Track Day Brakes for Beginner

[MoparMap]

So I'm highly debating trying to make it to the last track day of the season for my local track and had a question regarding brakes. I've read a lot of the general prep for the track and the car seems to be in pretty good shape. I've changed pretty much all the fluids earlier this year (trans, diff, brakes, clutch) and my brakes and tires still look to have some pretty good life in them. Are the stock pads good enough for a first time out? I'm running on a set of SuperSports, so nothing too crazy in the traction department. If I ordered pads now I'd probably get them in time, but figured if the stockers were good for a first go I'd just stick with them since I likely won't be seeing any other track time in the near future. For what it's worth, I'll be driving to the track and back as I don't have a trailer, so I'd rather not get too agressive with compounds.

 

[Paul Hawker]

Stock brake pads are good for occasional track use. Pilot SuperSports also good. For tracks with heavy braking needs, upgrading the fluid to castrol or Motul are good first steps. This fluid is not compatible with the stock fluid, so a flush is necessary. Probably want to change it again after your track days.

Vipers often give a warning sign before the brakes fade away. If you feel your brakes going soft, come into the pits right away to let them cool down. (leave your car in gear and do not set your emergency brake as this can hot spot a rotor and feeds more heat into the brakes)

Each generation Viper has come with better braking. You should be fine with Gen III and above.

 

[MoparMap]

Didn't think about not setting the emergency brake on a hot rotor, that's a good thing to keep in mind. I put DOT4 in it at least when I flushed it not too long ago, will see how it holds up I guess. May pop the cap and take another look and see if it's still looking fresh.

 

[mjorgensen Woodhouse]

+1 on the parking brake, I even take it further and roll the car a few inches a couple times in the first 1/2 hour back in the paddock so the pads don't slow the even cooling of the rotors. Remember also that the thinner the pads get the less heat they can dissipate so fade will happen sooner and likely the fluid will get hotter sooner.

 

[Dom426h]

+1 woodhouse, I too roll my Viper back so the wheels move 1/4 turn after the car has been sitting for a few min if i know the brakes are Real hot. Also, i think this can be good for the tires as well as they are very soft when hot especially if a bunch of R-comp rubber is stuck to em. None of this is prob necessary though if you do a Real cool-down lap at the end of your session without out touching the brakes and staying on the line(to not pick up loose rubber)

MoparMap, I think stock pads are fine as long as your running street(non-rcomp) tires. I like to have atleast 50% material thickness and my fluid changed within a week or two of the trackday. I use Motul600 or Castrol GT LMA. Both of these can be run on the street, are reasonably priced, and have higher boiling points than the standard stuff like vavoline that most autostores carry. My NAPA keeps the Castrol in stock. Some performance shops keep the Motul in stock.

 

[TowDawg]

What others have said about the brake fluid and parking brake.
Stock pads should have plenty of bite, but make sure there is PLENTY of pad left. When you start getting under 50%, you will start building up more heat. I can only get one weekend out of brand new set, as I use up about 50% during the weekend. I had a bunch of half used pads last time I went, so I took them with me and changed them out over the weekend.
As for the actual pads to run, everyone has an opinion. I personally like the EBC yellows, as they provide good stopping power, but don't eat the rotors like most "all out" race pads tend to.

 

[Allan]

Stock pads are fine for a first time track day.

You don't want to try to over drive the car first time out anyway.

Track pads with street tires don't work that well any way. -don't ask how I know.

Have a great day and be safe.

 

[MtnBiker]

Good info here about wear on pads and heat!!! Thanks. I was at track two weekends ago (3rd weekend) and going again mid-October. So I will have pads replaced if necessary. Never thought of that. Oh yeah, OP, the stock pads are plenty good at novice level IMHO. I did boil clutch fluid last time out since I have headers.

 

[MoparMap]

Anyone know the stock pad thickness off the top of their head? I know I have a lot of miles on the pads, but most of them are highway, so not sure how much I've eaten through. Figured it wouldn't hurt to try to measure them and see where I stand.

 

[JoelW]

Brand new OEM Mopar is 12-13 mm or about 1/2 inch. You'll be fine if you have about 50% (on the plus side) of that. Just be smooth with your inputs and try to get an instructor familar with Corvettes or Vipers. I watched several folks spin at VOI coming off the banking at CMS and unloading the rear wheels. Since you are sitting right in front of the rear wheels, you don't have a lot of time to get notice the rear end is loose. Be sure and take a cool down lap if you can to cool your brakes. Have fun!!!

 

[bluesrt]

just look at them and use common sense, also, perform a cool down lap with out useing your brakes,this will terminate the problem of rolling your car back and forth in the pits, and keep from forming a build up of brake matter on your rotors so the next time you go on the track and hit the brakes,it doesnt feel like your landing a airplane.

 

[MoparMap]

I just thought I had heard that the stock pads were a little on thin side to begin with, so wanted a reference as to what I should be expecting. I've changed brakes on all sorts of cars, so I've seen anything from over 1/2" on a truck to probably more like 3/8" on some cars. Thanks for the numbers! I'll have to check mine out in the coming days.