Help for trackdays - Wheels alignment

[Vipertop]

Hi,

Again me, the french guy

Just one question :

What's the best wheels alignment for my SRT-10 for trackdays ? For information, I have Sport Cups (295 front/345 back), ACR black wheels, ACR brakes (Stoptech and Mintex pad) and KW Variant 2.

Thanks for your help

 

[mjorgensen Woodhouse]

- 2.5 camber in front
- 1.2 camber rear

.20 degrees total toe in in the rear
0 toe front, if you want it more stable then .1 total toe in and if you want it twitchy with great turn in .1 total toe out.

Max equal per side caster in the front and unless you have the proper tools don't mess with the rear caster, but make small adjustment when changing camber to minimize any affect you will make on it.

Ride hight in the front 4.5" and 5.75" rear, you can go about a 1/2" lower if it is a smooth track and ONLY a track car.

Good luck,

 

[gb66gth]

I would listen to Mjorgensen, he is THE man when it comes to this kind of stuff.

 

[Vipertop]

Thanks for your help

Just for information : I drive also on the road. Can I drive my SRT with this setup ?

And for my KW Variant 2 :

13 turns in front, 9 turns in rear (18 turns is the max). What do you think ?

 

[Boxer12]

A modified (less agressive) setup would be advisable for road/track use. I would suggest -1.5 fr camber and -.5 rear camber.

If you have no aero on the car, then I would go with a softer suspension to start (esp if there are curbs to run over) and go from there. You have to adjust both rebound and damping. Try this:

Front Damper	Front Rebound	Rear Damper	Rear Rebound
-3	-7	-8	-5

 

[mjorgensen Woodhouse]

If you don't drive it everyday on the street then the numbers I gave will probably never wear the tires before they get old. If you put 10,000 street miles a year then yes I would reduce the amount as Boxer12 recommends. The other advantage to his suggestions is that you have a flatter foot print for braking and accelerating on the street then when the car is driven hard at the track so it is a compromise.

The outside edges at the track with the reduced camber will wear quickly though and may ruin the tire faster then driving on the street with the higher numbers I gave so keep that in mind also. Everything with high performance is a compromise so choose what you can live with and learn to drive with those settings because the car dynamics are very different from one to another.

As for your shock question, the stiffer rear springs will generally benefit from a slight amount more rebound stiffness then the front. This will really change your driving experience so if you go there try it in a sake place first to get used to it before doing any spirited street driving.

Be safe,

 

[Vipertop]

As for your shock question, the stiffer rear springs will generally benefit from a slight amount more rebound stiffness then the front. This will really change your driving experience so if you go there try it in a sake place first to get used to it before doing any spirited street driving.

Be safe,

Thanks for your advice

I don't have aero on the car.

I drive may be 7000 miles/year with my Viper. 2000 miles on trackdays (Magny Cours, Le Mans...).

I don't understand one thing.

Last year, on my KW Variant 2, I put 11 in front and 8 in rear (18 maximum). So it's more stiffness in front. And with 13 (front) and 9 (rear), it's very stiffness in front. Is it a good idea or not ?