new to me 2000 GTS overheating within minutes.

[GTS Dean]

Squeeze hard o n the upper radiator hose with a glove or shop rag for insulation. That's some NASTY looking whatever in your system.

edit: and that brake fluid! God man, flush that garbage out too - TWICE!

 

[JDMB20TDA]

Squeeze hard o n the upper radiator hose with a glove or shop rag for insulation. That's some NASTY looking whatever in your system.

edit: and that brake fluid! God man, flush that garbage out too - TWICE!

ill get on that brake fluid flush once the car is mobile.
as for the coolant, its that evans waterless stuff. it goes in looking like fresh motor oil, after a while this you get this old tar pit looking juice.

going to try and burp the system again later on, hoping all that bubbling is progress.
the heater not blowing hot could be a symptom of a large air pocket as well.
I'm just trying to rule out everything before throwing $$$ at a water pump.

 

[TEALLIFE]

Skip the waterless coolant and hose nonsense for now.

You need to figure out "what is hot, and what is not". None of your temp readings indicated anything near 200+ degrees.

There are multiple sensors inside the coolant temp sensor in the head. The chance that you lost 2-3 of them at the same time, is *highly* unlikely.

Most likely, your waterpump impeller is shot, and you have no coolant flow, so the head is overheating. If the block is very hot too, then possible stuck closed thermostat. Open the heater core valve and turn the heat on. If that gets hot as hell when the gauge is climbing, then you have a stuck closed t-stat. If it doesnt, then bad water pump.

This should be relatively simple stuff to troubleshoot. Dont over complicate it or piss away money on things that definitely have nothing to do with it.

Please listen to him. On all of this

No one has issues running typical coolant for 30+ years and 100k miles. The "corrosion" issue is not an issue. You're going to be removing hoses and what not anyway, just go with the standard.

 

[daveg]

ill get on that brake fluid flush once the car is mobile.
as for the coolant, its that evans waterless stuff. it goes in looking like fresh motor oil, after a while this you get this old tar pit looking juice.

going to try and burp the system again later on, hoping all that bubbling is progress.
the heater not blowing hot could be a symptom of a large air pocket as well.
I'm just trying to rule out everything before throwing $$$ at a water pump.

Did you shoot what the temp is at the base of the T Stat Housing? That should tell you if the T Stat SHOULD BE open or not!.

 

[Viper Specialty]

Anyone else ever noticed that more often than not, whenever someone tries to reinvent the wheel for no good reason, they end up with a bunch of problems instead?

Get that Evans shit out of there. Vipers have a hard enough time cooling as it is. Newer coolants have literally solved all of those old problems... long ago.

Again, this is simple shit. TURN THE HEATER CORE VALVE ON AND RUN THE ENGINE. LIGHTLY REV A COUPLE TIMES. IF IT DOESN'T GET HOT QUICKLY AND RELIABLY, YOU HAVE A BAD WATER PUMP. No "air bubble" that spontaneously appeared is going to result in zero friggen flow through the heater core. You are grasping at straws. Stop wasting time trying to come up with reasons that what is seemingly right in front of your face isnt there.

The only extremely unlikely and oddball scenario would be if you have a stuck closed stat, and had a massive boil-out from that, and a resulting vapor-lock around the stat. While not having any coolant on the floor? Cant see that being possible.

/end bearer of bad news.

 

[beart9h1v8]

Had the over heating problem on my 2001 RT/10.
The thermostat ended up to be the problem.

 

[steve e]

if your heater hoses aren't ass kicking hot than your water pump is not working, most likely was replaced with a piece of junk and the impeller fell off.

 

[daveg]

Ya so Basically what Dan is saying is water should go through the Heater Core regardless of what T-Stat is doing. If you have no Heat that equates to Water Pump not Pumping.

I believe you showed Temp of heater hoses being cold and that indicates pump no Workie.

 

[kblake905]

^^^^^^^^^^^

I agree with most here; it is probably the temp sensore when it overheats that quick.
To test if the water is flowing, the easiest thing to do is turn the heater on and see if it is blowing hot air!

 

[JDMB20TDA]

Please listen to him. On all of this

No one has issues running typical coolant for 30+ years and 100k miles. The "corrosion" issue is not an issue. You're going to be removing hoses and what not anyway, just go with the standard.

You guys are right.
I'm going to ditch the current coolant go with conventional.(ZEREX G05?)
Going to get the hood off so I'm not bent over messing with the water pump/ radiator and what not.
Thanks again, I'll report back with my findings.

Edit; this will certainly make working on it easier

 

[daveg]

Your going to run the Heater test first as Dan suggested before tearing everything apart, correct?

 

[JDMB20TDA]

Buncha shit clogging the front of the radiator as well, going to start by flushing this thing out

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[JDMB20TDA]

Your going to run the Heater test first as Dan suggested before tearing everything apart, correct?

I ran the check a few times the other day. It was hardly warming up.
Figure running water through the system a few times and completely flushing out the radiator of all the Evans can only help

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[GTS Dean]

Buncha shit clogging the front of the radiator as well, going to start by flushing this thing out

You must be registered for see images attach

That's not dirty. This was mine after about 8-10 years of road and track use. I held the radiator flat about 1-2" off the floor and just dropped it repeatedly about 20 times to jar the sand, rubber and bug carcasses loose. Afterward, I used compressed air, then medium intensity water spray. The condenser is more fragile and you have to be really careful with it.

 

[JDMB20TDA]

That's not dirty. This was mine after about 8-10 years of road and track use. I held the radiator flat about 1-2" off the floor and just dropped it repeatedly about 20 times to jar the sand, rubber and bug carcasses loose. Afterward, I used compressed air, then medium intensity water spray. The condenser is more fragile and you have to be really careful with it.

Good to know, it was mainly leaves, sand, and what looks like some random paper towels. When I have time tonight im going to just run some straight water through the radiator. Get it all cleaned up and hopefully get that water pump checked out. You didn't remove the condenser did you?

 

[TEALLIFE]

Good to know, it was mainly leaves, sand, and what looks like some random paper towels. When I have time tonight im going to just run some straight water through the radiator. Get it all cleaned up and hopefully get that water pump checked out. You didn't remove the condenser did you?

There's no need.

Its a good time to do your belts and pulleys though if you havent yet.

 

[TEALLIFE]

and also your steering rack bushings...can upgrade to billet.

 

[GTS Dean]

If you look more closely, you'll see that I did in fact clean both the radiator and condenser.

 

[JDMB20TDA]

You must be registered for see images attach

welp. It's certainly the pump. And looks to be an aftermarket unit. Non nurled but double backed nuts holding the impeller on. Nice.
So what's the best place to start?

 

[GTS Dean]

Any of the usual suspects.

 

[daveg]

Even Evans coolant wont fix that.

 

[efnfast]

JB weld it back together? (sic)

Actually, what do we do for water pumps? The last time I looked there was no stock of them and the only option was to send it to a Viper specialist like Havik or ViperStore to have it rebuilt.

 

[99RT10GTS]

I have Billet rebuilds. G1/2/3. Message sent

 

[white out]

Get a billet pump impeller/rebuild.

While you're in there:
power steering pulley & mount
check idler pulley resistance/free spin
billet steering rack bushings
mishimoto hoses
belt

Not an awful time to go with silicone heater hoses since there is no fluid in the system. If you're debating a lower temp thermostat, again easier because no fluid, but not necessary.

 

[JDMB20TDA]

Get a billet pump impeller/rebuild.

While you're in there:
power steering pulley & mount
check idler pulley resistance/free spin
billet steering rack bushings
mishimoto hoses
belt

Not an awful time to go with silicone heater hoses since there is no fluid in the system. If you're debating a lower temp thermostat, again easier because no fluid, but not necessary.

The belts in good shape
Power steering pulley was done.
The mount I'm unsure of, I'll have to take a closer look later on.
Got the hoses, the lower was in bad shape.
Idler pulley seems alright.
And I may wait on the rack bushings until I can get it on the lift at my old place.
this would be the 3rd t stat in 5000 miles so it better still be ok, I do like the idea of having a working bleeder on the housing and no idea what temp t.stats in there...

 

[TEALLIFE]

The belts in good shape
Power steering pulley was done.
The mount I'm unsure of, I'll have to take a closer look later on.
Got the hoses, the lower was in bad shape.
Idler pulley seems alright.
And I may wait on the rack bushings until I can get it on the lift at my old place.
this would be the 3rd t stat in 5000 miles so it better still be ok, I do like the idea of having a working bleeder on the housing and no idea what temp t.stats in there...

you dont need a lift for the rack bushings. you can do it with jackstands pretty easy.

Idler, pulleys and belts are so cheap I'd replace them unless you know for sure they are relatively new. But that's just me.

 

[GTS Dean]

If you do the rack bushings, BE SURE to keep track of the bump steer shims on each side. Don't get them mixed up.

 

[ELW98]

BTW. Ditch the "crimp clamps" at your heater valve. One of your hoses is about to slide off. very common. Constant pressure spring clamps work great!

 

[luc]

BTW. Ditch the "crimp clamps" at your heater valve. One of your hoses is about to slide off. very common. Constant pressure spring clamps work great!

???? Do you know that what you call “crimp clamps” are in fact Oetiker clamps and that they are in fact constant pressure clamps ?
But yes, hose look ready to go