Want to replace factory speakers.

[gtsfe21]

I am wanting to replace my factory speakers but still would like to keep a factory look. I have used the search feature and many of us are upgrading the whole system. I am not stereo savy at all and just want to replace the stock speakers and maybe gain a little bass. Any ideas?

 

[EZ 2B Green]

What generation of Viper are you asking about?

 

[EZ 2B Green]

Oops, I just noticed the heading of the forum. Nevermind...

 

[gtsfe21]

I have a 2002 FE GTS BTW...

 

[dave6666]

You'll get more bass upgrading the head but then you will discover shortly thereafter how bad the door speakers are. Why not just do an aftermarket upgrade and put the factory stuff in a box? Are you married to the plain, black, barely worthy of Vipers,...?

 

[Phun70]

I installed a set of Kicker audio speakers in my doors, and they were practically a drop in, even the tweeters were super easy!! They literally dropped in!! They sound great. I replaced the speakers between the seats with JL audio 6in subs, They sound wonderful and look almost stock. The door speakers used the same grilles so no one can tell unless they read the tweeter grilles. Hope this helps, Mark AKA:"Throttle"

 

[gtsfe21]

Thanks, I could always stuff everything away and go all out too. Hmmm...

 

[RTTTTed]

Head and amps are good Alpine stuff and replacing them made no difference in any of my cars.

However, the stock speakers are JUNK. Anything aftermarket is an upgrade, but active crossover for the doors is a huge improvment. Do a search and find one of the various threads on stereo upgrades - there are lots.

JBL is an excellent choice of speakers. I used Hertz for my second GTS and the sound was just as good although MUCH cheaper. My third choice was Infinity and they sounded like double the stereo quality with just the door speakers, tweeters and Xover epoxied into the door. (Pictures, part numbers and description of what is needed to do the job listed on 3 of 4 previous threads). I suggest Hertz as being the best at the most reasonable price.

Ted

 

[gtsfe21]

After sifting through tons of old threads I think I am going to go with Kicker KS600's in the front(due to the apparent easy of installation) and 2 Kicker CVT 6.5" subwoofers in the rear. There is a 4 ohm model and a 2 ohm model. I am thinking I should get the 4 ohm subwoofers. Is that correct? Thanks in advance.

 

[scottmcc]

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Yesterday I installed a 6 inch JL Audio 6W3 in my 97 RT/10. I was a pretty easy install. There was a piece of plastic towards the top that was just barely in the way and prevented the woofer from dropping right in. I took a heat gun and heated up the plastic and used a hammer to hold the softened plastic in until it cooled. Woofer fit perfectly then!

I replaced the woofer because it was popping. When I removed the grill the woofer cone and surround were completely rotted.

Note: To access the woofer, use a small flat heat screwdriver to lift the GRILL off the speaker. Do not try to pry the plastic outside up as it is held down with screws. You will see a little FLAT area in the wire mesh grill at the bottom and gently pry it up.

 

[hybrid1098]

I would advise against the KS600. Although they are a little cheaper on price, the tweeter is on the mids and you will have a non functional tweeter on you're door.

IMHO components are separate for a reason. The waves from the mids disrupt the sound emanating from the tweeters which do not sound as clear as a true component setup.

Get the KS60.2 (or 08KS60.2) as they are component speakers that have detachable tweeters. Meaning that if you ever take it out you can put the tweeter on the mids by taking the middle part out and replacing with the tweeter.

In any case, at the lowest setting the highs are so high pitched and strong you can always put the tweeters back to the lower part of you're door and take the stock tweeters and put back on the door for decoration.

Get the components, it's a better upgrade. Just did my install and it slipped right in. The tweeters can go straight in without the mounting stuff and it looks recessed into the tweeter housing. It's great since it would never get in the way.

The speaker grills look really cool too.

They have a 75W RMS rating (the only rating you should look at) so if you are planning on putting more strength then you should be able to go with the RS60.2 (higher end) but the depth of the speaker is a little bigger, it "should" fit the Viper's door.

In my opinion, the KS60.2 is still not good enough. I have a 12" sub in the back (easily can be taken out) as well as an amp powering the sub and speakers up front with an Alpine IDA-X001 head unit to my iphone/ipod.

The sound is great but I still prefer the sound of a nice luxury car as it sounds complete. This one lacks mids (still) as the treble and bass are very strong and with the exhaust/headers making more music, the mids kind of dies in the background.

If you can try the RS and fit it, do it. You do not have to have a discerning ear to notice the difference. Anyone can. Spend the extra dough if you can.

Fitments can be checked on the Kicker site:

RS60.2 Highly recommended but check fitting on depth. I know GTS doors have a 2.5" room for a deeper installation.
KS60.2 Direct fit guarantee as I am using it right now. Installed yesterday.
KS600 (coaxial) Ill-advised

Will post pics upon request.

 

[Art 138]

I replaced the exisiitng door speakers with KS600s; I did not go any further with the upgrade because with the belangers/HF cats exhaust ambiance noise, audio sound quality will be minimally improved. Believe you can only take it so far on these cars......

 

[Fatboy 18]

Fitments can be checked on the Kicker site:

RS60.2 Highly recommended but check fitting on depth. I know GTS doors have a 2.5" room for a deeper installation.
KS60.2 Direct fit guarantee as I am using it right now. Installed yesterday.
KS600 (coaxial) Ill-advised

Will post pics upon request.

Pics please I need to change out the rear speakers on my GTS, the current ones have fallen apart, (I have not had a good look at the door speakers yet}. I have also just bought one of these
Zenec - Touch another World : ZE-NC510

I intend to use the current OEM amp and my radio guy is currently making up a din plug so that no wires require cutting

 

[hybrid1098]

I replaced the exisiitng door speakers with KS600s; I did not go any further with the upgrade because with the belangers/HF cats exhaust ambiance noise, audio sound quality will be minimally improved. Believe you can only take it so far on these cars......

I have headers, H/F cats and exhaust, all Belanger. That is the reason I upgraded. The sound quality was drastically improved but I wish there was more mid bass. I can hear the lows and the highs but the mids get drowned out sine it only is a 6" speaker. Yes you can only take it so far due to size restrictions.

IMHO, the single most important upgrade is the mids though. Reason is it's easy to get bass and no matter what component system you get, the tweeters are always going to be strong or pingy. Mine is at it's lowest setting but still blasts. The mids are dependent on diameter and depth. The speaker being a 6" diameter and 2 1/2" deep hole does not help.

Pics please I need to change out the rear speakers on my GTS, the current ones have fallen apart, (I have not had a good look at the door speakers yet}. I have also just bought one of these
Zenec - Touch another World : ZE-NC510

I intend to use the current OEM amp and my radio guy is currently making up a din plug so that no wires require cutting

I will post pics tomorrow as I will take the pics today. The factory amp ***** and are you going to change the speakers on the doors? If not then you can leave everything by itself. the rear speakers I unplugged since I think it's blown but I got 2 brand new sets of soundstream XTC6 speakers that fit in the rear perfectly.

Soundstream XTC.6 (xtc6) - 6-1/2" Component Speakers System - Sonic Electronix

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j4v6tsukCOY[/media]

These speakers are discontinued but wow they were made pretty well. They are 6.5" and will fit the back. I plan on putting these in. They are VERY good speakers and cheap too. The RMS alone is at 110 I think? Check out the test on youtube. I'm going ot leave the tweeters out though.

 

[hybrid1098]

BTW,

The speakers on the doors are supposed to be 6 1/2. I tried some and they did not fit and some speaker cavities requires modification to fit. The hole I believe is 6 3/8. The 6" speakers work.

I read somewhere here that speakers are not marketed as 6" but only 6 1/2. Speaker Manufacturers (often reputable companies) have different sizes of the same product to fit. To anyone interested, the dimensions are VERY impt. A 6" will fit perfectly (for kickers I know) even though the GTS doors are 6 1/2" diameter and a 2.5" depth on paper.

This information was very hard to look for so I thought to post it up.

 

[RTTTTed]

As I posted (and posted pics) in a few of the other threads the 6 1/2" speakers are "supposed" to fit. The hole is 6 3/8" so the speakers fit, barely, but the covers do not fit and you can't install any more than about 1/4" height at the top front of the speakers because of dash interference. I ground my speaker covers to 1/4" thickness and mounted them on top of the door panel. I ground the outside of the grilles on one set and used the pedestals to hold the speaker tight in the speaker recess. On another set I used rivet washers to use the cover screws to hold the speakers tight to the mount. Of course you have to make certaint that the speaker grilles can be cut down without interfeering with the speaker cone movement(and don't hit the speaker cone). I did have to throw away the Hertz speaker grilles because they were a formed wire mesh that didn't use a condusive mounting plate, so I bought some kicker speaker grilles, ground them to 1/4" thickness and screwed them on instead. After using a razor blade to cut off the name, they covers look better anyway. (Covers were designed for 6 1/2" subs.)

Ted

 

[Jerome Sparich]

I
IMHO components are separate for a reason. The waves from the mids disrupt the sound emanating from the tweeters which do not sound as clear as a true component setup.

Research point source speakers. You may learn something there.


$100 speakers will always be $100 speakers. You can't compare them to a component set at $1k or more.

Even the best speakers will sound like doodoo if not in the proper location.

Just like the housing market,,,,location,,,,, location,,,,,location

 

[RTTTTed]

Maybe $120. door speaker kit (tweeter, Xover and wide response) is cheap, in the US, but here that's probably a $250-350 kit. And the cheapo Infinity door speaker kit I installed sound awesome compared to the stockers. The floor bounces under my feet at mid volume and the door panels add to the bass while they are shaking as well.

I wish that paying extra money (like 12% HST)actually improved sound quality, but it doesn't seem to make a difference.

 

[jay01m]

I have a set of JL Audio ZR-650CSIs, 6.5 inch subs and tweeters. The tweeter fits perfectly. The left sub actually fits and everything clears the dash (by a millimeter). The right sub, however, not so much. I get clearance issues at the top side of the grill with the dash. I'm actually going to modify the dash panel instead of the speaker so it clears. Going to shave it down then have it recovered in leather/vinyl. Should be an easy fix.

If you go with 5.25 subs in the doors, it will clear but you're going to need to make filler rings because you'll have a gap around the speaker and you'll be able to see into the door panel, and you won't get all 4 screws into the door panel when you screw it in. I tried the 5.25s and didn't like how they fit, so sticking with the 6.5s.

Just my $.02.

As I posted (and posted pics) in a few of the other threads the 6 1/2" speakers are "supposed" to fit. The hole is 6 3/8" so the speakers fit, barely, but the covers do not fit and you can't install any more than about 1/4" height at the top front of the speakers because of dash interference. I ground my speaker covers to 1/4" thickness and mounted them on top of the door panel. I ground the outside of the grilles on one set and used the pedestals to hold the speaker tight in the speaker recess. On another set I used rivet washers to use the cover screws to hold the speakers tight to the mount. Of course you have to make certaint that the speaker grilles can be cut down without interfeering with the speaker cone movement(and don't hit the speaker cone). I did have to throw away the Hertz speaker grilles because they were a formed wire mesh that didn't use a condusive mounting plate, so I bought some kicker speaker grilles, ground them to 1/4" thickness and screwed them on instead. After using a razor blade to cut off the name, they covers look better anyway. (Covers were designed for 6 1/2" subs.)

Ted