So i want a little more lumpier idle...

[happy]

i have a 02 gts, and motor is stock, i was thinking on doing a cam and maby a little head work, i want a real nice lumpy idle like a big block should have.. lol i found this video on yout tube, i know he has a lot of motor work done, but just look to make a few ponies and add a really nice deep lumpy idle too. what would you guys suggest to go with? Dont want a spend a pile of cash!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-LrfepUuRo

 

[speedracervr4]

What do you consider to be a pile of cash?
I would do high flow or no cats first, then catback, and then 1.7 roller rockers.

It will probably cost approx $5-6k without tuning to do heads/cam swap.

 

[happy]

oh i forgot to add mods lol.. have kn filters smooth tubes msd wires cat deletes, borla exhaust, sct tuner

 

[opnwide]

Pulling the intake and valve covers are pretty easy. Once you get the harmonic balancer off, the TC cover comes off with a bit of work. Expect to spend $200 on gaskets unless you pull the heads, then $500.
I'll be putting a hot cam in my '97 soon, so my 708 cam will be avail for $100 on this site. You can also get a crower stage 2 cam for about $500, or a nicer Comp Cams (Greg Good special!) for $600. The hotter the cam, the more head work you should do to take advantage of it. Recommend 1.7 rockers for the 708 cam or Crower Cam, but you'll need better springs (and ideally GG heads) for the GG cam if you want to run 1.7 rockers.

 

[happy]

So maby i should give greg good a call, i was wanting to do soem head work and better lumpier cam and roller rockers

 

[speedracervr4]

Pulling the intake and valve covers are pretty easy. Once you get the harmonic balancer off, the TC cover comes off with a bit of work. Expect to spend $200 on gaskets unless you pull the heads, then $500.
I'll be putting a hot cam in my '97 soon, so my 708 cam will be avail for $100 on this site. You can also get a crower stage 2 cam for about $500, or a nicer Comp Cams (Greg Good special!) for $600. The hotter the cam, the more head work you should do to take advantage of it. Recommend 1.7 rockers for the 708 cam or Crower Cam, but you'll need better springs (and ideally GG heads) for the GG cam if you want to run 1.7 rockers.

How do you plan on replacing the lifters?

 

[opnwide]

7/16 magnetic socket on long swivel extension will remove retainer bolt. A magnet will fish out retainer. There is plenty of room around cylinder head intake port. Then use a long long needle nose pliers to remove each lifter. Aligning the lifters to reinstall the retainer is the trickiest part. Use same magnet as removal.
You can remove heads if you want to. I don't always find it necessary.

There is also a flexible lifter tool avail (craftsman, snap-on, etc) that uses three little fingers to grab a lifter underneath the lifter 's wire retainer.

 

[speedracervr4]

That's what I figured. Reinstalling that retainer bolt sounds like a PITA.

 

[Mad Max]

What all is involved installing the T&D 1.7 rockers? Is it a bolt on and go? Any other parts needed?

 

[ViperTony]

You want a lumpier idle? Get a lumpier cam Greg Good-style:

http://youtu.be/HL_yKI2nm8c
http://youtu.be/GY3peoKiYaQ

http://forums.viperclub.org/threads/633639-My-Creampuff-NA-Build?p=2869238&viewfull=1#post2869238

 

[opnwide]

Speed,
Its not the retainer bolt, its aligning the lifters so the retainer plops down on top of them correctly. You have to twist the lifters until they look aligned, lower the retainer down with your magnet. Doesn't fit? pull it back up and rotate lifters a little more... etc etc. You might be able to lightly screw the bolt in to hold the retainer in place, then use the special lifter tool (which would fit through retainer holes) to align lifters until the retainer "drops". I don't have that tool (guess I need to ebay it) so can't say for sure. Anyone else know if that works?

 

[plumcrazy]

what tony said !!!

 

[ViperTony]

Speed,
Its not the retainer bolt, its aligning the lifters so the retainer plops down on top of them correctly. You have to twist the lifters until they look aligned, lower the retainer down with your magnet. Doesn't fit? pull it back up and rotate lifters a little more... etc etc. You might be able to lightly screw the bolt in to hold the retainer in place, then use the special lifter tool (which would fit through retainer holes) to align lifters until the retainer "drops". I don't have that tool (guess I need to ebay it) so can't say for sure. Anyone else know if that works?

I don't see how this is possible with the OEM header gasket. I tried this once on my '01 and there was no way of getting to the retainer bolt because the stock OEM head gasket material was in the way. I was able to do this (replace lifters) using Dan's (Viper Specialty's) custom head gaskets designed for removal/installation of lifters with the heads in place. If you can do this, please post pics as I'd love to know how and which tools you're using.

 

[speedracervr4]

I was thinking the same thing. When I did my heads/cam it seemed almost impossible to do it with the OEM gaskets. Great to hear you can do it Opnwide, but I would not want to risk dropping the retaining bolt into the motor.

 

[opnwide]

Tony,
You are such a smartass, but you are a correct smartass.

The last time I did this was with gaskets that were already modified by myself when I had the heads off previously. (It is a smart and free mod for anytime you replace your head gaskets) It only takes a few cuts with tin-snips to get them ready. You never know if or when you need to get to the cam down the road. Are you listening, Gen 1 owners?

By the way, you can cut the gaskets with the heads on the engine, but its not very precise (very crowded) and you're NOT going to be able to get the multi-layer gasket material out of the way so it won't make any dif. So if your head gaskets haven't been modified, Happy, you'll have to pull the heads. Sorry.

 

[vpr4track]

So maby i should give greg good a call, i was wanting to do soem head work and better lumpier cam and roller rockers

I still have my set of Greg Good heads that flow up to 315 in some ports. Made big HP on my race engine. I have a roller cam and solid lifters that can go along w/ the heads, or they can be run w/ hydralic lifters.
My ad isn't in the classifieds anymore for some reason, but they were originally on sale for around $5,000. I will let everythnig go for $4,500 now.
Greg knows the heads and would be happy to tell you more if you need info.
My email changed recently to [email protected].

 

[vpr4track]

Oh yeah, I have the gaskets for these heads. Was told they were worth $500 but I am open to offers or will include them in the sale.

 

[bigmack339]

Lumpy idle=running on 9 cylinders

 

[happy]

haha not that kind of lumpy idle !! So i talked to the place that will be doing the work on my car today, and they just tt my buddys 99 gts works perfect nice neat job. so 2300$ for parts, cam springs retainers push rods, theromstat, and top fluids all back up. and 1275$ for labour, and prob charge me a hour or 2 on the dyno and i allready have the sct tuner. now if i want my heads done it would be 775$ more, he said with heads done cam and tuned should see 90-110hp more to the wheels. Hows this sound guys?? Im like 99% sure im goin to do it.

 

[Viper Specialty]

Hey Guys,

A couple points;

-Gen-1 cars cannot do any kind of lifter work with the heads installed due to the head design. The pushrods have holes- no access near the lifters.

-Gen-2 & 3 cars can access lifters with Cut OEM Gaskets or our head gasket design. However we do not recommend cutting the gaskets. One of the purposes of the "hole" in the gasket is that it can help prevent the pushrod from bouncing out of the lifter during potential valve float, which would drop directly into the rotating assembly. The gasket can help keep them in place, or at least away from the crank if this should happen. The gaskets also aid in preventing a "whoops" during engine assembly resulting in the "fishing for a pushrod" game.