwell sub in my Rt waiting on the amp to see how it sounds

There is a guy down here with an RT that did the same thing. We have tons of leg room but I wonder how much you'll actually hear it? In a car like ours that's a LONG way to travel.

Ryan, can't you just cut into the gas tank behind the seat and put some 15s in? Maybe Dave can help you fab something up?

 

[kevin96rt]

There is a guy down here with an RT that did the same thing. We have tons of leg room but I wonder how much you'll actually hear it? In a car like ours that's a LONG way to travel.

I put a 10in the footwell should have no prob hearing it and will definatley feel it.You are right though hard to get a great sound in a RT... but the sub should help

 

[2snakes4us]

take out the sub box with subs and build new box and insert one Sub Pioneer Premier TS-Sw841D 8" sub woofer Max 500watt Nominale 120 watt
4 ohms . It will fit without cutting or damage to the car. it will give you far more than you need.

 

[1994viper]

I also have a similar set-up to what “jasontiff” posted (2x8s, Mids and Twiters) and a great, Alpine MP3 deck. All came with a car when I bought it. For some reason, I cannot get myself to listen to any music, as I tend to enjoy listening to a wide variety of sounds, which side pipes put out instead. I am thinking of removing the stereo all together, and save on some weight. Or maybe I am just spoiled. I used to have 3x12s + 2x10s in my 87 Tarns Am, but I think, it would be no substitute to the strait pipe on a Viper still.

 

[kevin96rt]

take out the sub box with subs and build new box and insert one Sub Pioneer Premier TS-Sw841D 8" sub woofer Max 500watt Nominale 120 watt
4 ohms . It will fit without cutting or damage to the car. it will give you far more than you need.

I looked at that option and used the search function and most seemed to favor the footwell sub for best bass.(along with local stereo shops)I stripped my interior to get it refinished and yes the is PlENTY of room for an 8" shallow between the seats.

Building the footwell box is no easy task(if you do it right) and I'm a carpenter by trade.Will post pics when all is complete
.

 

[dave6666]

Cut my wife's feet off?

Modify the T panel...



Cut my wife's feet off?

Modify the T panel...



Cut my wife's feet off?

Modify the T panel...



Cut my wi.......

 

[Mad Max 93 RT10]

I wouldn't go too hog wild. The RT/10 is not conducive to good acoustics.

Just wait!! I'm going to blow peoples minds with my RT!!! your going to think I shoved subs up your A##! Good luck finding them though. MOO HAA HAA HAA!!

 

[got one]

Thanks guys.

So what are the demensions of the subs? If I want to replace with just regular speakers and not subs, then I am trying to determine what my options are...given I can keep the stock look with the stock speaker grills...

 

[Vman455]

The subs are 6.5". You'll have a lot of choices if you go with full-range, but subwoofers that small are scarce. I recently replaced my stock subs with Kicker CVT654's. MBQuart makes a 6.5", and so does Lanzar, but I don't know of anyone who has put them in. JL Audio also makes a 6.5" (6w3), but the magnet is too long to fit in the stock location. The older JL 6w0 will fit if the rubber surround on the magnet is removed, if you can find it.

Edit: Re-reading your post, I guess you're not looking for subwoofers...any 6 1/2" or 6 3/4" speaker with a mounting hole diameter of 5.5" or less will fit. Four-hole mount if you don't want to drill new holes, diameter between holes 6.125".

 

[Big Mac]

I think I am still set up with some stereo wholesalers in San Antonio, give me a call Monday and I will check with them and find out. I can also help with the install if needed.

 

[-FROG-]

If the gas tank wasn't directly behind the seat.... you could install a sub in the trunk and run a few port holes to bring the bass into the cabin. That would be really cool.

I had a pretty cool system in my RT/10 a while back. I had an 8" sub in the passanger footwell and a few amps running everything. It was NICE and cars would hear me bassin at stop lights. BUT for passangers, they lost a good 12" of foot space. So it comes with a cost.

Below was all out the most attractive setup for my car I think. Although there was not much bass at all. There just isn't any baffeling to produce any bass in an RT. The footwell is about the only option.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[costanZo]

DO NOT buy subs for your trunk.... complete waste of money on RT/10

Just buy high quality speakers, head receiver.

To all your RT/10 folks...i am looking to upgrade my stereo system in the following way:
1. replace subs (anyone have the demensions on these guys so I can go hunt down new subs???)
2. add amp for subs (possibly utilize the existing amp as it is already powering the stock subs in addition to the rest of the door speakers).
3. Also need a schematic of how these wires are run so I don't have to reinvent the wheel here...

What I already have:
1. amp powering the upgraded door speaker sets and stock subs (subs are split to a right and left channel)
2. upgraded deck

Thanks in advance guys!!!

 

[got one]

The subs are 6.5". You'll have a lot of choices if you go with full-range, but subwoofers that small are scarce. I recently replaced my stock subs with Kicker CVT654's. MBQuart makes a 6.5", and so does Lanzar, but I don't know of anyone who has put them in. JL Audio also makes a 6.5" (6w3), but the magnet is too long to fit in the stock location. The older JL 6w0 will fit if the rubber surround on the magnet is removed, if you can find it.

Edit: Re-reading your post, I guess you're not looking for subwoofers...any 6 1/2" or 6 3/4" speaker with a mounting hole diameter of 5.5" or less will fit. Four-hole mount if you don't want to drill new holes, diameter between holes 6.125".

thanks! Demensions are important. But yes, won't be subs...will be normal speakers I would like to be able to keep my stock speaker grills...anyone running aftermarket speakers wih the stock speaker grills?

 

[2snakes4us]

thanks! Demensions are important. But yes, won't be subs...will be normal speakers I would like to be able to keep my stock speaker grills...anyone running aftermarket speakers wih the stock speaker grills?

Yes. use the pioneer sub i posted earlier. just build a box like what holds the 2 subs now and cut only 1 hole in box for new sub. place sub between "old" stock grills. that is what was done in mine by a pro. i watched him do the install. I did not want anything cut up so i can go back to stock. it is a tight fit but works great!

 

[jk]

I did this to my RT/10 about a year ago. Went with the JL Audio drop in center sub replacement. Took a while to find the right door speakers with a small enough crossover to mount safely inside the door - there is not a whole lot of room in there. Also, went with a four channel amp that I run ch 3/4 in mono for the sub. I wanted to keep the amp in the trunk in the same location as the stock amp, which also limited my choices. Ran all new wire from head unit, to doors, to sub, to trunk going through grommeted opening in floor to same entry location in trunk. Mounted fuse block in trunk wall next to amp. All wires under the car were sleeved and cable tied securely. It is a pain, but with the car on a lift it was managable. Would be a real pain if I had to do it on jack-stands. Went with an Alpine head unit (not my first choice), but it uses the same mounting as the factory unit so it was an easy drop in. Ran a cable to the center glove box for my iPod connection. As mentioned previously, did not go hog wild on components since acoustics are extremely poor in an RT/10.

One recommendation though - for an RT/10 with the top off, you want a head unit with a very bright display. The Alpine I use washes out in bright light and is hard to see.

 

[jasontiff]

Correction: You don't have to worry about finding a small crossover for your Gen. I; we have TONS of space in there with no windows. You could probably mount an amp in there with all the room we have!

 

[jk]

Oh yeah... missed that part about a Gen I...