Help with callipers PLEASE

MULE

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Okay, what is the secret to getting that little pin out of the rear callipers to change the pads??? My car is on stands in the garage right now as I am installing slotted rotors and EBC reds. I spent 1 1/2 hours trying to figure out how to get that damn pin out! Is there a secret or what???

Thanks in advance.
 

monnieh

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I think you need to "modify" a chisel to get to it. I have a picture of it.

May be posted in the tech section.
 

1TONY1

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Trying to remember.....front has pins and on the rear you can take the two caliper bolts out to remove the caliper. Does the rear have pins.......I can go see if you need me to.
 

Snake Bitten

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There's one pin per caliper on the rear...you need a very small diameter punch or philips screwdriver...reach around the back of the caliper and "punch" it out...tap your punch or screwdriver with a small hammer or what not...be careful that the spring on top of the pads doesn't go flying and get lost...

The key is something long, tiny diameter, and tapping from the inside of the caliper, and don't loose the tiny spring...
 

JonB

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There's one pin per caliper on the rear...you need a very small diameter punch or philips screwdriver...reach around the back of the caliper and "punch" it out...tap your punch or screwdriver with a small hammer or what not...be careful that the spring on top of the pads doesn't go flying and get lost...

The key is something long, tiny diameter, and tapping from the inside of the caliper, and don't loose the tiny spring...

Gerald is exacly on, esp for 92-00. And when you get pads out, you can/must then recess the pistons with the tips of a needle-nose pliears, if you dont have the special tool.
Dont misplace the clips/pins. Not serviced seperately
 
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MULE

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I was able to get the one side with that method, but the other side is not budging! I was hoping someone who has done this a hundred times has stumbled on to a little trick. By the way, the side that I did get out took a hell of a lot more than 'tapping'. I have a '93 maybe its just the age. The car still has the original brakes and pads.
 

Snake Bitten

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Brake dust has probably set up in there...Shoot penetrating oil in and around the pin and let it set overnight...You can soak it since you're changing the rotors and the pads...

Put some electrical tape on the needle-nose so "when" you slip, you don't scar the piston...
 
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MULE

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Yeah, I already gave up for the night and have the penetrating oil already sprayed.

Recess the piston with needlenose pliers? Are you talking about compressing the piston in order to fit the thicker new pad in? If so, try 'C' clamp vise grips. No slipping. A small threaded 'C' clamp may work also.
 

Snake Bitten

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Yeah, I already gave up for the night and have the penetrating oil already sprayed.

Recess the piston with needlenose pliers? Are you talking about compressing the piston in order to fit the thicker new pad in? If so, try 'C' clamp vise grips. No slipping. A small threaded 'C' clamp may work also.


Negative! Not on your rear calipers...That works on the fronts, which you can usually push in by hand, but on the rear, things are different, and when you get the pads off you will see the two little holes in the piston...Use the needle nose, like JonB said, with electrical tape on the ends, and turn the piston clockwise to recess it...It will probably be very, very difficult at first, judging by how tough it is just to get your pins out...But the more you turn it, the easier it gets...Take your time with this and just recess it enough to get your new pads back in...
 

Janni

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Just as an aside.....(92 - 00 only)

If you are changing the rotors on the rear, too, then you DO NOT have to remove the caliper to do this. Just like up the wheel studs so that there is one at 12 o'clock and one at 6 o'clock and then you can remove the rotor without removing the caliper.

Let us know how it works out for you.
 
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MULE

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No way! I'm not doubting you it just seems amazingly impossible. I am changing pads and rotors on all four corners so I need to getinto the caliper anyway, but I am going to try that just to see if it works. If so that is good info If I ever warp another rotor. Warped the right front badly at Gingerman a couple of weeks ago. Hopefully these slotted will reduce some heat. Next step is to look into some ducting.
 
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MULE

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Okay, the rears are done and look pretty cool. Thanks for all the help everyone.

The fronts start with a problem right out of the gate.
What the hell size socket fits the caliper bolts?!?!? Are you going to laugh if I say 23/32 is my guess. 11/16 is a tad too small, 3/4 too big! Why not 3/4 or 5/8, why?

Sorry venting again, smashed my thumb last night working on the front calipers. Why can't it be 5/8?
 

malcoll

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Anyone have an answer to this question? I am swapping out the front calipers.... and I don't seem to have the right size socket?

Please help?
 

malcoll

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Luc,
Thankyou for your help. Unfortunately.. I cannot identify which metric is supposed to fit. The 17mm is too small, the 18mm is just a tad too big??

Ugh..... The rears are EASY... the fronts are ******' me off.


Again thank you for your help.

Lance
 

luc

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lance:

Im metric,size go by full mm, you have nothing between 17 and 18mm, may be you can put some aluminum foil around the bolt head to take some of the clearance and use the 18mm wrench/socket.
They are supposed to be torqued to 85lbs/Foot (almost like a wheel lugnut)so they could be pretty hard to remove.

Luc.00GTS

PS:I also have a 69 MachI ("R" code, 428 with the Shaker)
 

Tom F&L GoR

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Lance! Call me - I have all these parts and bolts in the garage and can look at this stuff quick and easy.

The front calipers are held on by bolts needing an 18mm socket. If your socket is loose, try a 6 point instead of 12 point socket. If you round them off and need replacements, I'll send you some.

It's late - hope you were successful.
 

malcoll

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Tom.... you are a life saver! I'm gonna go pick up a 6 point..... mine is a 12 point.


I'll have the wheels back on by early afternoon and post some pictures!
 

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