Need help with front speakers in RT/10

[npeifer]

OK guys I am replacing the front speakers with 6.5 inch Rockford Fosgate coax's and want to put the coax in the hole for the 5.25 is and keep the factory tweet in its hole. On the back of the factory mid range speaker there are 4 wires and I need to know which ones are hot / ground ?

2 of them have a small capacitor on that side and the other 2 do not. Let me know if anybody knows exactly or if you have a factory service manual that tells us ?

Thanks very much for the help. BTW my car is a 96 RT/10.

 

[viperrt96]

The capacitor side is the positive for both the incoming (light green) and outgoing (light blue) to the tweeter in the door. The dark green and dark blue are soldered at the same place on your original speakers. Those two are the negative.

To summarize:

Light green (+) incoming
Dark green (-) incoming

Light blue (+) to your door tweeter
Dark blue (-) to your door tweeter

If you don't have a crossover you will need to reuse that factory capacitor and wire it like it is already.

I did mine with Infinity Kappa's and I used the built in tweeter (not the door tweeters)and they come with their own crossovers.

Much better!

 

[viperrt96]

Here are pics of mine. Here's the door

Here's the center console

 

[ViperJames]

Thats SO much nicer than stock....hmmmmmm i think i might need to upgrade!!

 

[viperrt96]

The sound is so much better now.

I would also recommend using Dynomat in the door panels (only covered openings-not entire door)and the whole transmission tunnel(under center console & rear speaker box). The sound is so much better and the car is so much quieter than before (stereo off). Hardly any rattles. I also like how these speakers match all of my MGW accessories.

They also don't look too Bling Bling! In my opinion.

 

[ViperJames]

The sound is so much better now.

I would also recommend using Dynomat in the door panels (only covered openings-not entire door)and the whole transmission tunnel(under center console & rear speaker box). The sound is so much better and the car is so much quieter than before (stereo off). Hardly any rattles. I also like how these speakers match all of my MGW accessories.

They also don't look too Bling Bling! In my opinion.

Thats really cool...I have all the MGW stuff too...thanks.

 

[npeifer]

Thanks for the info and I did the doors last night just as you said it just took some thinking.

I also finished building the panel for the 10" sub enclosure in which I am using a Rockford HX2 DVC sub ! I realize I have no real enclosure but what I did was made a panel to fit perfectly in the passenger footwell and placed the sub on it using the floorboard as the only backend of the enclosure. I was previously (years ago) a Rockford installer and realize this isn't the perfect way to do it but with such a great sub it will sound good as long as I can give it enough power. That being said I am using a Rockford mosfet POWER 650 from the early 90's for the sub and a POWER 300 for the mids and highs.

The other benefit is that the panel fits very very tight and stays in place well with nothing holding it down ! It is simply wedged in its spot under the dash. Why would I do this you ask ? Well because the sub can now be taken out easily when we go on a long trip if she or I want the extra legroom.

Some people will call me crazy but it works. Also last night I installed Rockford 6.5 inch coaxial speakers in the doors where the factory 5.25's were. I took a little cutting but it looks factory as I am not using the aftermarket grills and the door looks stock. Also I kept the factory tweeter working for extra highs.

I will take pics this weekend and post them up.

 

[obaa996]

viperrt96:
Could you provide more details on your dynamat job? Specifically where you applied it, and which type? Did you re-apply the factory jute (?) insulation over it (I'm guessing that you didn't put the dynamat over the stock insulation).
I'm trying to tame some exhaust drone that's *REALLY* bad between 1.5-2.5k rpm.
Thanks!

 

[viperrt96]

I'll try to find the pics of the install. The tunnel I only did the top portion from the shifter area all the way back and behind the rear speaker box. I did not put any behind the insulation (carpeted sides and rear) I'm second owner of my car and I've had it 6 years. It was a low mileage one owner car. When I pulled my door panels off I was told there would be a insulator (clear plastic or?) between the door panel and the door. Mine didn't have anything on either side? Insulating the doors made the biggest improvement.

 

[obaa996]

Thanks; I'd appreciate it!
The insulator for the door is just a clear plastic sheet; it's actually a vapor barrier to keep any moisture dripping down the window slot (in cars with windows) from rotting out the door panel (which is usually heavy paperboard). So you put dynamat there instead of on the backside of the outer door skin? That surface is pretty irregular, with a lot of holes; the dynamat was flexible enough conform to those contours?
I'm not sure what's resonating in the cabin which is causing my drone. I've heard that it's not necessary to completely cover everything (just add enough mass to dampen the resonance), I don't know what's causing it, so I'm tempted to do the full treatment. Hopefully, the stuff won't melt/turn to goo due to the heat.