Weather stripping coming lose on power windows

heath1225

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The weather stripping has come lose on the driver's side power window. It is the stripping running vertical along the door handle panel. Its fine when rolled down, but when its up it pulls the stripping away from the panel. I tried 3M weather stripping adhesive, but it doesnt hold it much better. What would you guys do? Epoxy? Thanks!
 

chambers

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The weather stripping has come lose on the driver's side power window. It is the stripping running vertical along the door handle panel. Its fine when rolled down, but when its up it pulls the stripping away from the panel. I tried 3M weather stripping adhesive, but it doesnt hold it much better. What would you guys do? Epoxy? Thanks!


Crazy glue did the trick for me. Good as new
 

EllowViper

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I riveted mine back on (a metal strip is embossed in the weather trim material) and covered the small heads with matching shiny black vinyl striping material cut in a circle just bigger than the rivet head (small circle punches work great for this). Matches the polished plastic stantion perfectly and looks like OEM. Has survived washing, waxing, and normal wear and tear. Used four rivets evenly spaced so as to give the appearance it was designed like this. Unless you knew this was a fix, you'd never know otherwise. Or you can spend $500 and replace the entire stantion and trim as one piece. I have to suspect the life span of a new piece that has been sitting on the shelf drying out for 12+ years however....either way, you will end up replacing the stantion along with the trim so give the rivet thing a try. Nothing to lose regardless.
 

01sapphirebob

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Mine is doing this on the passenger side stantion on my RT/10. Wondering what the best course of action is gonna be.
 

BlueLIGHTNING

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Just replaced the passenger side one and have driver's side new in a box waiting. Viper parts of America has the best prices if you are going new and is on their online catalog.
 
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heath1225

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I tried super glue. I thought it would work. But the window wouldn't fully roll up with the glue holding the weather stripping all the way in place. When I assisted the window in moving up the weather stripping started sliding out again. Why does it do that? Why can't the window roll up when the weather stripping is in the proper place?
 

DrTaco

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The windows in the earlier Gens were too tall for the weatherstripping. Thus, the weatherstrip will always get "pushed" around. Check my past posts for a How To on replacing them (if ya choose that route) and try to store ur Viper with the windows rolled down a tad to give the stripping a break.
 
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heath1225

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Ellow-

Do you have photos of this process? Where did you get rivets for it? Did you have to drill?
 
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heath1225

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Would cutting the stripping be an option? It wouldn't be as tight when the window rolled up and may not get pushed.

Also, I have seen the stancions for sake, but not the stripping. Is it available as well?
 

EllowViper

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I have some pics of the finished project but they are too big to post. I can e-mail if you post a commercial e-mail account. When I had mine all apart, I took a good look at how it was designed and I can see how over time it deteriorates and comes apart. At that point, I was just going to trash the entire assembly and order a replacement. But then I figured, well... the stantion is worthless anyways so why not try and do a permanent fix and see how it turns out. I had some thin, long aluminum rivets and figured if I could cover the rivet heads on the plastic stantion in a way that looked pretty professional, rivets should work. You can't see the back side of the rivets on the trim piece when installed so that's not an issue. So I simply held the trim piece in place on the stantion, drilled four evenly spaced holes all the way through, pop-riveted the trim back in place as originally mounted, and used some shiney black vinyl striping I had over the rivet heads. I'm pretty picky about fit and finish and I have to say it looks just fine. Plus I saved a butt-load of $$$ and it will NEVER come off again. If the passenger side does the same thing, I'll do it to that side as well. Even though I did mine with the door apart, I think you can do it without disassembling anything. Just put the trim in place and hold it, drill through the stantion and trim piece (I know...its hard to bring yourself to do this..but the stantion gets replaced either way), insert the pop-rivet and pop it. And cover the rivet head with a slightly larger small circle of similar vinyl material. The resulting finish are small black bumps/bubbles where the covered rivet heads are. Sort of looks like an aviation patch on a wing I guess.
 
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heath1225

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OK, from looking at my stanchion, it appears that I would only need to replace the exterior portion of the stanchion? Is this possible? Or do I need to replace the interior as well?
 
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heath1225

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well online they are sold individually as the interior and exterior. So I didnt know.
 

EllowViper

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Exterior and outside stantion are one piece molded together during assembly. Its the impregnated metal pieces in the trim that separates from the polished stantion that causes it to come loose. The inside is a separate piece.
 
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heath1225

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Could you describe the "door stop" a little better. Thats the only part that concerns as I have no clue what it is.
 

DrTaco

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Could you describe the "door stop" a little better. Thats the only part that concerns as I have no clue what it is.

Sure, and it will be much clearer when you have it in your hands, there's a little black torx head screw on a slider that moves up and down. When you are installing the new stanchion, make sure this slidr is not raised up. You can see it in my last How To picture, the long silver metal piece running vertically has that little black "cutout" box. That box is the door stop in the down position. The torx head is on the other side of it. You can also look two pictures up and see the other side of it, with the torx head showing. Trust me, if will make much more sense in real life.
 

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