Bill B
Enthusiast
What is the best for a 95? Redline,Royal Purple.........
Trans/Diff fluid
- Thread starter Bill B
- Start date
Martin
Enthusiast
I like to use Redline oils in everything. In the diff, I use Shockproof Heavy (it really quiets things down), and in the engine I use their 10W/40. From what I hear, their D4 ATF works quite well in the tranny.
Amsoil stuff is top-notch, too.
Amsoil stuff is top-notch, too.
Nadine UK GTS
Enthusiast
I'm sure you're aware but you must add the special LSD Viper axle additive too, each time you change it!
Brad Manhattan Beach
Viper Owner
Bill and Martin:
Be very cautious with using Redline in your transmissions. there is something that is in this oil that effects the fiber blocker rings in the T-56 transmissions (according to Tremac/Borg Warner). If you use this and the transmission goes on you, it will void your warranty.
Dodge recommends Castrol Syntorq and Dextron. I am trying Neo Racing fluids, that are 100% synthetic with higher operating temperatures. Neutral gear rattle is not present and the shifting seems to be pretty smooth. I can keep you posted on this if you are interested. I also replaced my Motul 600 with the Neo racing brake fluids for the same reason (higher operating temps). His motor oils do not break down after 3,000 miles of driving like Mobil 1.
Here is the site for Neo Oils:
http://www.bakerprecision.com/neo.htm
I hope that this helps. You can also contact Paul Baker at Neo, for feedback on how they compare to Royal Purple, Redline and Mobil 1 (and others). His oils are used in F1, CART and other applications.
Be very cautious with using Redline in your transmissions. there is something that is in this oil that effects the fiber blocker rings in the T-56 transmissions (according to Tremac/Borg Warner). If you use this and the transmission goes on you, it will void your warranty.
Dodge recommends Castrol Syntorq and Dextron. I am trying Neo Racing fluids, that are 100% synthetic with higher operating temperatures. Neutral gear rattle is not present and the shifting seems to be pretty smooth. I can keep you posted on this if you are interested. I also replaced my Motul 600 with the Neo racing brake fluids for the same reason (higher operating temps). His motor oils do not break down after 3,000 miles of driving like Mobil 1.
Here is the site for Neo Oils:
http://www.bakerprecision.com/neo.htm
I hope that this helps. You can also contact Paul Baker at Neo, for feedback on how they compare to Royal Purple, Redline and Mobil 1 (and others). His oils are used in F1, CART and other applications.
Jay Herbert
Enthusiast
I put the Shockproof(?) RedLine Rear Gear lube in my RT's rear end, it already has the additive in it, so there is no need to add a separate bottle of "stinky stuff". The rear was definitely quieter.
The advise on the tranny fluid is a good one. I would not use it. RedLine may have changed their additives because folks had that problem, but I would not bet my tranny on it. This was only a problem with Viper Tranny's as the components within them are different to handle the torque.
P.S. I have used the Red Line tranny fluid in my Mustangs T5 with much success. Just not for Vipers...
The advise on the tranny fluid is a good one. I would not use it. RedLine may have changed their additives because folks had that problem, but I would not bet my tranny on it. This was only a problem with Viper Tranny's as the components within them are different to handle the torque.
P.S. I have used the Red Line tranny fluid in my Mustangs T5 with much success. Just not for Vipers...
Martin
Enthusiast
Very true about the Redline MTL stuff - it was the hot ticket about two or three years ago but some people had problems. Their D4 ATF, though, is great stuff. It is a synthetic Dextron III (also apparently meets new Dextron IV requirements) and should be a direct replacement for the factory fill. The Syntorq stuff is also very good - but if you live in cold climates the shifting will get much stiffer until things warm up a bunch.
I talked to the guys at Redline about their diff oils, and they recommend the 75W/140 + additive for Vipers under warranty. The Shockproof Heavy stuff will work great, but it doesn't have a GL rating that is required for warranty compliance. If you break something in the diff and your tech drains that Shockproof stuff out, he's going to wonder what the heck it is because it looks really bizarre. You might run into some warranty problems from that point on....
I talked to the guys at Redline about their diff oils, and they recommend the 75W/140 + additive for Vipers under warranty. The Shockproof Heavy stuff will work great, but it doesn't have a GL rating that is required for warranty compliance. If you break something in the diff and your tech drains that Shockproof stuff out, he's going to wonder what the heck it is because it looks really bizarre. You might run into some warranty problems from that point on....
Frank Parise
VCA Venom Member
My opinion....use the standard MOPAR fluids for both your tranny and diff. They work great in both street and full-race environments. Our race team has used them for over 3 years in our Vipers without a single fluid failure. Redline in the tranny is a real mistake...I tried it once at the track when I didn't know any better..it made shifting a nightmare. There is no need whatsoever to go to a different fluid in either the tranny or the diff. Team Viper knows better than your local race shop. Good luck.
Martin
Enthusiast
Thanks for the info Frank! Did you try the Redline MTL stuff, or their Dextron III replacement (D4 ATF)? I've heard of the bad experiences with MTL, but I hadn't heard anything negative about their direct Dextron III fluid. My understanding is the Mopar labeled tranny fluid is just a Dextron III with no special additives and the diff fluid is just a synthetic 75W/140 - did I get it wrong?
Tom Glenn
Enthusiast
I tried the Redline 80/140 gear lube with friction modifier already in it. After a few days my trac lok started slipping. I thought I had burned up my clutch pack. I changed back to the factory fill and added the friction modifier. After a couple days my trac lok was working again. I think the Redline is just too slippery for the trac lok clutch pack.
