How in the He!!?

[TowDawg]

How in the He!!? (UPDATED) Need some help!!!

Got back from Atlanta earlier and I was hearing and awful brake grinding sound when I slowed down. In gear, out of gear, on the brakes, not touching them, it didn't matter.

Looked quickly at the rotors and didn't see anything strange, so I put it up on jack stands and pulled all the wheels off. The inside of the driver's rear rotor was pretty scored in one ring. I pulled the brakes off and there was rock jammed in between the pad and the rotor. How in the heck does that happen?

Anyway, it was an easy fix, so no big deal.

While I'm ********, why in the hell didn't anybody tell me there is a cotter pin you have to take out to remove the parking brake pads? lol I was getting a little irritated trying to get the retaining pin out and then finally realized there was cotter pin I had to take out first.

 

[dave6666]

A rack? Of what?

 

[TowDawg]

A rack? Of what?

Lamb!

Fixed now, smartass!

 

[TowDawg]

OK, so I found the rock and got it out. I checked all of the brakes while I had the car up and the others were fine. I even put the car in gear (not smart I know) while it was up on the jack stands and let the wheels turn while I walked around and listened. Nothing.

I took the car for a spin today and when I was pulling back into the garage it was making the noise again. This is killing me and I can't figure out what it is. It seems as if it is only making the noise when the weight of the car is on it. Any thoughts?

It definitely has to do with the movement of the car and is a scrape, scrape, scrape sound, not a constant noise.

 

[dave6666]

Hub.











.

 

[TowDawg]

Bearing, etc? Not sure what "hub" means?

Is it something that can be greased and quiet it down or something that has to be replaced?

 

[dave6666]

The hub is where the bearings are that the wheel rotates about. Non serviceable although you can torque the stub axle on the rears. I would try that first.

 

[TowDawg]

Pardon my ignorance, but which bolt is it I would need to torque? Is visible by just removing the wheel? What is the torque spec on it?

 

[dave6666]

Pull the wheel. Big fat nut with a cotter pin. 250 ft lb. Or is it 190...

You must be registered for see images

 

[TowDawg]

Thanks Dave!

Can you help me with my next issue? I don't have tq wrench that goes that high or a socket to fit the bolt. Looks like a 1.25?

Time to run to the store.

 

[eucharistos]

1/2" Torque Wrench

1/4" Drive Click Stop Torque Wrench

3/4" Torque Wrench

 

[dave6666]

1/2" Torque Wrench

1/4" Drive Click Stop Torque Wrench

3/4" Torque Wrench

Neg rep. Never buy Harbor Freight hand tools.

Don't remember the socket size. 1-1/4 rings a bell but I'b ebjoying abult deverbages.

Really though, look in the DIY section. I did a write up years ago. Can't remember if I listed the socket size. Worth a look if the post is still there.

 

[TowDawg]

It's a 1 1/4. I found a socket, but still don't have a tq wrench that big. I tightened the **** out of it and moved (fractionally), but the noise is still there. Hopefully I'll hear from 1TONY1 soon and I can make it to his house this week. I don't mind having to fix things, but I want to make sure I'm fixing the right thing first! lol

 

[dave6666]

I ended up finding the culprit front hub on my GTS - exact same symptoms as yours - by checking the runnout with a dial indicator. Spec is 0.003, mine was 0.010. The new one was 0.002 at the OD of the hub.

A front hub, for your viewing pleasure.

You must be registered for see images

 

[TowDawg]

I have no idea what runnout is. lol

How involved is it to change the hub? Do you know ballpark what price I'm looking at for a new one? Is the technical name "hub" if I look around to find pricing?

I found your DIY thread, but all of the pics are gone.

Thanks again for your help!


I tried to send you PM, but yours is full.

 

[Phun70]

Ummm, might be best if you have a tech do this job. That's one of those holds the wheel on the car kinds of things. Without the correct tools, you could end up with a dangerous situation. My 2c.

 

[dave6666]

The hub is an easy DIY with the correct tools and a service manual.

 

[eucharistos]

Neg rep. Never buy Harbor Freight hand tools.........

awe man

i can handle the dis on hand tools, but neg rep too

(dave, did you see me trolling "over there" )

anyhoo, i started buying some h/f tools if i reasonably expect to use them only a couple of times and they are considered disposable. had too many of my "life time guarantee" tools walk away of late.

 

[TowDawg]

OK, the new hub bearing assy should be here Thursday.

How long do these usually last? My car is 2003 with 30k miles on it. I know we all talk about these cars being pretty bulletproof, but I wouldn't expect a hub bearing to be gone that quickly. I've had other high performance cars with a lot more miles and never had any issues.

Vipers have a lot of power and I do drive mine a little hard, bot nothing approaching beating on it. Maybe it's just had a rough past life. I had to have the engine rebuilt not too long after buying it too. Glad that was still under warranty!

 

[ulllose]

sure it wasnt the inside pad of the ebrake? seems like the 03's have a issue with the drivers side ebrake dragging. Just a thought

 

[Rizzo]

Before you do anything else check the e brake pads. I had the exact same thing happen. The inside drivers side pad was worn right out and made a horrible grinding noise. Easy fix if thats all it is.

 

[TowDawg]

The first thing I did was pull all of the wheels and check the brakes. I even took the rear brake (including parking brake) pads out and re-installed them.

 

[Kevan]

Neg rep. Never buy Harbor Freight hand tools.

Don't remember the socket size. 1-1/4 rings a bell but I'b ebjoying abult deverbages.

Really though, look in the DIY section. I did a write up years ago. Can't remember if I listed the socket size. Worth a look if the post is still there.

My HF (and Husky) torque wrenches tested as close or closer to indicated dial than my Craftsman.
The local JEG'S shops have digital testers that customers can use at no charge. I check my torque wrenches each year. Regular maintenance includes dialing them to zero (or their lowest setting) after each use. This saves the spring and cam inside.

Don't get me wrong: I reach for the Craftsman first.
But for things like the 250 ft.lbs. required for mounting things like brake calipers to spindles on the truck, I'm okay with the HF/Husky.

FrgMstr found this nice digital one (1/2" drive; 15 ft.lbs.-150 ft.lbs):
Amazon.com: Brown Line Metal Works BLD0212 Digital Torque Wrench: Automotive
It may be added to the "big silver box" soon.

 

[uvbnbit]

I have no idea what runnout is. lol

QUOTE]

Basically, the up/down (radial runout)or side-to-side (lateral) measurement of movement.

 

[TowDawg]

My HF (and Husky) torque wrenches tested as close or closer to indicated dial than my Craftsman.
The local JEG'S shops have digital testers that customers can use at no charge. I check my torque wrenches each year. Regular maintenance includes dialing them to zero (or their lowest setting) after each use. This saves the spring and cam inside.

Don't get me wrong: I reach for the Craftsman first.
But for things like the 250 ft.lbs. required for mounting things like brake calipers to spindles on the truck, I'm okay with the HF/Husky.

FrgMstr found this nice digital one (1/2" drive; 15 ft.lbs.-150 ft.lbs):
Amazon.com: Brown Line Metal Works BLD0212 Digital Torque Wrench: Automotive
It may be added to the "big silver box" soon.

Off topic a bit, but I bought 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 tq wrenches from HF a few months ago. The 1/4 and 3/8 have worked fine, but I had only used the 1/2" once before the other night. While I was torquing the lugnuts on, the wrench completely let go. I re-set it and anything else I could think of, but as soon as I put it on the lugnut and applied pressure, it would just click and turn freely. Total POS, but what do you expect for $20? I'm going to try to swap it at the store, but the warranty paperwork says you have to ship it to them and pay shipping back for the new one. At that point, I'm over the $20 it cost me in the first place. Oh well, live and learn!

 

[V10SpeedLuvr]

Off topic a bit, but I bought 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 tq wrenches from HF a few months ago. The 1/4 and 3/8 have worked fine, but I had only used the 1/2" once before the other night. While I was torquing the lugnuts on, the wrench completely let go. I re-set it and anything else I could think of, but as soon as I put it on the lugnut and applied pressure, it would just click and turn freely. Total POS, but what do you expect for $20? I'm going to try to swap it at the store, but the warranty paperwork says you have to ship it to them and pay shipping back for the new one. At that point, I'm over the $20 it cost me in the first place. Oh well, live and learn!

If you can find a HF sales sheet (at home or in the store), I think they always have a 20% off 1 item coupon in there.

Wait a minute, if you just swap it for a new one, the coupon will do you no good. I'm a stoopid dumbie

 

[AZTVR]

Regular maintenance includes dialing them to zero (or their lowest setting) after each use. This saves the spring and cam inside.

Funny, I just had a conversation about this very thing yesterday with a local guy. It was the first I had heard that. I know that I should get my wrenches checked, especially since I've had them 20 years. Now, I need to find out where to do that around here and get them done.

 

[97snk]

Neg rep. Never buy Harbor Freight hand tools.

Don't remember the socket size. 1-1/4 rings a bell but I'b ebjoying abult deverbages.

Really though, look in the DIY section. I did a write up years ago. Can't remember if I listed the socket size. Worth a look if the post is still there.

I remember a magazine doing or something of that nature doing tests on all sorts of torque wrenches a while back, harbor freight torque wrenches were more accurate in many cases than the best out there, they however don't last very long...

 

[dave6666]

Off topic a bit, but I bought 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 tq wrenches from HF a few months ago. The 1/4 and 3/8 have worked fine, but I had only used the 1/2" once before the other night. While I was torquing the lugnuts on, the wrench completely let go. I re-set it and anything else I could think of, but as soon as I put it on the lugnut and applied pressure, it would just click and turn freely. Total POS, but what do you expect for $20? I'm going to try to swap it at the store, but the warranty paperwork says you have to ship it to them and pay shipping back for the new one. At that point, I'm over the $20 it cost me in the first place. Oh well, live and learn!

This.

I remember a magazine doing or something of that nature doing tests on all sorts of torque wrenches a while back, harbor freight torque wrenches were more accurate in many cases than the best out there, they however don't last very long...

And this.

Accuracy mean squat when the wrench goes to zero resistance due to a POS ratchet mechanism. Did you damage a part or the car itself when that happened? Strain or break your wrist or arm when that happened?

Cheap POS tools save nothing. Nothing.

 

[TowDawg]

Didn't damage anything or get hurt, but I was DAMN lucky not hit the car fender when it let go!