Ticking noise (ACR_Girl stated "Sounds like a playing card in the bike spokes")

am.mscl

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Yesterday we swapped out the 1 year old Bosch Battery the previous owner had in the car for a new one to solve a starting problem.
The Bosch tested 584 CCA with 12.55 Volts.

Well last night I took the 2001 ACR out for a 15 minute spin and when I pulled into the garage and parked, I could hear a slight ticking noise.
I did not try to search for the location of the ticking and figure I would check on it later.
This morning ACR_Girl goes to Boot Camp and on the way home calls and tells me she hears the ticking and describes it sounding like a playing card in the bike spokes like kids used to do.

We never heard this ticking prior to the new battery.

Any thoughts?
thanks
Ray
 

bluesrt

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could be a servo motor of some sort freaking out in the dash- try to disconnect the batt again for 15 min with everything off first before disconnect and c if that helps
 
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am.mscl

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The oil was just changed over the weekend but I have not checked the level; they suppose to have put in 10 quarts. 9550 miles on the car!
The battery was out of the car for over an hour from taking the old one out and going to have it tested (then running to a 2nd store that had the battery in stock) and then eat dinner then put the new one in.
I will check the oil level and try to figure out where the ticking is coming from tonight.
Thanks
Ray
 

Boxer12

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Whenever you take the battery out you need to reset the throttle..turn car on (don't start) and put pedal to the floor about 6 times. Prob unrelated, but thought I would mention it.
 

bluesrt

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so is the dam thing ticking running or not running
 

2001-V10 Power Nut

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Just a thought, if it only happens when driving, i had a cracked rotor once, make a ticking noise, took me forever to figure out where it was coming from, and it did not affect my braking
 
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am.mscl

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Just a thought, if it only happens when driving, i had a cracked rotor once, make a ticking noise, took me forever to figure out where it was coming from, and it did not affect my braking

Interesting!
We can still hear the ticking when parked in the garage or at a light with the engine just idling.
If it was only while we were moving then I could say that would be something to check.
 

bluesrt

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well the fuel injectors tick normally- any good vet mechanic will tell you pretty much right off the top if he can hear it in real form, lifter,rod,manifold exhaust,loose plug,egr tube to manifold, ect-----evan a head gasket blown by the cylinder wall could do it-
 
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am.mscl

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Ok oil is at the top of the full section on the dipstick.

The sound is more of a clattering and seems to be on the front driver section of the engine.
At 1500 Rpms and above it goes away! But it does speed up as the engine speeds up from idle to 1500, then goes quiet.
It sounds like a lifter/rocker is lose.

Also I found a ground ******** the same side of the motor that is under the cowl that has one side not connected.
Ray
 
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am.mscl

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Anyone know where the loose side is suppose to be connected to?
It is on the back side of the engine on the driver side.
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Thanks
Ray
 

JohnnyViper

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the ground connector looks familiar, in the beginning of spring I replaced my plugs and wires and needed to take off the plastic piece that runs along the windshield and under you wipers to access the distributor, there was a ground wire that attached to a mounting stud for this plastic piece. If this is in fact the same ground wire it need to be attached behind the plastic piece to establish a good ground
 

ViperTony

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The ground connector in the pic connects to the screw securing the cowl to the metal arm. When remove the screw from that arm, you'll see that the arm has a square/flat top. Screwn the ground strap so it sits between the cowl and arm. Done. It looks like perhaps the cowl was removed at one point maybe to change out the plug wires? The coil packs are at the rear of the engine and removing the cowl allows easier access to them.
 
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am.mscl

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Well I pulled the valve cover off hoping to find a broken valve spring or a bent pushrod. No luck with finding one of those.
Now the engine light on the dash is lite up. I am guessing the Viper will be going to ART next week.
 

speedracervr4

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Do you have a code reader? It's a good tool to have and are pretty cheap at Sears. Reading the code may give you more insight to what the problem is.
 
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am.mscl

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A friend came over and we got a P1297 - No Change in MAP From Start To Run (according to google finding a dodge code website).
I did disconnect the MAP sensor to pull the valve cover so that might be why the engine light came on.
It is connected backup.
Ray
 

-FROG-

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*EDIT*

-Just saw your Facebook post that you messed with the MAP sensor today. So that may explain a few things below but if I'm right, the Ground wire was found "before" you messed with the MAP sensor, so still consider some of the things I mentioned below.

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Ray, from the scan we got tonight and the sound of it, I REALLY think it's going to be electronic related and nothing major. I doubt you guys broke anything babying the car around. (Also, for others tuning in to this thread, it sounds like an exhaust leak and running like there is a spark plug wire off or not firing.)

I did see the same thing you saw for the code when using GOOGLE - "P1297 No Change in MAP From Start To Run"

Also the flat Ground Wire in the pictures above, is evidence that something was tinkered with in that area at some point. That wire may connect to either the back of the cylinder head, chassis ground or it may be the other end of the ground wire that sometimes goes to the fiberglass hood itself. (Sometimes the fiberglass hood is grounded to prevent any "static electricity" interference with the "spark" components controlled by the computer.) Finding that wire is a good thing.Finding out the code is related to MAP sensor is a good thing. Knowing that lose wire is right next to the MAP sensor is a GREAT thing to help us debug this issue.

So with these factors in mind and the evidence at hand, that area should be the main focus for inspection. There are quite a few wires in that area and vacuum lines associated with the MAP sensor (that's what I was feeling around there for tonight). I don't mind coming by there again to help debug this as I have worked pretty extensively with Viper electronics over the years... Also, if I get my car back from the paint shop anytime soon, possibly within a week, then I can bring my MAP Sensor over there to swap out and confirm or eliminate that as a problem.

To gain access to the MAP sensor area - Open the hood and the doors. You need to remove the 4 short sized screws holding on that flimsy black piece called the "Cowl" that wraps around the engine area directly under the windshield. Removing that helps out ALOT. This will help you find where that Ground wire goes too.

Coincidentally, the MAP sensor wires are what you use to install a ROE "VEC 1" tuner to (the original ROE tuner and possibly Vec 2 & 3?). Even though your car "looks" stock, people still tinker with "budget" mods for that extra few horsepower. I wouldn't be surprised if that is the case here and the original owner didn't put things back the way they should be (hence the Ground wire). I used to have a VEC 1 so I know that area of the car well.

Let me know if you guys find anything there and don't hesitate to call and have me come over to help out! I can come by again tomorrow after work to see if we can figure it out so you guys can make the Viper rally!

Paul Daniels -FROG-
 
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am.mscl

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Well this afternoon I go get and get a flexible LED Light, go home and pull the valve cover again to take a better look at the pushrods.
Found a scraped area on 1 of them for the #1 cylinder. Had a friend take a look at the same time to confirm what I saw.
We pull it out and confirmed it had been rubbing the head.
I have to give a big Thank You out to Chuck "The Wizard" Tator for helping out and sending me some stock take off pushrods and rockers.
Ray
 
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am.mscl

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Here are the pictures of the pushrod. Will do a compression test tomorrow.

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am.mscl

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Compression in #1 is 125 and #5 was 140.
Put a good pushrod from another cylinder in place of where the bent one was.
It had clearance. Now waiting for replacments
 

-FROG-

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Roll them suckers across a flat table and see how bad they wobble as they roll. Kitchen counter usually works great!
 

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