Won't go in reverse + CEL?

[Synergy]

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After repairs...

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[Nader]

I just wish more people would listen to the pros on this site and ask questions prior to mods. They would eliminate a lot of headaches and save some money also. That's is one of the benefits of this forum.

Very common on Belanger exhausts. They are still our favorite by a long shot, but the downstream O2 sensor wires are pushed out towards the side sill insulation, and on some cars they will be damaged. Contrary to common sense, the more you try and shield the wires, the faster they deteriorate since the insulation retains more heat transferred up the sensor. The best method is to keep the wires on the loose side, and create as much room as possible between the shielding and the back of the sensor. On some cars we have "dented" the stainless shield in the sill to form a cup for the wires, on some cars we have had to shave down the O2 ****, and on some we have had to resort to simulators.

 

[Viper Specialty]

Nick-

Show more detail as to where those wires are running- that still looks like a problematic routing!

 

[ViperGeorge]

Gotta agree with Dan. I had my down stream O2 wires insulated with 1200 degree DEI insulation. It was completely wrapped around the sensor and the wires all the way back to the plug. Secured with metal zip ties. Wires on both sides still freakin melted. With the Mopar controller you don't actually need the down streams so now I plugged the bungs and zip tied new sensors to the frame away from heat.

 

[Synergy]

CEL came back on again! What else can be done Dan??? Something is still going on here as far as wires exposed to heat.

Nick-

Show more detail as to where those wires are running- that still looks like a problematic routing!

 

[Viper Specialty]

CEL came back on again! What else can be done Dan??? Something is still going on here as far as wires exposed to heat.

Nick-

The wires must be run OVER the footwell, not inside of it, and over the top of the black metal shield. The wires should be run up in the same areas as the A/C drier [psg] and the Master Cylinder [drv].

Take a look at Tom's car...

 

[ViperGeorge]

If you have the Mopar Controller (which I assume you do given you have headers), plug the **** and zip tie new sensors to the frame away from the heat. You don't need the downstream sensors, the Mopar controller doesn't read them. The only thing it does is activate the O2 heater wire which ends up blowing the ASD fuse once the wires melt. Use heavy duty zip ties so they won't break and allow a wire to get near the headers. Do this and then never worry about melting the darn wires again. Why spend so much time on something the car does not need? Insulating the wires seems to allow them to cook even more (once the heat gets in the insulation keeps it in). See my previous post and Dan's comments on this.

By the way, you can get rubber caps to protect the end of the O2s from the elements. I bought some chair leg caps in like 5/8 size (I think they were 5/8) that fit perfectly over the end of the O2.

 

[Viper Specialty]

Gen-3, New York State... plug in OBD2. No mopar controllers.

 

[ViperGeorge]

Gen-3, New York State... plug in OBD2. No mopar controllers.

Ahh. that *****.