Engine light, will not crank, help

[ViperGMC]

The engine light came on, 2 minutes later the car died. Now when I hit the start button nothing. Anyone have any ideas

 

[Cris]

Is it possible the Paxton electrical connections could have come loose or caused an open circuit? The Split Second control unit splices into the ignition key on circuit, which may prevent the start system from working. It also splices into both cam and crank sensor leads, which if the cam sensor is lost would cause a MIL and allow the engine to continue in limp home mode. If/when the crank signal is lost the engine will stop. This really sounds electrical, and given that you have a Paxton installed I would start looking in that arena first.

 

[ledfoot]

I was just going to say that,but Cris beat me to it.....J/K.....Cris your knowledge is scary....

 

[ViperGMC]

The ASD fuse was blown. I replaced it and the car will start, but it runs very rough. I took a spin around the parking lot and the fuse blew again. My scanner is now reporting “ignition coil A primary/secondary circuit malfunction”. I guess the coil is down somehow. Anybody seen this before?

 

[Cris]

Ha! Even more straight forward. Someone once said to check the fuse first. Smart man.

 

[DB/Paxton SRT-10]

Do you think this has something to do with the Racelogic system?

 

[ViperGMC]

I don’t know yet, I have e-mailed them to ask if this is possible. One possibility could be, the Racelogic unit is connected the #1 ignition signal wire and some how it shorted causing something to go wrong with the ignition. I placed the control in the engine compartment and with all the rain we have been having, maybe some water seeped in and shorted the unit. I checked all the wiring and splice points to make sure everything as the way it should be and did notice a cut in the insulation on the RPM signal wire. But its low voltage, so I don’t if that caused something or not.

I have the TC unit unplugged and the injector wires reconnected. I wired the system in with a connector and made loop connector to bypass the TC if I ever needed to remove it or it failed. Anyway, once I get the new ignition installed I can verify that it was bad and take it from there.

 

[mark777]

I would also be interested in what solved your problem since I am also in the process of installing the Racelogix TC as well...

I told my Vipertech about using the #1 ignition Signal Wire to get RPM... Maybe we can also talk to Dodge and see if there is any other way to connect to Tach (to get RPM's)...

I recently had problems with car not cranking due to battery drain and non-use since all the rain here in Vegas... Got a portable battery manager for this...