I didn't do a search before I made the post but here is a recent thread on your exact question.
Shifter comparisons
I have a friend that has the B&M(Cobra T56-same tranny different car) and after he checked out my SVS. He said no camparison in the two. I agree. SVS is much better! Pay...
Yes they are the same. I have the MGW first strike knob. It makes for a nice combo. SVS's shifter also comes with two different sizes for selection. One that is 1" lower than stock(my choice) and a 2" lower than stock.
I don't really know how to explain it other than the way it has the spring tension to stay in the center and center is 3rd and 4th. All that hunting for 3rd and 4th is much easier. I mean Nothing has really changed you are pulling slightly over of course for first and second and slightly pushing...
I don't see many people post or praise the mod but I just recently bought and installed one. :D WOW ! :D
Where have I been! I bought SVS's brand and all I can say is what a difference it is. I knew of the throw theory but their design makes it almost impossible to miss 3rd. It's spring...
The whole "GenI head gasket issue" is not of epidemic proportions as it is portrayed here. I know of 5 local GenI owners and all are running on the originals.
One of the best explanations came from JonB. I would consider him a Viper expert as well. To save you from doing a search here is a...
No. I thought about it but I don't have anyone around here that can do that. I ran mine on the Dyno primarily to get my AF readings. Everything was great so I left it alone. It probably could be tweeked in.
No problem.
Accufabs 65mm TB's run around $550 to $600 new. If you are looking for a cheaper alternative and it works just as well,I do modify GenI TB's to 62mm. Do a search for my post or look in my photo gallery. That's basically turning your GenI TB's into a GenII TB. You can buy GenII TB's...
I've done it! And to shed light or my opinion on NOS(NX Express)I had that too. It was OK but having power on tap at all times is where it's at. Besides I had a couple of violent coughs running NOS and I didn't care for that. My bottle was always empty too :curse: Running Nos is for the most...
He is correct. You can click on this link to see for yourself.
Check ARP catalog page 38
It's the same part number that you have pictured 247-4201. GenII only!
They only looked that good back then because they were new. They now look like yours do. I've thought about coating mine too.
Why does everyone think I pulled my engine out to take that pic for you ? :bonker:
The easiest way to post pics in your posts...
Here is 19 sets available from this guy on Ebay.
Borla 17078 Headers
It's been a few years since they made them. Those must be new old stock. I bet he's not selling many of them at that price. I bought mine brand new for half that because they were the old design. MSRP on these back then...
LOL! :bonker:
It would seem that way. No I had my motor out at that time for some mods. Mostly heads and a cam. I wanted to mock those headers up prior to reinstalling my motor. I had to elongate a couple of bolt holes since these headers are for a GenII. They bolt to a GenI but with some...
They are Borlas. They are their first design part #17078
I have them on my car. Borla redesigned to the collector style rather than this flange type. They were just as expensive back then as they are now. I'm sure someone will point out the improvement. Probably the size of the primary...
The Book says the following:
· Not for use by itself. Requires additional components for optimum effect.
· Fuel and spark curves calibrated to manage the following components as an engineered package:
· P4876095 air filters
· P5007362 or P5007584 smooth inlet hoses
· P5007049 race rocker...
I'm assuming when you say mopar PCM you are talking about the "upgraded" calibrated ECM....Right? The one in the Mopar performance catalog. If so my book says the 97-00 RT10 and 96-00 GTS are all the same for this controller. The part number is P5007313 and it list for $520 new. From what I can...
I got one even better for you. The 96RT10(GenI)can give you what you want. It is the OBDII or as chrysler calls it a JTEC. AEM sells a unit that will fit the 96RT10(GenI but OBDII) so keep your stock harness from your GenI motor and use the connecting harness(connects at motor and goes bact to...
One should separate passion from emotions
"please DO NOT bid unless we talk first. Thank you for viewing this auction as this car was very special to me and I want that person that buys this car to take care of it as I did."
It could be a way to lure a buyer but come on. I laugh at these...
That’s hilarious
Whoever buys it should do the following:
As you leave and pull out of his driveway (you know he will be watching it leave in sorrow), powerbrake it (not that you have to) and smoke the tires like a funny car burnout. :eek: I would pay to see that one :D
I saw it posted here before but I liked it
RCH PHKR :D
I saw this one on a street rod long time ago that I never forgot
YESSUP
He had little LED's screwed in the plate lettering and it lit the letters up backwards.
I'm partial to
PET SN8k
That's true but if you want it put in right the only way to do it is degree it in. The only way to degree a cam in is with the heads off. They don't do it for nothing or do they? Ask any real engine builder but then again it depends on your take of things. Nonetheless I want my cam where I need...
The 708 is actually part number 4763 708. The 708 is stamped on the end of the cam so I guess that's why everyone started calling it the "708" cam. Depending on your relationship with your local Dodge dealership parts man, it lists for $344. I think I got mine for like $260. That's not a bad...
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