What's the easiet way to install this metal brace...
- Thread starter 97snk
- Start date
snakebitdave
Enthusiast
Jack the car up so that the front wheels are off the ground and the distance between the wheel wells will open up enought to get the brace out or in.
I was planning on putting the head/cam setup together, running the car for a few weeks to make sure everything works and than do the paxton install, this way if I left anything out on the head/cam setup would be worked out before the paxton install
When I removed/installed this cross member I jacked up the front of the Viper from the center frame member. This relieved pressure on either side of the brace which allowed me to slip it off and slip it back on. I did have to use a rubber mallet to help coax it back in a bit but went in without issue. Once I had it installed and aligned with the bolt holes, I installed the bolts, tightened them. I then put the Viper back down on the ground and finished torquing the bolts for the cross member.
I really can't decide if I want to run the car before installing the paxton or just installing the paxton and towing it off to DC performance for tuning. I m sure they will be able to fix anything that I missed with the build...what do you guys suggest?
pics of the OE paxton brace are here: http://forums.viperclub.org/rt-10-gts-discussions/601288-hood-question-paxton-sc-installers.html
I do all of my own work after buying my cars. I am not the greatest at tuning and will eventually go to a Pro tuner (like DC Perf) once I'm finished.
The Paxton should come with a rough tune and the tune shouldn't matter until about 3,000rpm so you could drive it to DC Performance gently, and at low rpms - after you get it put together unless you're a long ways away. If the car doesn't run well enough then you have the tow option.
If you're not comfortable with it then tow it to DC Perf. They have a stellar reputation and will do a good job.
Ted
The Paxton should come with a rough tune and the tune shouldn't matter until about 3,000rpm so you could drive it to DC Performance gently, and at low rpms - after you get it put together unless you're a long ways away. If the car doesn't run well enough then you have the tow option.
If you're not comfortable with it then tow it to DC Perf. They have a stellar reputation and will do a good job.
Ted
IMHO - you want to run the car with the new heads/cam prior to complicating (the sc) the equation. This way you can get a base line dyno pull before you add the sc. Then there is no finger pointing if the hp is not where you want it. What are you using for engine management?
IMHO - you want to run the car with the new heads/cam prior to complicating ( sc) the equation. This way you can get a base line dyno pull before you add the sc. Then there is no finger pointing if the hp is not where you want it. What are you using for engine management?
I do have the split second but I might just do a SCT tune...but it's going to be between the two...which ever is more reliable....
I do have the split second but I might just do a SCT tune...but it's going to be between the two...which ever is more reliable....
You won't be able to change the closed loop fuel map with the split second, therefore, you will lose some drive-ability. Good luck with the build.
