10 second Paxton car

[RTTTTed]

The Viper is a car whose suspension ect is not (optimized)set up for drag racing .Any 18 year old kid with 15 grand and a Mustang can beat most Vipers on the road at the strip because of this reason.(Your local one Wend head over to E-TOWN for test and tune night .You will see Mustangs drive in from the street by teens running low 10s ,and some 9s and even 8s )To put it in perspective a friend of mines Mustang makes 425 to the flywheel yet runs 10.9 because the car is set up to drag.To run 9s in a Viper your not only going to need the power but the safety equiptment (cage ,batter switch shaft loops parachute ect )slicks skinnys drag shocks and the most important factor a great driver.Ps as i posted earlyier you also should have money put aside for gears and a tranny because 900 horsepower and 1.4 sixty foot times dont get along too well on these parts.

Kid with a Mustang and $15K? You're meaning a stock old Viper right? One of my girlfriends has a stock Mustang GT and a 'tune'. she goes 13.4 at the track. She won't be beating any Vipers except stock Gen1s even if she adds a supercharger kit.

Have you ever looked at a Mustang rear tire??? They are dogs on street tires. The Supersnakes are dangerous and slow because they come with skinny tires. The Viper comes with the widest stickiest stock tires in the world!!! The new ZR1 even had to change from Goodyears to Michelin to get traction. I love it that GM had to buy DODGE Tires for their car!!!

I guess we should listen to your comments on how the 13 sec Mustangs are "optimized for drag racing?" Say, the OLD Pustang IIs were also optimized for drag racing, weren't they? The old 6 cyl Valiants won't go 10 sec but I guess they had leaf springs as that is the prefered Drag suspension? New mustangs come with Coil springs and old Chevy 5 link suspensions. They invented TRACTION BARS because those junkers wheel hopped so badly. My Buddies GT500 just went in for a $5000 rear suspension upgrade. Turns out the 'HOT' Shebly GT500s also wheel hop insanely. That's why so many tuners build suspension upgrade kits for them. Do a search.

The Ultimate drag suspension was a set of Biased controlled springs that came on RR, GTX, R/Ts, Darts and Dusters. I remember the Motown Missile with it's Leaf link suspension back in the mic 70's. Having built Ladder Bar, Leaf Link, Pros Stock springs and 4 link suspensions in my cars I can tell you that the Leaf Link susp. was the best street suspension (with Mts or Sprint car tires), while at the track 4 link or Ladder Bars were the best. Stock, nothing compares to the Biased controlled springs invented by Dodge. Even the Mustangs came with Leaf springs in the old High Performance days.

I am amazed that anyone would say that a 10 sec. street car isn't "optimized for drag racing". Although wheel hop is easily attainable, 10 seconds on street tires is mind boggling. Anyone saying otherwise obviously KNOWS NOTHING about drag racing. Although the PS2s are amazing on the Road courses you can read manyn threads on this site about the huge traction improvement of the PS2s. Call JonB (most knowledgeable tire guy in VCA?) and ask him how much better the PS2s are than the PS1s. He told me they are an improvement of 40%!

Our Vipers, STOCK, are faster than the NHRA and IHRA rules will allow us to go. That the Vipers and Z06/ZR1 vettes are only allowed to go 11.5 at the race track pretty much says it all as far as I'm concerned. NHRA is telling us that our stock cars are faster than most race cars and they don't want us on their track without a rollbar and various other safety equipment added. STOCK Vipers and some corvettes are TOO fast for legal drag racing.

Ted

 

[black mamba1]

keith, i have NEVER noticed any difference in the weigh of the nose on mine. and i have an extra capacity water tank there too as of this year.

dont worry about that at all...

Good info Plum...I push my car and to have it do something unexpected at say, 130 mph would NOT be a good thing.

thanks

 

[plumcrazy]

keith, i dont get excited till around 150 or so......dont worry about 130 !

 

[black mamba1]

keith, i dont get excited till around 150 or so......dont worry about 130 !

I know what you mean. I have blown the doors of numerous Vettes and even an M6, and we routinely get up to speeds of 165-175 mph (at least I do). The Vipers get up there so quickly you just dont know how fast u r going until you look down at the speedo.

I ran into a blown C5 Z06 Vette, walked him good from 140 mph onwards..then when I got to 170, he was almost 20 cars behind me!

I just love the availability of so many closed courses!

 

[1TONY1]

Has anyone with a Paxton higher horsepower setup tried a LOWER gear - 2:7ish as a way to control tire spin? Seems like I recall the TT 8 sec Vipers going to a lower gear - but I cant recall any Paxton guys giving this a try as the torque of the V10 should be able to handle the lower gear and potentially minimize roasting the tires? Just a thought????

The very high power cars need the gear to run huge mph in the 1/4 mile 170's, 180's+. The higher gear might help a "little" but remember with a higher gear, once they start spinning it's worse than a lower gear.

So, basically Paxtonizing is for roll on's...right?

NO. It's just that tons of power won't shine as much on "street" tires. Your question reads stock or close vs Paxton .... the Paxton will cream the stock car every time. I think the difference might show in say 650whp vs 850+, without the proper tires/driver then the ET might not show the difference like mph would.

Of course...I didn't mean it in that way. Leave all the other factors the same...same driver, same temp, same track, same tires etc. One car has 640rwhp, and one has 700rwhp...generally, would the 640rwhp car have lower ETs?

No, read the above reply. At some point it will become harder on the driver to make the power shine but I would always want the higher power. You can't compare power levels by saying "same driver, same temp, same track, same tires etc" IMO, you still have to specify the tire...that question (more so with a bigger power difference) still depends on tire selection and track surface. Tires selection is obvious, but even with the same track ...well how good is the track ? Will it hold 650 and no way hold 700 at the brink of traction loss ? 60 hp isn't a huge difference at that level either.

 

[1BADGTS]

Kid with a Mustang and $15K? You're meaning a stock old Viper right? One of my girlfriends has a stock Mustang GT and a 'tune'. she goes 13.4 at the track. She won't be beating any Vipers except stock Gen1s even if she adds a supercharger kit.

Have you ever looked at a Mustang rear tire??? They are dogs on street tires. The Supersnakes are dangerous and slow because they come with skinny tires. The Viper comes with the widest stickiest stock tires in the world!!! The new ZR1 even had to change from Goodyears to Michelin to get traction. I love it that GM had to buy DODGE Tires for their car!!!

I guess we should listen to your comments on how the 13 sec Mustangs are "optimized for drag racing?" Say, the OLD Pustang IIs were also optimized for drag racing, weren't they? The old 6 cyl Valiants won't go 10 sec but I guess they had leaf springs as that is the prefered Drag suspension? New mustangs come with Coil springs and old Chevy 5 link suspensions. They invented TRACTION BARS because those junkers wheel hopped so badly. My Buddies GT500 just went in for a $5000 rear suspension upgrade. Turns out the 'HOT' Shebly GT500s also wheel hop insanely. That's why so many tuners build suspension upgrade kits for them. Do a search.

The Ultimate drag suspension was a set of Biased controlled springs that came on RR, GTX, R/Ts, Darts and Dusters. I remember the Motown Missile with it's Leaf link suspension back in the mic 70's. Having built Ladder Bar, Leaf Link, Pros Stock springs and 4 link suspensions in my cars I can tell you that the Leaf Link susp. was the best street suspension (with Mts or Sprint car tires), while at the track 4 link or Ladder Bars were the best. Stock, nothing compares to the Biased controlled springs invented by Dodge. Even the Mustangs came with Leaf springs in the old High Performance days.

I am amazed that anyone would say that a 10 sec. street car isn't "optimized for drag racing". Although wheel hop is easily attainable, 10 seconds on street tires is mind boggling. Anyone saying otherwise obviously KNOWS NOTHING about drag racing. Although the PS2s are amazing on the Road courses you can read manyn threads on this site about the huge traction improvement of the PS2s. Call JonB (most knowledgeable tire guy in VCA?) and ask him how much better the PS2s are than the PS1s. He told me they are an improvement of 40%!

Our Vipers, STOCK, are faster than the NHRA and IHRA rules will allow us to go. That the Vipers and Z06/ZR1 vettes are only allowed to go 11.5 at the race track pretty much says it all as far as I'm concerned. NHRA is telling us that our stock cars are faster than most race cars and they don't want us on their track without a rollbar and various other safety equipment added. STOCK Vipers and some corvettes are TOO fast for legal drag racing.

Ted

Ted AS USUAL YOU LIVE IN A FANTASYLAND .Here in NJ (not in the woods of CANADA )there is a dragstrip CALLED RACEWAY PARK (GOOGLE IT ) .It is one of the BEST drag racing facilitys in the world.On any Wend test and tune night THOUSANDS can show up.Fully NHRA LEGAL Mustangs are being driven in from the street running anywhere from low 10s -high 8s .Any teenager with 15s to spend on a Mustang can whip just about ANY Viper out there in the quarter.The above is a pure fact not a FANTASY .You comment on things from you perspective (basically the WOODS OF Canada)that is not the REAL WORLD.

 

[1BADGTS]

Ted AS USUAL YOU LIVE IN A FANTASYLAND .Here in NJ (not in the woods of CANADA )there is a dragstrip CALLED RACEWAY PARK (GOOGLE IT ) .It is one of the BEST drag racing facilitys in the world.On any Wend test and tune night THOUSANDS can show up.Fully NHRA LEGAL Mustangs are being driven in from the street running anywhere from low 10s -high 8s .Any teenager with 15s to spend on a Mustang can whip just about ANY Viper out there in the quarter.The above is a pure fact not a FANTASY .You comment on things from you perspective (basically the WOODS OF Canada)that is not the REAL WORLD.

Actually iam wrong as a search of DRAG TIMES indicates the record FOR A STREET DRIVEN,(street legal) MUSTANG is in the low 7s.(pretty much the fastest i have seen come off the road was 8s.)

 

[black mamba1]

ok, so now it seems pretty simple to me. What is the stickiest street legal drag radial on the market? And will this tire handle say, 800 rwhp? And if so, will the stock tranny and axle handle this power?

I would love to go to the big power if I can get it to the ground, but only if its a street legal tire, and only if I can get at least 3000 miles out of the tires.

 

[Darbgnik]

You can make a lot of solid axle cars fast in a straight line for not much money (comparatively). Especially if you don't care how it goes aroud a corner. I've never understood why a lot of people measure a sports cars performance based on a straight line. Sure goin fast in a hurry is cool and all, but these cars are engineered with something a little different in mind. Ive got friends with 10g's plus purchase price into a Mustang that'll smoke my Viper in the quarter, and am not offended at all. Just another reminder of why the quarter isn't the be-all and end-all of motorsport.

Oh ya, and I'm no good at it!




Not directed at original poster

 

[1BADGTS]

ok, so now it seems pretty simple to me. What is the stickiest street legal drag radial on the market? And will this tire handle say, 800 rwhp? And if so, will the stock tranny and axle handle this power?

I would love to go to the big power if I can get it to the ground, but only if its a street legal tire, and only if I can get at least 3000 miles out of the tires.

It depends on your defination of STREET LEGAL.Do you mean full slicks and skinnys.Do you mean running Pilots in front and drag radials in the back.As many have attested to the Viper is not a drag car (its like turning a thorough bred into a standard bred)To optimize the kind of power your talking you want to run full slicks and skinnys (front sway bar removed )and i dont think that combo is too street car friendly.

 

[1BADGTS]

ok, so now it seems pretty simple to me. What is the stickiest street legal drag radial on the market? And will this tire handle say, 800 rwhp? And if so, will the stock tranny and axle handle this power?

I would love to go to the big power if I can get it to the ground, but only if its a street legal tire, and only if I can get at least 3000 miles out of the tires.

As far as 800 to the tire i dont think you quite realize just how much power that is for a street driven car.With full out slicks and skinnys and a good driver the car will pull 1.3-1.4 sixty foot times and yes sooner or later you will break something if not everything in the driveline(its all part of racing and if your serious you had better accept that fact )

 

[black mamba1]

No, I am simply looking for the stickiest back tires that can handle 700-800 rwhp. No skinnies up front. Nothing funky like that, if BFG's will do it then that is what i will go with. Are the ACR tires really sticky?

 

[F8L SNK]

If you are looking for a sticky street legal tire I have already suggested the Mickey Thompson Drag Radial. 345/35/18 but you will need to run the emergency brake cable relocation brackets to fit the 18's on the car. The stock transmission will handle it as long as you are not "side stepping" the clutch. If you ride it out it will hold. The stock diff and half shafts are the same. I have 9,000 VERY hard miles on my SRT C. I never broke the stock diff/halfshafts or transmission. I changed the transmission to a G Force to be on the safe side and to get the new 5th and 6th gears for standing mile events.

I still have the stock diff and half shafts. I have been 800+ hp since the car had 2,000 miles on it. I currently have 1,150+ and I have run a 9.56 @ 155 with this combination. The 60' still ***** at a 1.78 on these tires, but again I am running the stock rear end and half shaft.

I did hurt the G Force this weekend however on the street. I am probably going to try the new 08 transmission, which may be a great solution for you. It shifts WAY nicer and holds way more power.

Good luck with the Paxton, I would change the clutch and transmission, put Mickey's on it and be done.

Last, no the Sport Cups on the ACR are not up to this power lever. I would run the PS2s or Invo's and put the drag radials on when you really want to hook.

 

[black mamba1]

If you are looking for a sticky street legal tire I have already suggested the Mickey Thompson Drag Radial. 345/35/18 but you will need to run the emergency brake cable relocation brackets to fit the 18's on the car. The stock transmission will handle it as long as you are not "side stepping" the clutch. If you ride it out it will hold. The stock diff and half shafts are the same. I have 9,000 VERY hard miles on my SRT C. I never broke the stock diff/halfshafts or transmission. I changed the transmission to a G Force to be on the safe side and to get the new 5th and 6th gears for standing mile events.

I still have the stock diff and half shafts. I have been 800+ hp since the car had 2,000 miles on it. I currently have 1,150+ and I have run a 9.56 @ 155 with this combination. The 60' still ***** at a 1.78 on these tires, but again I am running the stock rear end and half shaft.

I did hurt the G Force this weekend however on the street. I am probably going to try the new 08 transmission, which may be a great solution for you. It shifts WAY nicer and holds way more power.

Good luck with the Paxton, I would change the clutch and transmission, put Mickey's on it and be done.

Last, no the Sport Cups on the ACR are not up to this power lever. I would run the PS2s or Invo's and put the drag radials on when you really want to hook.

Wonderful info! Thanks!

 

[Dan Cragin]

Putting the hp aside, a good chassis setup will make a huge difference. The right spring rates and shock valving, proper preload on the control arm bushings and removing the front sway bar will really help. On the driveline side, a torque sensing differential will get the power down, upgraded half shafts wont snap, better engine and transmission mounts will transmit the power better, a staged clutch will help the launch and hold the power and a better shifter will keep missed shifts under control. Tires are the biggest benefit, Hoosiers will fit the stock wheel or you can go all out and make mods to fit a 15 inch wheel and real drag slick.

Just my 2 cents,

 

[black mamba1]

Putting the hp aside, a good chassis setup will make a huge difference. The right spring rates and shock valving, proper preload on the control arm bushings and removing the front sway bar will really help. On the driveline side, a torque sensing differential will get the power down, upgraded half shafts wont snap, better engine and transmission mounts will transmit the power better, a staged clutch will help the launch and hold the power and a better shifter will keep missed shifts under control. Tires are the biggest benefit, Hoosiers will fit the stock wheel or you can go all out and make mods to fit a 15 inch wheel and real drag slick.

Just my 2 cents,

Anytime you chime in Dan it is a wonderful benefit to us all and I really appreciate your contribution to this subject. It is always a reward to hear from a tuner that is in the trenches everyday.

I am going to s/c this Viper. The reason I am doing so is b/c Tator set up the enginie for high rwhp, and I paid for this set up. However, there has to be something we are simply not really addressing here, beside guys like 9ball and 1Bad; and that is the fact that there HAS TO BE A POINT where more rwhp is more of a problem than a benefit.

I want a car that is kick ass in roll ons, can hold her own in 1/4 mile races, and is still a decent track car. That is all I want. I dont want a dyno war car. I dont want a high maintenance car that is tempermental.

I gotta say that w/ my current cream puff power I am undefeated in all roll ons and I have a blast at the track. But all that means is that I have not run across the right competitor...which brings me to my next point. 1Bad said that on any given night there are guys w/ $15,000 Mustangs running low 10's and even 9's at the track. Hell, here in Charlotte there are guys w/ pickup trucks and school buses running 10's.

Lets simply be real here, and you, DC, as a tuner that has already said you prefer to keep cars n/a for road courses, are a perfect selection to make a point here.

I want to win roll on races. I want to win most 1/4 mile races, I want to track my car w/out my engine exploding. I also want traction in most driving situations. Now, I have all these wants currently satisfied but I am ready to slap on the Paxton to go to the next level. I know I sound like my wife (and probably many of yours) with all these wants, but I am not looking for dyno sheet bragging rights..I am looking to win races.

 

[Camfab]

"I want to win roll on races. I want to win most 1/4 mile races, I want to track my car w/out my engine exploding. I also want traction in most driving situations."

Why did'nt you just say so in the first place!

Just something to think about..............you say you had Tator build the motor for a blower, and that's the only reason your going blown. I say, your going to spend more money on something you may not necessarily think was the best choice. That Paxton set up you want is going to cost you more money than pulling your motor and putting in a set of 11:5-1 JE's and the right cam. Which by the way will run 10's all day long (assuming a decent driver without run flats) without issue AND without 100lbs of extra weight AND kick butt on a roadcourse. I'm not bagging on the Paxton, I'm just going by what you said.

Sorry I just could'nt help myself

 

[plumcrazy]

Im a big believer in talking with your tuner (UGR in this case) and getting UGR's opinion on how to set the car up. UGR has a TON of viper experience and will be doing the work. let them tell you how to get to your goals. then do it

camfabs idea might be the way UGR tells you to go but the cost is gonna be the same i bet or close enough.

 

[1BADGTS]

Keith i strongly suggest you research the hell out of this project BEFORE it turns into a money pit(back when i was racing i learned the hardway that one can drop 30-40 grand in a Viper in mods and theres still some teenager DRIVING a wrent a reck thats faster As far as reliability the more power you run ,the more traction you get THE LESS RELIABLE YOU ARE All in all you might want to hit the closest (MAJOR )track near you on a test and tune night to see what your up against .(If your in Conn ,head on down to E-Town on any Wend night)

 

[1BADGTS]

Keith i strongly suggest you research the hell out of this project BEFORE it turns into a money pit(back when i was racing i learned the hardway that one can drop 30-40 grand in a Viper in mods and theres still some teenager DRIVING a wrent a reck thats faster As far as reliability the more power you run ,the more traction you get THE LESS RELIABLE YOU ARE All in all you might want to hit the closest (MAJOR )track near you on a test and tune night to see what your up against .(If your in Conn ,head on down to E-Town on any Wend night)

Case in point Muscle Mustang and Fast Ford has a WHITE 03-04 (last year they were made )Lightening Pickup.The truck probably has over 90k miles on it Staff members use it to go everywhere (COMPLETELY STREETABLE ).The last time i checked it was on the verge of running 9s with under 10 grand in mods done to it. (bigger blower ,different cams suspension work ect )

 

[black mamba1]

"I want to win roll on races. I want to win most 1/4 mile races, I want to track my car w/out my engine exploding. I also want traction in most driving situations."

Why did'nt you just say so in the first place!

Just something to think about..............you say you had Tator build the motor for a blower, and that's the only reason your going blown. I say, your going to spend more money on something you may not necessarily think was the best choice. That Paxton set up you want is going to cost you more money than pulling your motor and putting in a set of 11:5-1 JE's and the right cam. Which by the way will run 10's all day long (assuming a decent driver without run flats) without issue AND without 100lbs of extra weight AND kick butt on a roadcourse. I'm not bagging on the Paxton, I'm just going by what you said.

Sorry I just could'nt help myself

This is very very intriguing. What kind of max rwhp can be made if I go this route?

 

[1TONY1]

I want to win roll on races. I want to win most 1/4 mile races, I want to track my car w/out my engine exploding. I also want traction in most driving situations.

Nitrous for now. Cheap and you can always change it.

 

[Nader]

If this guy is putting together N/A 700 HP genIII engines, I am sure there are other tuners doing it as well.

2003 & up V-10 Viper Street/Race Motor - ViperClub Classifieds

 

[1BADGTS]

This is very very intriguing. What kind of max rwhp can be made if I go this route?

It DEPENDS .How big a cam (solid or hyd )do you want to run (inturn are you worried about emissions and driveability )Are you going to do the bottom end .All in all on pump gas on a complete worked engine your probably going to trap in the low 130s (about where a Gen 4 is ) on Pilots The only difference is the Gen 4 is going to be a ton more streetable and if anything happens Dodge covers it .

 

[RTTTTed]

Ted AS USUAL YOU LIVE IN A FANTASYLAND .Here in NJ (not in the woods of CANADA )there is a dragstrip CALLED RACEWAY PARK (GOOGLE IT ) .It is one of the BEST drag racing facilitys in the world.On any Wend test and tune night THOUSANDS can show up.Fully NHRA LEGAL Mustangs are being driven in from the street running anywhere from low 10s -high 8s .Any teenager with 15s to spend on a Mustang can whip just about ANY Viper out there in the quarter.The above is a pure fact not a FANTASY .You comment on things from you perspective (basically the WOODS OF Canada)that is not the REAL WORLD.

Insulting where I live and my intelligence is about all you can do. As usual you just make everything up and say I'm "not in the real world???

As YOU KNOW, I've driven across the continent several times. your area doesn't seem special - so I've never been there. You've never been here so why make ignorant comments about places you know nothing about? Why make ignorant comments about my knowledge? You can't even spell most of the time. You seem to have NO mechanical abilities at all and rant about vettes better than Vipers constatnly.

I built all my own cars and lived near Mission Raceway. I lived in Vancouver most of my life. I shouldn't have to write my history just to prove you knwo nothing and are pretty much incorrect with all your comments.

Ted

 

[1BADGTS]

Ted whether you chose to believe it or not the REAL WORLD is TRUE STREET DRIVEN MUSTANGS that run 8s-10s THATS A FACT.YOU HAVE NEVER DRIVEN, OWNED OR RODE A CURRENT Gen Viper =ANOTHER FACT.Ted you geographic location makes it almost IMPOSSIBLE for you to experiance any of TODAYS CARS (not cars engineered 20 years ago )yet you comment on thinks you know nothing about.

 

[1BADGTS]

Roe Racing makes a Twinscrew supercahrger kit for a Gen 3 now.

Since you've got forged low compression pistons you're a candidate!

My 720+RWHP Roe went 10.5@139mph on PS1s. It's much faster with the PS2s! The Paxton needs more than 750rwhp as it starts stock and then goes to big power starting at 3500rpms. A 860rwhp TT went 10.6@140mph on BFG drag radials, so think that way. My torque at 2,000rpm is up around 800rwtq and feels like full throttle at fast idle. No waiting for power - it starts strong and stays strong throughout.

However, you can add Nitrous and get the 10s out of it easily. Wait until you have traction - then hit the button.

Jamie Furman got his time after much work and waiting for perfect conditions. Many of us live at altitude and many of us only drag race once in a great while. It's also illegal to run faster than 11.5 without an approved rollbar. Then there's rollcage, firejacket, collar, funnycar rollcage, window net, scattershield, driveshaft loop, approved flywheel and clutch, etc. etc. Hopefully you know all the NHRA rules?

Jamie rents the track.

Hope this helps you out.

Ted

The above QUOTE BY Ted is TYPICAL of his MISINFORMATION.Rowe does not sell a blower for a Gen 3 (of coarse Ted claims they do)Ted has NEVER raced or even seen Jamie run yet he knows all ahout him ect.

 

[Lee00blacksilverGTS]

Ted/Joe knock off attacking each other and stay on topic or you two will cause this interesting and informative thread to go away.
Joe, I'm going to record that you threw the first punch on this one with your fantasyland comment and insults as to where Ted lives so be aware.
And I don't want any back talk on this either so neither of you go there, just knock off the attacks on each other. Maybe you should put each other on ignore if this keeps happening.

 

[jamie furman]

No, I am simply looking for the stickiest back tires that can handle 700-800 rwhp. No skinnies up front. Nothing funky like that, if BFG's will do it then that is what i will go with. Are the ACR tires really sticky?

ACR tires are not that sticky for drag racing, but a good set of BF Goodrich drag radials should hook up good with what you are looking for and can be put on with out messing with the front tires. I have seen high hp cars run 8's with drag radials and stock suspension.

 

[black mamba1]

ACR tires are not that sticky for drag racing, but a good set of BF Goodrich drag radials should hook up good with what you are looking for and can be put on with out messing with the front tires. I have seen high hp cars run 8's with drag radials and stock suspension.

8's? Wow! Thanks for chiming in Jamie.

Now, back to the Fat Albert motors. I already have a built up lower end. If I just replaced my heads could I go higher c/r and get to 600 rwhp? And how much would it cost to get heads for this power?