Wheel hop = Blown rear end :( Be careful

Jack B

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Take your foot off the throttle. There's surely a lot more to wheel hop than the normal get on it and go....... Your right suspension plays a big part, the motor and tranny mounts as well, but I think practice like you say is a big factor. Independent axles are tough at best.

Another part of the puzzle is the rear toe. At one time Archer made anti-toe brackets for the rear.
 
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GotAViper

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Hey guys, just started taking it apart and realized its the rear left half shaft (axle). I guess this is going to be cheaper.

does anyone know where i can pick up some half shafts? unitrax is $900 a pair, anything cheaper?
 

Black Moon

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Call JonB...... He will take car of you as he does everyone else. I have found him to be very reasonable as well.
 
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GotAViper

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Actually looks like partsrack carries unitrax ones for $800. Are these good? It say sits god for 800HP, but my viper is mainly stock, is there a cheaper better option?
 

Canyon707

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I am assuming it's either an 04 or 03 SRT10 Those half shafts are hollow and also have a shear point cut into them. They break at this point every time. Dodge made some changes later in 06 and made the axles solid. I don't know how the new ones are rated but, I can tell you the hollow shafts are a joke. You might be ok just buying a new shaft from Dodge since they will be the newer ones.
 

dave6666

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I guess this is going to be cheaper.

Hopefully you got lucky. I decided to skip the drag racing portion of Viper ownership because regardless of how tough people say the Viper is, shock loading the driveline is shock loading the driveline. I would however get wheel hop during sporty departures from the beer store now and then, and that has been assigned the blame for destroying my pinion bearing.

If down the road you start to get rear end noise, like who dumped that bucket of gravel in my diff kinda noise, cheaper didn't last forever.

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Alex D

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The car is a 1993 RT/10. The shaft broke at the u-joint right behind the hub.
 

RTTTTed

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I sold my Unitrax but have a few stock/replacements on the shelf. PM if interested

Ted
 

Chemical Matty

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A quick question from across the pond. Why does my car only ever "hop" the passenger side rear wheel? It doesn't matter on the road surface, wet or dry, it still feels like a scene out of Bullit.

The dampers have been back to Dynamic in the UK within the last 2 years for a rebuild. The car has just over 8000 miles on it.

2001 ACR

Thanks,

Matt.
 

RTTTTed

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Wheel hop is interesting. My PS1s would wheel hop badly, but once I mounted PS2s I had double the traction and the wheel hop was gone. Guessing that if you change the tires it'll go away.

Call Roe Racing as he was testing some polyurethane A arm bushings and they would stiffen and improve suspension reactions and probably minimize wheel hop.

Ted
 

Viper Grenade

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Upgrade the diff, put on some new PS2's (or PSC's, R888's ect). Your wheel hop will go away. Also change the way you launch, try to slip the clutch a touch more.
 

Chemical Matty

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Thanks Ted.

She's on PS2's that are only about 3 years old. Just puzzled me why one side does it and not the other, I think I need to swap the dampers fom side to side to see if that's where the problem lies.
 

steelskeet

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Being that your stock Im not sure unitrax are necessary. Same situation happened to me. I went with a stock half-shaft, but also replaced my motor and transmission mounts a month later. It made a huge difference in reducing wheel hop. If your still on your original mounts, I would bet they need replacing.
 

RTTTTed

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I would replace the axles with stronger Unitrax ones. The 800hp axles are about the price of stock. My 720rwhp Roe Viper has 1,000 hp Titanium axles as one of the 800hp splines twisted slightly.

Reliability is important when you drive your car cross-continent. Break-downs are not an option

Ted
 

JonB

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A quick question from across the pond. Why does my car only ever "hop" the passenger side rear wheel? It doesn't matter on the road surface, wet or dry, it still feels like a scene out of Bullit.The dampers have been back to Dynamic in the UK within the last 2 years for a rebuild. The car has just over 8000 miles on it. 2001 ACR Thanks, Matt.


Put a fat lady in the right seat and it wont happen that way! In other words, with a driver aboard, your right-rear tire has the least weight of all 4. It will be the first one to break free in a straight line....or in a decelerating right turn. You can have the car corner-weighted since you have fully-adjustrable coilovers.

2001-2002 DSI-equipped ACRs were the WORST,,,, way too over-sprung in the rear. Long Story, easy fix. 2 softer springs...
 
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GotAViper

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Ordered unitrax. Saved me $100 over ordering directly from unitrax. I will install and let you guys know how it goes. Hopefully thats it all that i broke.
 

Canyon707

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Probably all you did break. if you break one you can't move. The factory shafts are hollow shafts and have a shear point built into them. it breaks on either side of it. Dodge later went to solid shafts I think in 06 I am guessing they were replacing more than they though they would.


Ordered unitrax from John B. at partsrack Saved me $100 over ordering directly from unitrax. I will install and let you guys know how it goes. Hopefully thats it all that i broke.
 

Chemical Matty

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Put a fat lady in the right seat and it wont happen that way! In other words, with a driver aboard, your right-rear tire has the least weight of all 4. It will be the first one to break free in a straight line....or in a decelerating right turn. You can have the car corner-weighted since you have fully-adjustrable coilovers.

2001-2002 DSI-equipped ACRs were the WORST,,,, way too over-sprung in the rear. Long Story, easy fix. 2 softer springs...

That's the conclusion that I've reached having ended up with the rear shocks on full bump and rebound stiffness, and the ride being BAD, almost dangerous in bumpy, sweeping WOT (or nearly)corners. What's the rating of the springs on the car and what rating is recommended?
 

Alex D

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Probably all you did break. if you break one you can't move. The factory shafts are hollow shafts and have a shear point built into them. it breaks on either side of it. Dodge later went to solid shafts I think in 06 I am guessing they were replacing more than they though they would.

The actual shaft did not break, the u-joint is what actually broke. Either way, i'll have fun installing these.
 

'Trust'

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The ring gear size difference is enough to create a weak point going from factory to 3.55's. What broke? Ring gear? Posi? etc.

EDIT: Didn't see the 2nd page..
 

Trans Doc

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The 96 and up axle shafts are stronger than the 95 and earlier OE shafts . The outer yoke shaft was revised and is a larger diameter and less prone to twist or breaking. If you find a used set be sure they have a smooth plunge for the full length of the spline to ensure they are not twisted and locked up. The spline lock will cause all kind of issues.
 

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