three problems for my rt10 2000

Casper

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hello! i was very busy with my job..and two days ago i used my gen2 again!! :headbang:

but...i got three problems.. :dunno:

1 i found oil stain on the my garage floor.. Maybe 4 or 5 drops..

2 i saw that to open front hood, it touch the front wheel and it got a little damage.. (see a pic)

3 i found driver door open...and i thinked that i didn't close it..but when i closed again, after some second, she self open!! I close and she open!! To close, i must close the door and lock immediately!


what do you think about??
 

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Darth Menace

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Oh my goodness. I'd have a stroke if I saw that damage to my hood.

Where abouts were the oil drops located (I know on the floor, but under what part of your car?)
 
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Casper

Casper

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Oh my goodness. I'd have a stroke if I saw that damage to my hood.

Where abouts were the oil drops located (I know on the floor, but under what part of your car?)

is not a great damage, is not very visible in those side but i'm angry..I think..on viper with 19 inch wheel will be impossible to open hood!

Oil is front. Under engine. Is not black oil but clear.. I think that dealer changed oil before give me car.
 

denniskgb

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i have 19" front wheels and 20 rear. No problem opening the hood. In the previous pics i have seen of your car you seem to have stock 18" wheels.
 

Darth Menace

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I too am confused about the wheel size vs opening the hood. Unless you have monster truck wheels then the hood should open fine.
 

Camfab

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Even with stock 18" wheels, if you have oversize tires and you open the hood while the wheels aren't dead straight, you'll damage the hood.
Oil from the nose area could indicate leakage from the cooler or the oil lines. It's also possible the pan gasket is leaking or a seal is bad. I have heard of oil pan porosity issues, but you'd have to verify.
The door issue is baffling to me and dangerous. Was this car in an accident?
 
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Casper

Casper

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Even with stock 18" wheels, if you have oversize tires and you open the hood while the wheels aren't dead straight, you'll damage the hood.
Oil from the nose area could indicate leakage from the cooler or the oil lines. It's also possible the pan gasket is leaking or a seal is bad. I have heard of oil pan porosity issues, but you'd have to verify.
The door issue is baffling to me and dangerous. Was this car in an accident?

Here a pic when i prepare to up my hood with linear wheels. I have oem 18" with spacers.


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Door is like if a ghost pushes open button..after 4 or 5 second that i perfect closed door...do you mean?
When car is moving, don't happend.. Before to yesterday this didn't happend.. I thinked that was soft top's gasket that push too much on the window (i re-mounted soft top yesterday) and i removed it again but it isn't..
Car wasn't incident (i hope..)
 

denniskgb

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You do not need spacers with stock wheels and stock brakes. Take them off at least on the front.
 
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Casper

Casper

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You do not need spacers with stock wheels and stock brakes. Take them off at least on the front.

do you say that spacers are guilty? Last owner mounted them, i didn't touch. With them, car appears very exotic..but if this is not bad for car, i'll remove them.
 

GTSHolgi

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Maybe someone moved the car with the hood being in half open position? This may lead to such kind of damage....

Maybe the hood needs to be adjusted (moved back towards the windshield just a bit) to avoid touching the tires..., however, make sure that you won't damage the door by doing so. In general, you might open a can of worms doing that...
 

Indy

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Maybe the car was moved while the hood was not closed properly? Since it was worked on recently, maybe they pushed it around the shop with the hood half open? Otherwise there should not be any contact...maybe you can walk us through the way you are closing the hood. You should first close it on the windshield side, make sure it seats itself into the sliding rails, then do the front side. I usually push down slowly up front until it is properly seated in the sliding rails, then give both sides on the windshield side another push-down just to make sure it is aligned right, then push the front closed. I also try to have another person help me open the hood on the opposite side, so it doesn't twist when pushing it up.

Regarding the fluid, check the oil drain plug for drops...is it oily when you tough it. Otherwise could be coolant if watery.

Door could be related to a wire shorting out...the wires constantly get bent in the door when opening and closing, so you might need to rewire the door mechanism wires in that area. They are in that big rubber tube in the corner of the door...or maybe the mechanism itelf behind the door button is stuck and is always giving a signal to open?
 

ViperJohn

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Regarding the door, my first inclination was the outside door open switch. It had forgotten abouth the door wiring issue that crops up on some of the cars. I would still look at exterior door switch first, as it's the easiest to deal with. Simply remove the interior door card and access panel for door switch. Pull the wires off the switch. Get an voltmeter on the switch to test it. I haven't dealt with door wiring for a while, but if memory serves me, the switch circuit is normally open and depressing the button closed the circuit. Do a continuity test on the switch, if you get continuity without button being depressed, you probably have a bad switch. If you get continuity off the bat, I would then depress the button to see if continuity is broken. If that's the case, the circuit is normally closed. If exterior door swtich is determined to be good, I would then check the interior door handle switch. (Run same tests as it works in same manner).

If both switches are good, I would then move onto door wiring harness, although the more I have though about it, the door wiring harness failures I remember reading about lead to intermittent operation, meaning sometimes swtiches would work and other times they wouldn't. If switches are in fact normally open circuits, if the door wiring harness has a partially torn/damaged wire, it should still not open door automatically as the circuit would still be open since both internal and external door switches would be keeping the circuit open.

As far as the oil drip.....if they just changed the oil, I am willing to bet that there is some residual oil on the frame rails when they removed the oil filter that didn't get wiped up. Only way to be certain would be to get under the car and check. I would also check to make sure the oil filter is on nice and tight. Sometimes if they aren't tightened enough, they can back out a little bit causing oil to drip off filter.

As for the wheels, as these cars were hand built, there are some variances in the way the hoods operate. I have experienced some Gen 2 hoods tahat felt as if they were going to fall off the car, to hoods that are so tight and hard to open that you would swear the front end had been wrecked. Most guys that have 19 inch or larger diameter front wheels automatically turn the front wheels to get necessary hood clearance to avoid hitting wheels.
 
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AZTVR

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As to the door, see what ViperJohn said; but, also, some have had an issue where the exterior button was sticking and they used a spray of light oil to fix it. . I think that I'd try that first if it were me. See post 12:
http://forums.viperclub.org/threads/661678-Door-open-itself-!!!?

http://forums.viperclub.org/threads/642924-99-GTS-Drivers-door-handle-sometimes-works?

WD-40 is what is commonly used here in the states because it contains a very light oil and also has some cleaning agent in it.

If you hear clicks in the door when moving it back and forth, like the sound solenoid makes when you push the button; then, definitely suspect an intermittent break in a wire in that rubber boot between the door and the body near the hinges. Very common for those to break in later model Gen 2 cars and result in strange results. It could be that anyway, even without hearing it when moving the door. It could be intermittent just when the body flexes a little when driving.
 

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