First review (Vipair coil overs)

[GTS-R 001]

The factory uses the longer springs because they don't use a helper spring like the MCS, and the "effective" rates are 1/2 of what we use so yes they have a longer spring installed. The available rate of the spring in the car is still the

2003-2006 SRT-10:
Front: 200 lb/in
Rear: 500 lb/in

And 2008 SRT-10:
Front: 210 lb/in
Rear: 525 lb/in

So no the factory is not doing it wrong.

The shorter springs we use also benefit in the fact they weigh less then 1/2 what the stock do so that is a good thing too.

Mark,

My point is that the factory preloads the coilovers with longer springs, the 3.5 inches of 200 lb front spring preloads (i.e.) stores energy of 700 lbs per corner on the front, the rear preload of 1.5+ inches on the rear with 500lb springs preloads or stores energy of 750 lbs on each corner at the rear, They are not doing it wrong and my my statement of if you pre-load the shorter springs and the pic I posted shows that you can keep the coil-over from squishing the first inch by pre-loading the spring. If they preloaded another couple of inches worth of spring, they can effectively raise the car with the stored energy, when compared to where it sits with out the extra preload.

So when you lower the car on the factory preloaded coilovers with a weight of 3400 lbs, the front coilovers will support 1400 lbs before they compress any, 3400/2=1700 so that leaves 300 lbs left to compress the coilovers up front by 300/2 = 150 , for 200lb linear sprinsg this will now compress the front another 3/4 of an inch.

The rears 3400/2=1700 - (750x2) = 200 lbs left over which for 500 lb rear springs will compress the rear by 500x2=1000/200 = 1/5 of an inch, add gas go a little lower

This is how the factory uses low spring rate springs and still supports the car and keep it at the height they want it at.

The helpers, which I use as well, are primarily there to keep the springs in line when the car is jacked up.

 

[mjorgensen Woodhouse]

The stock shock has enough travel to compress the lower rate springs and still have adequate travel in "both" directions, and as I stated,

"How does "preloading and compressing the already "topped out" spring raise the car any higher? If the spring is being compressed and "preloaded" then the stroke of the shock is maxed out and on the upward motion and the shock will "top out" (opposite of bottoming out obviously) causing other issues."

Your statement;
if you pre-load the shorter springs and the pic I posted shows that you can keep the coil-over from squishing the first inch by pre-loading the spring. If they preloaded another couple of inches worth of spring, they can effectively raise the car with the stored energy


And I also know why the helper is used...

Mark,

My point is that the factory preloads the coilovers with longer springs, the 3.5 inches of 200 lb front spring preloads (i.e.) stores energy of 700 lbs per corner on the front, the rear preload of 1.5+ inches on the rear with 500lb springs preloads or stores energy of 750 lbs on each corner at the rear, They are not doing it wrong and my my statement of if you pre-load the shorter springs and the pic I posted shows that you can keep the coil-over from squishing the first inch by pre-loading the spring. If they preloaded another couple of inches worth of spring, they can effectively raise the car with the stored energy, when compared to where it sits with out the extra preload.

So when you lower the car on the factory preloaded coilovers with a weight of 3400 lbs, the front coilovers will support 1400 lbs before they compress any, 3400/2=1700 so that leaves 300 lbs left to compress the coilovers up front by 300/2 = 150 , for 200lb linear sprinsg this will now compress the front another 3/4 of an inch.

The rears 3400/2=1700 - (750x2) = 200 lbs left over which for 500 lb rear springs will compress the rear by 500x2=1000/200 = 1/5 of an inch, add gas go a little lower

This is how the factory uses low spring rate springs and still supports the car and keep it at the height they want it at.

The helpers, which I use as well, are primarily there to keep the springs in line when the car is jacked up.

 

[troublemaker]

I'm kind of surprised cars haven't implemented negative springs in there engineering. Maybe it isn't needed with a static load of a car like it is a Mountain Bike. You would be amazed at the technology that is in a bike shock compared to a car. It would cancel out 99% of ever topping out the damper as it hits a progressive internal spring at the the droop limit. With the primary spring working to hold the damper from compressing and the negative spring holding the shock from completely extending it holds the shaft at a neutral position in the interior of the stroke and keeps the shock at more of the meat and potatoes of the damping range. I'm sure it's been tried as I would hope the dumbest engineer out there is smarter than me.

 

[GTS-R 001]

The stock shock has enough travel to compress the lower rate springs and still have adequate travel in "both" directions, and as I stated,

"How does "preloading and compressing the already "topped out" spring raise the car any higher? If the spring is being compressed and "preloaded" then the stroke of the shock is maxed out and on the upward motion and the shock will "top out" (opposite of bottoming out obviously) causing other issues."

Your statement;
if you pre-load the shorter springs and the pic I posted shows that you can keep the coil-over from squishing the first inch by pre-loading the spring. If they preloaded another couple of inches worth of spring, they can effectively raise the car with the stored energy


And I also know why the helper is used...

Mark,

My comment about being able to raise the car by preloading the spring is relative, it should always be limited to only preloading by a force less than the actual weight of the car. Dodge comes close but they are doing it with low spring rate springs, to preload a 500 lb spring the same as Dodge preloads their front suspension you would preload (compress it) only and inch and 1/4 or so, vs the 3.5 inches dodge does with their 200 lb springs.

i.e. in other words if your car weighs 3400 lbs, and it is 50/50 then divide by 4 = 850 lbs per corner. now if you put 850 lb springs on each corner with NO preload your car will compress your springs 1", i.e. it will sit lower that the topped off position of the shock by 1" if you preload those springs any, you will effectively start raising the car above stock ride height to a maximum of 1". You can preload them by 2000 lbs each if you want but you will still only raise it 1 inch and you will have no travel at all as the spring rate will overcome all the forces that can be applied.

If someone wants their car, for some reason, 1/4 inch higher than stock they can do it with yours or my coil-overs, just by cranking the nuts tighter.

In order to keep the car at the top of the coilover one would have to preload a combined force of 3400+ lbs which I am not recommending, I am just stating that one can do so and that one must calculate the amount of spring, the rate and the travel in their equation to see what they need to use based on their desired ride height and ride quality they desire.

If someone buys my -1 coil-lovers and sets the nuts to snug up under the springs and then decides they want the car 1/4 inch higher it would just take for them to turn the nut a few turns, about 5/16th and they would raise the car that height, the coil-over will still function fine, do I recommend them tightening the spring by over an inch or an inch and a half, NO, they should just buy the taller coil-over then if they want stock ride height

 

[Mamba52]

The cross over dips down under the belly pan. You can do it but be prepared to be scraping over every speed bump. Just take a peek under there. Mine is now flat just like the 08/10 cars.

My bad seams like I installed my belly pan upside down. it was late that night didn't get to bed till 3:30am.

 

[Grisoman]

I am SO looking forward to getting Steve's lowered coilovers and BBK . . . . hope the production status changes to 'final assembly' soon! Keep the experiences coming.

 

[Viktimize]

So what's the verdict?? Is the ride less harsh than stock??

 

[GTS-R 001]

So what's the verdict?? Is the ride less harsh than stock??

I talked to Shawn night before last, he really likes the ride, I think he said so in one of his first posts,

Here's a pic of Jerome in TExas's Gen 1 coilovers

 

[pumpgas]

Okay, I did just talk to Steve and I guess they have shipped! Looking forward to installing them.

 

[troublemaker]

Somebody get a track review for these up. Its one of this years upgrades, but I only want to do it once.

 

[Paul Hawker]

These kinda look like the old Aldans. Are they made by the same people?

Great price.

 

[Mad Max]

Somebody get a track review for these up. Its one of this years upgrades, but I only want to do it once.

I second this. Please.

 

[Viktimize]

I talked to Shawn night before last, he really likes the ride, I think he said so in one of his first posts,

He just said it rides good I thought I saw. Which means different things to different people. I don't want my ride any stiffer, I want it to be less harsh. Pretty sure I'm going to go with these anyway as I'm sure they're at least better than stock and they're affordable.

 

[SSGNRDZ_28]

Maybe these have been answered before, but I still have a few questions:

For a Gen IV with stock ride height how will these benefit:

Street Ride Comfort
Track Handling

Is there any guide to adjustment settings for the street and track?
How will the spring rate compare to stock?
Are all of the shocks identically built or does it vary by application?
What is the weight savings?
What is the reliability compared to OEM?
Cost is $1500 / set?

 

[ACRucrazy]

Is there a dyno available for these ?

 

[GTS-R 001]

Maybe these have been answered before, but I still have a few questions:

For a Gen IV with stock ride height how will these benefit:

Street Ride Comfort
Track Handling

Is there any guide to adjustment settings for the street and track?
How will the spring rate compare to stock?
Are all of the shocks identically built or does it vary by application?
What is the weight savings?
What is the reliability compared to OEM?
Cost is $1500 / set?

Answers :

Cost is $1500 / set? - YES, $1500 plus shipping

What is the reliability compared to OEM? - They come with a lifetime rebuild warranty against leaking, if they leak you send em in and they are rebuilt and shipped back.

What is the weight savings? - Good question, they will be significantly light, all billet aluminum and the springs are lighter (but better) than the stock springs, I will weigh some.

Are all of the shocks identically built or does it vary by application? - I offer stock ride height shocks for those that will run their car at stock or up to 1.5 inch lowered. I then have shorter -1 sets for those that intend to have the Uber cool 2" lowered look but still want a fully functioning shock that will not blow its seals because it is being asked to work out of range.

How will the spring rate compare to stock? - The spring rates are different form stock, but I use springs and spring rates that are the same or very similar to what all the Motons, Penskes etc are installed with.

Is there any guide to adjustment settings for the street and track? - They have height, rebound and dampening control on the front and Height and dampening on the rear., you can also change the springs for the track as well. Will they be as good as a $6000 set of coilovers for the track, NO, will they be better and give you more ability to refine your ride than stock - YES

 

[Mamba52]

Ok so the weather was great today and I drove the Viper to work and back. I love the way my Viper rides with Steve's coil overs yes it's beter then stock in my opinion. Firm but not harsh. And the stance looks so much better. Guess we will have to wait till the rest of the Vipar coil over guys chime in.

 

[Green viper 1]

Ok so the weather was great today and I drove the Viper to work and back. I love the way my Viper rides with Steve's coil overs yes it's beter then stock in my opinion. Firm but not harsh. And the stance looks so much better. Guess we will have to wait till the rest of the Vipar coil over guys chime in.

Guess you got the ride height handled

 

[kenphjr]

Well mine are due to arrive on Mon-however it is snowing again and they are salting the roads again-Might be a while till I'm actually out on the road

 

[ohlarikd]

Well mine are due to arrive on Mon-however it is snowing again and they are salting the roads again-Might be a while till I'm actually out on the road

I know - this weekend is supposed to be 57 degrees, the roads were looking pretty good finally, but then suddenly today its snowing and I just watched the salt and sand truck just go by... arrrrrrrg.

I am interested in these as well.

 

[ZZ SRT]

I got mine in yesterday. I may try to install tomorrow!