Window Regulator -GEN 3/4 Archilles Heel

dvhavoc

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The window drop is one of the issues that I have to address. I won't know for sure until I can get a Viper to do the install and testing. I am as far as I can go with out a Viper.

Can someone please give tmills a Viper to work on. Everybody's window regulator will eventually break. You can go ahead and replace it, but it will also break eventually. Just got quoted to get mine replaced with an OEM regulator. The funny thing is that I believe its the passenger door that's way more expensive. Passenger door around $1,200, while the drivers is $750. I would give my car to tmills in a heartbeat if I lived anywhere near him. Common guys.
 

cubican

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We finally get a solution for the regulators, and we cant find some one to help out Cmon......
Mr mills how long do you need the car for.
 

latamud

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Did the copper tube fix work? Has anyone else tried this fix?

It worked, but it's still not as good as my non-broken DS regulator. This new regulator is going to solve our problems. It's going to eliminate the coil core and weak points.
 

Viktimize

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The window drop is one of the issues that I have to address. I won't know for sure until I can get a Viper to do the install and testing. I am as far as I can go with out a Viper.

I would imagine there is a way to trigger the door switch with the door off the car??
 

Steve M

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I'd be willing to help, but I don't have my wheels back from being refinished yet, and I've found it incredibly hard to drive my car around town on jack stands.

How long would you need the car, and where would it be kept during the process?
 

JohnnyH

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I would imagine there is a way to trigger the door switch with the door off the car??

Can't you just do the old method and manually trick the door to being closed using a screw driver and pushing the lock mechanism where it contacts the striker? Assuming you have a way to add power to the door obviously. Thats what my friend does to all the cars while he does his window tint jobs so that the lights in the car doesn't drain the battery.
 

Kala

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Can't you just do the old method and manually trick the door to being closed using a screw driver and pushing the lock mechanism where it contacts the striker? Assuming you have a way to add power to the door obviously. Thats what my friend does to all the cars while he does his window tint jobs so that the lights in the car doesn't drain the battery.

In the video he has power... He needs a working car with a BCM to see about the drop we need
 

99FRC

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I have an Gen IV and now both windows are having issues....this seems to be a defect with many Gen IV's. Where is SRT on this issue???
 

Steve M

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I have an Gen IV and now both windows are having issues....this seems to be a defect with many Gen IV's. Where is SRT on this issue???

They've acknowleged the problem, because they've addressed it for the Gen V. About the only hope we have at this point is the solution posted in this thread...SRT has been silent on the issue for Gen III and IV owners.
 

99FRC

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They've acknowleged the problem, because they've addressed it for the Gen V. About the only hope we have at this point is the solution posted in this thread...SRT has been silent on the issue for Gen III and IV owners.

I know they have been silent. I just don't understand why they would choose to ignore the situation. It could even be seen as a safety issue. The majority of GEN IV owners have had issues. SRT needs to except responsibility and create an action plan. Not being able to roll the windows down or up could result in theft, damage, injury, etc.

SRT?????
 

Viktimize

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In the video he has power... He needs a working car with a BCM to see about the drop we need

But there must be a way to simulate the same shot of power done by the bcm. ??

In any sense I'm sure some owner will come to the rescue on this. It's a huge issue, I can't imagine there is nobody in the area who can pop by for some tests.
 

Kala

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But there must be a way to simulate the same shot of power done by the bcm. ??
It's not the power shot... Windows have to be trained thru the BCM for the drop to the actual car and weather stripping. Especially after the install of a new regulator. Sometimes our cars will look like they have a bad reg... only to find out a re-training of the BCM will do for a while. Yet, then again... It's usually a faulty regulator...
:omg::brick:
 

chorps

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I know they have been silent. I just don't understand why they would choose to ignore the situation. It could even be seen as a safety issue. The majority of GEN IV owners have had issues. SRT needs to except responsibility and create an action plan. Not being able to roll the windows down or up could result in theft, damage, injury, etc.

SRT?????

Besides the regulators, what kind of issues for Gen IV are you referring to?
 

tmills

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For the first test all I need to do is remove the left door trim panel to get access to the regulator wiring. I would un plug the wiring from the motor and plug my regulator in, I wouldn't install it at this point. I would then test the electronics to see if the regulator would have the "glass drop" and the "express down" feature. There are some electrical issues that I won't get into here but I need to see how they effect the operation of the new regulator motor. It will depend on the outcome of this test if we need to go any farther. I would think it would only take a couple of hours to decide if we have a viable fix for the Viper regulator problem. As far as your car being safe in our care, that is what we do for a business. We have a well respected auto body collision business here in Mishawaka Indiana. We have been in business for over 40 years now. I am leaving for Florida the first week of November and I will be back for a month or so for the Holidays and I would sure like to get some answers before I leave and I am sure you guys would like answers too. Depending on the outcome of the initial test and you would want to leave the car with me for a while it would be stored at my home in my heated building with my Prowler and other cars. If you want to check me out do a search of my name on the Prowler online forum.
 

Steve M

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Well, if I get my car back on the ground and you still haven't had someone step up to the plate, I'd be more than happy to loan you mine as a test mule.
 

dvhavoc

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Well, if I get my car back on the ground and you still haven't had someone step up to the plate, I'd be more than happy to loan you mine as a test mule.

Finally someone steps up. Thanks Steve!:2tu:
 

tmills

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Thanks Steve but I sure hope we can find one a lot closer. Dayton is a long drive for you.
Tom
 

Lespauldude

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I know they have been silent. I just don't understand why they would choose to ignore the situation. It could even be seen as a safety issue. The majority of GEN IV owners have had issues. SRT needs to except responsibility and create an action plan. Not being able to roll the windows down or up could result in theft, damage, injury, etc.

SRT?????

Don't hold your breath waiting for a reply from SRT on this Gen 3/4 Window regulator issue. It's been known to them for quite some time now and the profound silence should give
you a clue as to what they intend to do. I find it pathetic. :lame:
 

xRUSTYx

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tmills,

How long would the process take? If you were in the South of Indiana, it'd be alot closer for me.

There's got to be some Chicago owners who will to do this!!!!!
 

Viktimize

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It's not the power shot... Windows have to be trained thru the BCM for the drop to the actual car and weather stripping. Especially after the install of a new regulator. Sometimes our cars will look like they have a bad reg... only to find out a re-training of the BCM will do for a while. Yet, then again... It's usually a faulty regulator...
:omg::brick:

Thanks for clarifying that. I wasn't sure exactly how the set up works. Speaking of which, does anybody have the reset procedure for the the windows?? Mine doesn't seem to drop enough and catches over the lip on the convertible top.

EDIT- Nevermind, I found it. Window down and hold for 5 seconds, window up and hold for 5 seconds, repeat 3 times. Not that it matters much as I'm pretty sure it's due to my window regulator being on the way out.
 

SSGNRDZ_28

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I am in Indy which is still a 3 hour drive each way. I may be able to help if nobody closer can do it but it would likely have to be over a weekend.
 

tmills

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Thanks for the offer SSGNRDZ 28, lets hope we can get someone closer to step up.
 

The_Greg

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The window drop is one of the issues that I have to address. I won't know for sure until I can get a Viper to do the install and testing. I am as far as I can go with out a Viper.

Give this to me now! Haha! The window drop is electrical, I think its even in the motor somewhere (onboard hardware?) because today when I disconnected the motor and then re-connected it while futzing with my regulator/window assembly, it had to re-learn when to pull the window down even though I didn't disconnect the battery to the car's ECU. So, it must be on the door's motor assembly (the logic to drop the window, that is).

So as long as the motor maintains the same ratio of (spins of electric regulator motor shaft) : (Vertical Window Movement) at the top it should work flawlessly.
 
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tmills

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I talked to a Viper owner today that is only about 45 minutes from my shop and he has agreed to let me test the motor operation. I am just waiting for him to tell me when we can get together and do it. I hope to do it yet this week.
I will let you know how it does.
Tom
 

brNOR

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I just bought an '03 a month ago, and I've noticed some issues about the windows.

1. The windows doesn't seem to stop where they're supposed to. They go a bit to high. Today, when a friend (not knowing the windows go to high) raised the window and there was a pop. The window still works, but it's slower than the drivers side window, and it sounds like it's rubbing against something inside the door.

2. Windows don't go down/up when you open/close the door (are they supposed to?), resulting in them being stuck outside the lip on the roof if I don't lower them a bit manually before closing the door.

3. The buttons for the windows in the door are not working, only those in the center console.

Any ideas? Could all these problems be related to the window regulator?
 

latamud

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I just bought an '03 a month ago, and I've noticed some issues about the windows.

1. The windows doesn't seem to stop where they're supposed to. They go a bit to high. Today, when a friend (not knowing the windows go to high) raised the window and there was a pop. The window still works, but it's slower than the drivers side window, and it sounds like it's rubbing against something inside the door.

2. Windows don't go down/up when you open/close the door (are they supposed to?), resulting in them being stuck outside the lip on the roof if I don't lower them a bit manually before closing the door.

3. The buttons for the windows in the door are not working, only those in the center console.

Any ideas? Could all these problems be related to the window regulator?

There's a metal C pin that holds the glass to a plastic mount on the forward end of the window. Sometimes that slips out and allows your window to grind against the mount. That might be the pop you heard and the reason it sounds like its rubbing inside the door.

The windows are supposed to drop a little when you open the door and raise after you close the door. There's a reset for this, Ithink it is hold the widinw switch with the window all the way down for 5 seconds, then raise it and hold for 5 seconds, repeat 3 times. I might be wrong on the duration might be better to search this one. I don't like to pass mis-information.

The switches on the door are the door lock and unlock. The switches on console are for the windows. You will see an indication on your dash flash door unlocked sometimes, if you push the door switch down it will lock the door.
 

The_Greg

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latamud is right on the correct window re-learn position. I just slowly count to six and it works (and I only do it once, but maybe thrice is better?)
 

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