VIPER ENGINE PRE-OILER SYSTEM

[BLUESNAKE367]

Did a search and could not find anything on a Engine pre-oiler system for our Viper motors...

I installed a pre-oiler to my 409 engine I had in a 55 chevy back in the day and thought it would be great to install one in my Viper due to the fact it sets for days sometimes weeks between start ups and I know there is not much oil in the top of the motor....

Anyone out there have something????

Thanks,Rick

 

[carguy07]

I think Dan "Final GTS" has what you are looking for.

http://www.viperspecialtyperformance.com/Contacts.asp

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

http://www4.forum.viperclub.org/showflat...rt=all&vc=1

 

[Joe Dozzo]

Roe Racing also used to have these.

 

[Supercharged Vipermad]

Why would you need a pre-oiler if you never start it and drive it???

 

[BLUESNAKE367]

Tony your killing me....

had it out Saturday, sunny and 40, the guy across the street from me had his yellow 06 Z06 out and wanted to play and you know I will not pass up a race or should I say spirited drive against a vette. I could not get my tires to stick and he was all over the road also.....but it was fun...

Thanks everyone for your replies to my post, Iam in the right direction now and armed with product info....

 

[Joseph Dell]

Another option is to just buy the accusump (better than what ROE used to sell) and then get fittings and make it work.

I'd e-mailed FinalGTS about his set-up a few months back and when i didn't hear anything, i built my own. i think i have less than $400 in the whole setup. maybe 350...

good luck!

JD

 

[Bonkers]

Why would you need a pre-oiler if you never start it and drive it???

That's classic! . . . but you know Rick he does have a point...

 

[RAYSIR]

Cracks me up Too!!! Guys worried about pre-oiling. The factory and dealers have cars set for months. I have had cars in storage for 2 yrs at a time. If you want to pre-oil then disconnect the coil or ignition , crack it til you get oil pressure the hook up ignition and start it same as a brand New engine. The oils today have properties that stay and adhere to the parts. Look at aircraft engines that set for months at a time without pre-oil. IMO just a sales gimmick. I'll sell you a pre-duster so the dirt won't scratch the paint!!!

 

[grcforce327]

I'll sell you a pre-duster so the dirt won't scratch the paint!!!

Pre-dusters are finally available now?????

 

[Joseph Dell]

If you get an accusump, you get more than a pre-oiler. you get pressure restored anytime you get a pressure drop. so if, say, you are tracking the car and it loses pressure on a sharp turn for a second, you get pressure. or if your oil-pump fails, you get maintained pressure.

so it isn't just about reducing start-up chatter.

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

Joseph and RAYSIR are both right; for startup the oil (actually the additives) provide protection and for momentary dips in oil pressure, the accusump provides the bandaid. The point is that an engine doesn't need a pre-start oiling system as this is playing on the same scare tactics as advertisements that claim how much wear is caused at startup, how long oil takes to circulate, etc. If you really want to do something positive for long term storage, use an oil with a 0W-xx viscosity grade. There are 0W-30, 0W-40, and ENEOS makes a performance 0W-50 oil. The "0W" specification provides the best cold oil flow during cranking.

 

[SN8K BTN]

Cracks me up Too!!! Guys worried about pre-oiling. The factory and dealers have cars set for months. I have had cars in storage for 2 yrs at a time. If you want to pre-oil then disconnect the coil or ignition , crack it til you get oil pressure the hook up ignition and start it same as a brand New engine. The oils today have properties that stay and adhere to the parts. Look at aircraft engines that set for months at a time without pre-oil. IMO just a sales gimmick. I'll sell you a pre-duster so the dirt won't scratch the paint!!!

Not to spark a conflict, but aircraft engines ARE pre-oiled. We design them such that the starter motor runs the lube before the turbine turns. They're obviously bot limited to aircraft, most all gas turbine engines are pre-oiled. I personally think car designers don't have pre-oiling systems because they don't want your car to last forever. Cranking a cold engine causes more wear & tear in seconds than driving it for years when it's been well lubricated.

 

[Viper Specialty]

Another option is to just buy the accusump (better than what ROE used to sell) and then get fittings and make it work.

I'd e-mailed FinalGTS about his set-up a few months back and when i didn't hear anything, i built my own. i think i have less than $400 in the whole setup. maybe 350...

good luck!

JD

Hey JD-

Sorry about that! I just went back and tried to figure out what happened to that PM... it appears that two members, you and KepRght, PMd me at almost the same time with virtually identical headings. I must have read yours, came back to the board later and answered his message, thinking it was the same message.

Glad to hear you have it all worked out though.

For anyone else, yes, I do still offer them, but on a special order only basis. I can get the parts for you cheaper than going direct however, if you would prefer to build it yourself.

 

[Joseph Dell]

Daniel -

No problem and no offense taken.

For everyone else: it is worth getting a kit from Daniel. I built mine as I wanted it but the kit makes your life easier unless you _enjoy_ designing plumbing systems.

JD

 

[Jack B]

Another side benefit - after I installed the T&D's the lifters pumped down much quicker. They would clatter for several minutes, even if just sitting for a couple of days - the Accusump stopped that scenario.

To go further, many vipers have seized from tracking the cars with the stock oil pan, that will be avoided with the Accumsump. Why else do most of the Comp Coups have the articulating oil pick-up, these cars cannot go to long with low oil pressure.

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

>I personally think car designers don't have pre-oiling systems because they don't want your car to last forever. Cranking a cold engine causes more wear & tear in seconds than driving it for years when it's been well lubricated. <

No.

First of all, it is literally not true. Heavy duty OEMs like Cat, Detroit Diesel, Mack, Cummins all do want their engine to last as long as they can before overhaul, since that is a key economic decision for customers. Second, an engine cannot be "well lubricated" while driving and then somehow be left unprotected during cranking. Third, the additives in the oil that comprise from 8% to 18% of that quart are surface active and do not "drain" into the oil pan, no matter how long you let the engine sit. Fourth, and I can see the notion is in this thread, you have to separate "cranking" from "racing". Oiling during 100 RPM and no load is different that 5000 RPM under high load. Not to endorse those crazy commercials that show engines running without oil, but the reason they can is there is no load!

If that statement were remotely true, then Viper engines would only last half as long as others. Because of the odd-fire 10 cylinder, the ECU has to crank at least one revolution to find TDC, which is far longer than an even fire 4, 6, or 8 cylinder. That extra cranking would mean extra wear and shorter life relative to the other engines?

While at Texaco we participated in the testing to revise the low temperature engine oil requirements - the "W" rating. We had a Toyota engine on a dyno in a cold room which could go down to -40C. The program had a long series of oils and measured the time it took for oil pressure to reach various parts of the engine. An oil was a failure if it didn't show oil pressure after 2 minutes or so. During its life the engine cranked as much as it ran. At the end of the program, people couldn't wait to snap it up and put it back in the Camry it came from and drive off with a cheap, new car.

 

[SN8K BTN]

Sorry, Tom. Point taken. Most all gas turbine engines are pre-oiled, however. This was my original note.

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

I believe turbine oils are like hydraulic oils and only very lightly additized with anti-oxidants. The performance is mostly derived from the base oil itself. Is this true and do you know why?