Flushing coolant out of the block....

[Silver Snake]

Ok, I stole this pic from AB. I hope he doesn't mind, but I have a question. Is this the plug I want to remove when flushing the coolant out of the block? I noticed there is another just like it on the opposite side.

Thanks
Mark

 

[AviP]

Yes it is. You need a male pipe socket. I had a hard time identifying it the first time I did a coolant flush because the image in the service manual looked different. Make sure you don't over-torque it.

 

[Ron]

The plugs are factory installed with a locktite type sealant. Will take a high degree of force until they snap free. I'd suggest cleaning the threads and reinstalling with antiseize instead. I did and experienced no leaks. Also in lieu of the proper wrench, a ground down socket extension works well.

 

[ViperRay]

Anybody know what the torque spec is for these?

 

[Qualitywires.com]

use a propane torch and go back and forth, this will help tremendously with getting it out. It's a weird piece that will require a special socket.

By the way, Doug Levin is the one that helped me get mine out with the advice above.

 

[SNKEBIT]

put a pet-[******] back in there and ya won't have to worry 'bout it not coming out anymore!!!

 

[Bad_Byte]

Yes it is. You need a male pipe socket. I had a hard time identifying it the first time I did a coolant flush because the image in the service manual looked different. Make sure you don't over-torque it.

I've been fighting with trying to locate one of the necessary sockets. I'm looking in the McMasters catalog on line cause I know I saw one in there but can't find it again. I've even sent McMasters an e-mail requesting assistance and they were kind enough to tell me to go look on line. What a company!

If you have any idea where I can locate on I'd be grateful. I've tried lots of things including the grinding down a real socket only to end up bending it or destroying the plug and having to drill it out then use an easy out. Actually drilling and using an easy out seems easy come to think of it. I think this time I'll replace them with a standard plug that will accept a 3/8" drive extension, also the petcock idea not a bad one.

 

[snakebitdave]

I used a short length of 5/16" steel(prox 8" long)square key stock and put a crescent wrench on the end opposite the plug. When re-installing I use pipe dope.

 

[luc]

I replaced mine with some "regular" Allen sized plugs with Teflon tape for a leak free instalation.

I was going to use some aluminum plugs (to save some weight!!), but i was told that it was a bad idea since the engine is also aluminum.

Luc.00GTS

 

[Steve-Indy]

ViperRay asked " Anybody know what the torque spec is for these? "

For what it's worth, I have NEVER been able to find torque specs for these block plugs...then, when asking a Viper Tech about them, he noted that they are PIPE THREADS and there are no specs...tighten to a reasonable level ("feel"), then check for leaks after coolant refill completed and engine has been run.

Others may be of more help.

 

[AviP]

If I recollect correctly, these are pipe threads similar to plumbing fittings. National Pipe Taper (NPT) threads do not have torque ratings because they taper. You torque them until they stop leaking and as long it does not seem like a ridiculous amount of force. Please post the NPT size as well as the socket size. I think the size is 5/16" male pipe plug socket. Here are some links.

http://jcsonlinetoolshed.com/product.php/12991/504//ce5005034c07f906eef906c0ed93b0fa
http://www.etoolcart.com/browseproducts/Pipe-Plug-Socket-Set-SK-19781.HTML

 

[Bad_Byte]

If I recollect correctly, these are pipe threads similar to plumbing fittings. National Pipe Taper (NPT) threads do not have torque ratings because they taper. You torque them until they stop leaking and as long it does not seem like a ridiculous amount of force. Please post the NPT size as well as the socket size. I think the size is 5/16" male pipe plug socket. Here are some links.

http://jcsonlinetoolshed.com/product.php/12991/504//ce5005034c07f906eef906c0ed93b0fa
http://www.etoolcart.com/browseproducts/Pipe-Plug-Socket-Set-SK-19781.HTML

I'm sure its a 5/16" hole. I've tried the key stock and all that happend was I became stronger and the keystock twisted. It needed to be hardened. The pipe socket is the way to go I'm sure.

Thanks for the links.

Viper club comes through again for me.

 

[Silver Snake]

Ok, so I asked several people (including Home Depot employee's) and no one even knew what a pipe socket was. Can someone give me more info?

Also, if I cannot remove the plugs, can I drain the radiator and fill with distilled water, run engine until operating temperature, drain radiator and repeat a few times? Will that get all the coolant out?

Thanks
Mark

 

[AviP]

You won't find it in Sears, Home Depot or Lowes. I tried a while back and received blank looks. I suggest ordering from the links above or grounding down a 3/8" extension rod. I did the latter because I was in a hurry and it worked fine.

 

[Ron]

Grinding the extension rod works perfectly, just a lot of trail and error to get the size right. Flushing by filling with distilled water and draining is quite time consuming (run to hot, cool almost completely to refill) but would work. Just put in the correct amount of 100% antifreeze to mix with the trapped water then top off with 100% distilled water.