New garage floor--pock marks-normal?

Ray W

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You can practice law and pratice medicine. In concrete pouring you have to know what you are doing. Looks like your guy is still learning.
 

plumcrazy

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ALL OVER
viperjon, take notes...lol

the contractor knew what the weather was going to be. there is not a real concrete placer/finisher that doesnt watch the weather. there are plenty of ways to finish and cure concrete in cold weather.

good info can be found here:http://www.ccagc.org/pdfs/ACI_306R-88_Cold_Weather_Concreting.pdf

Protection during fall and spring
During periods not defined as cold weather, such as
in fall or spring, but when heavy frost or freezing is
forecast at the job site,* all concrete surfaces should be
protected from freezing for at least the first 24 hr after
placement. Concrete protected in this manner will be
safe from damage by freezing at an early age. If the
concrete is air entrained and properly cured, the ultimate
strength and durability of the concrete will be unimpaired.
Protection from freezing during the first 24
hr does not assure a satisfactory rate of strength development,
particularly when followed by considerably
colder weather. Protection and curing should continue
long enough - and at a temperature sufficiently above
freezing - to produce the strength required for form
removal or structural safety (
 

bluesrt

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tell that guy to stick the patch job up his ass! i hope you still owe him money.
 

Bandit3

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Doesn't anyone care about the work/repairs they do anymore? Had some people repair my sprinkler system recently--they broke two underground pipes-900.00 water bill and 820.00 to repair. Now I need to find him (his cell is all I have) and sue with some hope of recouping a little money.
 

Glen97

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There many variables that cause this
1 weather, temperature wind and humidity
2 water to cement ratio
3 placement techniques

If the contractor added more water to the truck once it has arrived on site the plant is no longer responsible for the specified compressive strength of the mix. This burden would now fall on the contractor as far as responsibility. Ask the plant for the batch ticket. It will show the ordered design mix, and would also show if any water was added on site. They will HAVE to document any additional water if it was added post plant batching. Also look at the time stamp on the batch ticket and see how long it was in the truck prior to placement.
Most of that damage is from spraying water on the concrete surface during the finishing process. The concrete might of started to set to quickly so the finishers did this to aid in the troweling process. The problem is it dilutes the Portland cement paste and it cannot hold the finer sand aggregates together.
The surface will actually rub off on your shoes. Best fix is to get a coring company to get a core and do a compressive test. Look for 3000 psi minimum. If it passes then you can proceed to finish it. You will most likely to do an overlaymeny system to stop this. This will entail an acid wash to remove loose debris then power wash it and neutralize it. Have a qualified concrete overlayment applicator perform a 1/4" - 1/2" cementitious overpayment then stain nit or stamp it for a decorative finish.
A source for information is the American concrete institute or aka. ACI. For specs.
Another for overlayment systems is L.M. scofield company or Increte systems.
Need more info PM me and I can point you in the right direction.

It looks like water was added as stated above and to much cream in that area.
 

PDCjonny

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AFL in NJ

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Dear Viperdrummer,

I used to test concrete back in my Civil Engineering days, and from the pictures it appears they may have had the concrete stiffen a little and may have added a little water to ensure they could trowel it smooth. It appears that the water "puddled" and spalled from the slab, which doesn't mean your slab is structurally deficient, but just surface ugly.

In cases like that, we'd sandblast the remaining loose concrete, moisten the concrete and parge the area smooth. If your spalling is on an area where you'll run tires, or toolboxes or anything high traffic, the parging might come loose again and again...the key is to ensure the concrete is really wet before you remove the excess water and parge the area smooth.

That being said, if the area isn't a high traffic area and the parging smooths out those dips sufficiently, you could still put a concrete paint or flooring material over top. It depends on what your plans are completely on what to do after parging. If you're just leaving the slab as is, then you'll always see the parging. If you cover it with some sort of flooing paint/system, it won't likely show at all.

As concrete begins to harden, it's temperature rises as the bonding of the cement takes place, how cold did it get?

Regards,
Aaron
 

V10 PWRD

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Bottom line it looks like the surface froze over night after they sprayed too much water on the surface so they could get a smooth finish. Same thing happens when mud gets away in the summer and they try to keep the surface wet so they can finish it. Eventually the topping flakes off.
The weather was not the contractor's friend on this job. I finished concrete for years. Surface froze. Depending on square footage of the floor the contractor will have to eat a grand or more in replacing just the materials. :dig:
 

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