Woodhouse Transmission Mount

[Black Moon]

I just purchased a Woodhouse Transmission mount and when I went to install it I found that the previous owner had already installed one. I know, stupid of me to not check but with the wheel hop and difficulty shifting (sometimes ) I assumed it was a stock mount.

Long story short Woodhouse wants to charge me a 25% restocking fee which I think is ridiculous.

So if you need one at a cheap price please PM me.
Thanks

 

[TowDawg]

Will they give you a full credit if you use it towards their motor mounts?
I can't remember which were more expensive.

 

[Black Moon]

Will they give you a full credit if you use it towards their motor mounts?
I can't remember which were more expensive.

That's a good question. I'm not sure I want their mounts after the mixed reviews I've heard.

 

[LifeIsGood]

as info...

It looks like Woodhouse has pulled the pricing from their website, but the engine mounts cost much more than the transmission mount.

 

[TowDawg]

That's a good question. I'm not sure I want their mounts after the mixed reviews I've heard.

I just put both in at the same time and definitely notice vibrations from 2k to 2.5k, but I've heard it gets much less noticeable after about 500 miles.

 

[2000_Black_RT10]

If you only have a Woodhouse transmission mount and OEM rubber engine mounts, that's really not ideal. The powertrain is mounted at 3 points on the chassis. The chassis can flex torsionally and in racking dynamic loading conditions, you won't gain much performance just with a stiffer trans mount. Advantages you will encounter is a stiffer chassis, I would predict 2% overall chassis stiffness, better shifting quality, and reduced bucking / wheel hop (due to mount compliances).

Powertrain mount design can be complex, as I worked in the chassis group at Chrysler (HQ in Auburn Hills, Michigan) in the past, my name is on the last slide of this PDF (takes a few minutes to load...) as an example.

http://support.mscsoftware.com/cgi-...e=ri/1-13/1-13B2-2703/DaimlerChrysler_Sui.pdf

There are many advantages in having Woodhouse mounts on your car if you dismiss the NVH properties, and if that's what you are seeking, a car with little noise, vibration and harshness, then the Viper is not for you, perhaps it would be best to buy a Cadillac.

At my current place of work, we design and manufacture race car chassis', from DP cars to whatever, a top race car chassis builder in the industry. An advantage you will get from stiffer mounts is a stiffer chassis overall. I do not recommend solid mounts on a Viper (solid mounts can increase overall chassis stiffness such as 6%, but that places stress on different parts). The chassis and engine block is not designed for solid mounts. Woodhouse mounts are a great compromise, bit of loss in the NVH but an increase in performance, yet safe for the engine block ears and brackets.

So for what it's worth and if there is someone else on the forum that would like to debate in a knowledgable friendly manner, I'm open to discussing this. For performance advantages, I recommend Woodhouse mounts, and I have zero association with Woodhouse other than having purchased their mounts for my car and about a year of use.

Regards,
Mike

 

[RevHeat]

I just put both in at the same time and definitely notice vibrations from 2k to 2.5k, but I've heard it gets much less noticeable after about 500 miles.

It does, after 500 it feels good.

 

[ILLSMOQ]

Just doing the transmission mount will only reduce shifter bounce up and down and will do nothing for wheel hop or missed shifts.

To reduce those issues, you need the engine mounts.

 

[dave6666]

The only negative reviews about the Woodhouse engine mounts are either by school girls or future Corvette owners. The stock mounts **** and are probably shot on your car contributing to your woes.

 

[TowDawg]

The only negative reviews about the Woodhouse engine mounts are either by school girls or future Corvette owners. The stock mounts **** and are probably shot on your car contributing to your woes.

My stock motor mounts were indeed cracked when the motor came out for the rebuild.

 

[BAD BOYZZ GARAGE]

We use and recommend the Woodhouse Trans Mount for serious drivers. Also guyz don't forget about the billet steering rack bushing upgrade.

Toddy

 

[ILLSMOQ]

The only negative reviews about the Woodhouse engine mounts are either by school girls or future Corvette owners. The stock mounts **** and are probably shot on your car contributing to your woes.

hahah pretty much this is a manly car...BE A MAN!

 

[fqberful]

I put the Woodhouse engine and trans mounts in my '06 coupe. I had a bit of additional vibration that lasted about 500 miles then it calmed down and it's back to normal. The biggest difference is the shifts are far better and the car feels stiffer.

--FQB

 

[Black Moon]

If you only have a Woodhouse transmission mount and OEM rubber engine mounts, that's really not ideal. The powertrain is mounted at 3 points on the chassis. The chassis can flex torsionally and in racking dynamic loading conditions, you won't gain much performance just with a stiffer trans mount. Advantages you will encounter is a stiffer chassis, I would predict 2% overall chassis stiffness, better shifting quality, and reduced bucking / wheel hop (due to mount compliances).

Powertrain mount design can be complex, as I worked in the chassis group at Chrysler (HQ in Auburn Hills, Michigan) in the past, my name is on the last slide of this PDF (takes a few minutes to load...) as an example.

http://support.mscsoftware.com/cgi-...e=ri/1-13/1-13B2-2703/DaimlerChrysler_Sui.pdf

There are many advantages in having Woodhouse mounts on your car if you dismiss the NVH properties, and if that's what you are seeking, a car with little noise, vibration and harshness, then the Viper is not for you, perhaps it would be best to buy a Cadillac.

At my current place of work, we design and manufacture race car chassis', from DP cars to whatever, a top race car chassis builder in the industry. An advantage you will get from stiffer mounts is a stiffer chassis overall. I do not recommend solid mounts on a Viper (solid mounts can increase overall chassis stiffness such as 6%, but that places stress on different parts). The chassis and engine block is not designed for solid mounts. Woodhouse mounts are a great compromise, bit of loss in the NVH but an increase in performance, yet safe for the engine block ears and brackets.

So for what it's worth and if there is someone else on the forum that would like to debate in a knowledgable friendly manner, I'm open to discussing this. For performance advantages, I recommend Woodhouse mounts, and I have zero association with Woodhouse other than having purchased their mounts for my car and about a year of use.

Regards,
Mike

This guy is obviously an expert so we should all listen to him. I guess I need to go trade my car in on a Vette instead of buying engine mounts.

Back to the OP if anyone wants this extra mount just let me know.
Cheers

 

[2000_Black_RT10]

This guy is obviously an expert so we should all listen to him. I guess I need to go trade my car in on a Vette instead of buying engine mounts.

Back to the OP if anyone wants this extra mount just let me know.
Cheers

I only learned from others, still can't consider myself an expert.. still learning.. My wife does like her comfy Corvette.

Again, as I mentioned, Woodhouse mounts are stiffer and a compromise for a car that wasn't designed for solid mounts. Sure, solid mounts will work out short term, but long term there will be fatigue issues, that is what concerns myself and why I prefer Woodhouse mounts being much stiffer than the OEM mounts, yet have a bit of compliance rather than solid mounts.

I'm only sharing this to pass on / share experience, seem to recall in the past you had asked in one Post what the advantage is of stiffer powertrain mounts.

Cheers,
Mike

 

[dave6666]

Also available is the billet tranny crossmember from DBB aka Parts Rack. Not sure however if that is also a G3 part as I'm a G2 guy. Definitely not a school girl G2 guy

 

[Vipuronr]

So, as I am reading it, and thank you 2000_Black_RT10, you can change to the Woodhouse trans mount to provide better shifting, less chance of missed shift under power. Wheel hop, as I see it, has little to do with what trans mount is used IMHP.

It does make sense to also change engine mounts, so effects of torque under power are distributed similarly...if that makes sense.

The billet cross member looks like a good upgrade as well.

 

[dave6666]

^^^ When you have done all mods to your car, stop modding.

Moral of story: mod until there are no more mods.

 

[2000_Black_RT10]

Also available is the billet tranny crossmember from DBB aka Parts Rack. Not sure however if that is also a G3 part as I'm a G2 guy. Definitely not a school girl G2 guy

The billet crossmember is a nice piece, saw your previous images in another Post Dave. Bling bling.

There is zero addition to chassis stiffness with that crossmember. It's fastened with one fastener on each end that is clamped to bent metal tabs welded on the frame rail. The existing extruded crossmember is more than enough for structural integrity to support the powertrain. The frame rails are tied together with the "rock guard" plate that prevents racking of the frame. Majority purpose of the transmission crossmember is to support the powertrain in the vertical direction, as well as being used for frontal impact testing in which it will deform and absorb some energy rather than instantly shearing off the frame rail brackets if it was billet. Yet, who cares about frontal impact, car will be totalled anyway.. Aftermarket companies do not need to conform to OEM FMVSS standards, there's a lot of reasons why things are designed as they are. Not to sound condescending, but the more energy that a car can absorb during a crash test, means that it's less energy that is inflicted on the occupant. I could also say that stiff mounts and crossmembers in conjunction may not pass the frontal impact test that the factory Viper had to pass, as there are many design aspects that were physically validated, and these changes can impact crash testing results, vibration in electrical hardware (Gen 4 TB issues?), etc.. Yet we're just chatting about performance.

 

[dave6666]

^^^ Stop it. Stop it again

 

[Richie7]

I love the way the car feels with the Woodhouse mounts. There is no extra movement in the shifter, making running through the gears rock-solid.

 

[2000_Black_RT10]

Dave, I like you. Sorry to be a ***** sometimes. If you lived closer, I would vouch for you to work at our shop, you would do well.

 

[Black Moon]

Thinking about it (probably a mistake) but the drivetrain is really mounted in 7 locations. We haven't discussed the differential mounts. Any thoughts? Does anyone make poly mounts?

 

[Vipuronr]

Let's see....I wonder how many mounts there REALLY are in the Viper...hmmmm, how about Woodhouse radio mounts, or...glove box hinge support mounts....or, air conditioning/heating knob control mounts....oh, I could go on and on....

Sorry, I know this was a relatively serious thread...must be the coffee!

 

[Black Moon]

Sorry, I know this was a relatively serious thread...must be the coffee![/QUOTE]

Actually I was just trying to find someone that needed a mount but I guess we can discuss whatever you guys want. Personally, I think the differential movement/ mounts would negatively affect the car as much or more than engine and transmission mounts. I'm going to do what 2000 rt10 suggested and buy me a Kervette

 

[2000_Black_RT10]

I wrote powertrain, now you're talking about the drivetrain (aft of the output shaft). There are numerous suspension points, do you want to change them all and why?

You need to be careful when changing all mount to a different stiffness. Additional stiffness means that the component will need to absorb the stress, which they may not be designed to handle. Bushing compliance is a significant factor when designing suspension components.

Unless you really know why you are changing an OEM component and the impact on the adjacent components, good luck. That's a problem I have with aftermarket companies, they'll sell you whatever, that has not endured the same testing that OEM companies had to pass. Many just say off road use only on the box, that means no liability on the street. An example is a stiff sway bar that was available for a Honda from an aftermarket company, it was so stiff that it tore the mounts off the frame due to fatigue.

The list goes on.. If you're just shopping to just add on bits that sound cool and think you can add parts that will improve the car in one aspect whist ignoring another disregarding all the past OEM tests (fatigue, crash, durability, corrosion, vehicle dynamics, etc..), good luck, the aftermarket companies will be glad to take your money.

Thinking about it (probably a mistake) but the drivetrain is really mounted in 7 locations. We haven't discussed the differential mounts. Any thoughts? Does anyone make poly mounts?

 

[David Pintaric]

I wrote powertrain, now you're talking about the drivetrain (aft of the output shaft). There are numerous suspension points, do you want to change them all and why?

You need to be careful when changing all mount to a different stiffness. Additional stiffness means that the component will need to absorb the stress, which they may not be designed to handle. Bushing compliance is a significant factor when designing suspension components.

Unless you really know why you are changing an OEM component and the impact on the adjacent components, good luck. That's a problem I have with aftermarket companies, they'll sell you whatever, that has not endured the same testing that OEM companies had to pass. Many just say off road use only on the box, that means no liability on the street. An example is a stiff sway bar that was available for a Honda from an aftermarket company, it was so stiff that it tore the mounts off the frame due to fatigue.

The list goes on.. If you're just shopping to just add on bits that sound cool and think you can add parts that will improve the car in one aspect whist ignoring another disregarding all the past OEM tests (fatigue, crash, durability, corrosion, etc..), good luck, the aftermarket companies will be glad to take your money.

For a car that NEVER sees the street, you're "ok" using the stronger "Woodhouse" motor mounts over the stock ones, but do not recommend solid ones on the Viper?

 

[2000_Black_RT10]

For a car that NEVER sees the street, you're "ok" using the stronger "Woodhouse" motor mounts over the stock ones, but do not recommend solid ones on the Viper?

I wouldn't recommend solid mounts due to frame racking on a road racing course unless the chassis was designed for solid mounts. If you're not familiar with frame racking, think of a household aluminum ladder. The left rail can move up and the right can move down if on uneven ground. The Viper is basically a body on ladder frame design.

In harsh situations such as uneven braking hard, in such that the left tires are on the pavement and the right are on gravel, the left frame rail will move rearward in relation to the right due to vehicle inertia. It's a reason why there was a recall on Gen2 Vipers needing frame gussets for stiffness (cracks at the crossmember joints due to excessive racking), and as noted on the recall for cars that endured track usage and why there is a flat shear panel "rock guard" that ties the right and left frame rail together. Think of adding triangular gussets to a ladder, that was the recall solution.. Steel ladder frames will rack regardless due to steel material properties. Since the frame racks and if the engine mounts were solid, there would be no flex or compliance at the mounts and there would be stress on the engine mount ears or the brackets. There needs to be a bit of give or flexibility to accommodate racking of the frame. It may not be that much displacement, 1/8" or so, but back and forth hundreds of times, something will crack over time (engine mount ears or brackets) if it was a solid mount long term, whereas with a flexible mount, a durometer of urethane or rubber will allow a flexible joint (less than the stiffness of aluminum or steel) to the rigid powertrain assembly.

Sorry if too much babbling.. cheers,
Mike

 

[Black Moon]

I wrote power train, now you're talking about the drive train (aft of the output shaft). There are numerous suspension points, do you want to change them all and why?

You need to be careful when changing all mount to a different stiffness. Additional stiffness means that the component will need to absorb the stress, which they may not be designed to handle. Bushing compliance is a significant factor when designing suspension components.

Unless you really know why you are changing an OEM component and the impact on the adjacent components, good luck. That's a problem I have with aftermarket companies, they'll sell you whatever, that has not endured the same testing that OEM companies had to pass. Many just say off road use only on the box, that means no liability on the street. An example is a stiff sway bar that was available for a Honda from an aftermarket company, it was so stiff that it tore the mounts off the frame due to fatigue.

The list goes on.. If you're just shopping to just add on bits that sound cool and think you can add parts that will improve the car in one aspect whist ignoring another disregarding all the past OEM tests (fatigue, crash, durability, corrosion, vehicle dynamics, etc..), good luck, the aftermarket companies will be glad to take your money.

Wow, I'm almost speechless by your posts, content and attitude so let me vent and get back to having fun.

First off, go back and read the OP (closely). Do you see anything about engine mounts, wheel hop, drive line, power train, shocks, lateral force, rotational force, race cars chassis, frame, auto cross, drag racing, etc.,etc., etc. (I could go on).

All I'm doing is offering a new trans mount at a discounted price because I don't need it. Besides that goal I also wanted to take a bit of a swing at Woodhouse for their 25% restocking fee which I thought was a bit excessive for a part that costs $41.60.

Tow Dog was the first that mentioned engine mounts. I thought no big deal, let's where it goes. Then vibration is discussed, again OK. You pop up and sound like you're lecturing US and trying to impress us with your world of knowledge. You invite us to debate the issue in a Knowledgeable and Friendly manner but come off sounding like a ****ing *******.

Then more off topic posts from others and two from you, one of which you must have edited (don't see it now) that basically says if you don't want a car (or can't handle) a car that vibrates go by a Corvette (another tasteless slam). I've had 19, currently have one and you're talking a totally different animal but a VERY RESPECTABLE AND IMPRESSIVE CAR compared to the Viper.

Then comes your (hopefully except for an apology) last post. Again a ****ing *******. Have we met? Did I screw your old lady or baby sister? I don't think so, so what's with the attitude? Basically you're inferring I'm an ignorant hick that doesn't know **** and is just out there modding my car with no idea of what I'm doing.

So back to the OP. DOES ANYONE HAVE A NEED OF A WOODHOUSE TRANS MOUNT AT A DISCOUNTED PRICE?

So, thanks everyone for letting me vent. I hope I didn't offend anyone except 2000 RT.


2000 RT10, Learn some manners if you're going to post on this forum and learn the rules such as hijacking other peoples threads.

Good night and **** Off

 

[2000_Black_RT10]

Wow, I'm almost speechless by your posts, content and attitude so let me vent and get back to having fun.

First off, go back and read the OP (closely). Do you see anything about engine mounts, wheel hop, drive line, power train, shocks, lateral force, rotational force, race cars chassis, frame, auto cross, drag racing, etc.,etc., etc. (I could go on).

All I'm doing is offering a new trans mount at a discounted price because I don't need it. Besides that goal I also wanted to take a bit of a swing at Woodhouse for their 25% restocking fee which I thought was a bit excessive for a part that costs $41.60.

Tow Dog was the first that mentioned engine mounts. I thought no big deal, let's where it goes. Then vibration is discussed, again OK. You pop up and sound like you're lecturing US and trying to impress us with your world of knowledge. You invite us to debate the issue in a Knowledgeable and Friendly manner but come off sounding like a ****ing *******.

Then more off topic posts from others and two from you, one of which you must have edited (don't see it now) that basically says if you don't want a car (or can't handle) a car that vibrates go by a Corvette (another tasteless slam). I've had 19, currently have one and you're talking a totally different animal but a VERY RESPECTABLE AND IMPRESSIVE CAR compared to the Viper.

Then comes your (hopefully except for an apology) last post. Again a ****ing *******. Have we met? Did I screw your old lady or baby sister? I don't think so, so what's with the attitude? Basically you're inferring I'm an ignorant hick that doesn't know **** and is just out there modding my car with no idea of what I'm doing.

So back to the OP. DOES ANYONE HAVE A NEED OF A WOODHOUSE TRANS MOUNT AT A DISCOUNTED PRICE?

So, thanks everyone for letting me vent. I hope I didn't offend anyone except 2000 RT.


2000 RT10, Learn some manners if you're going to post on this forum and learn the rules such as hijacking other peoples threads.

Good night and **** Off

That reply was odd.

To think that I thought that I was helping out... Btw, my wife works at GM, owns a Corvette which I do like. Only thing I was was suggesting is that if you wanted a more comfy ride, they're more suited and designed for that. Viper are intentionally designed to ride harsher. I used to work for Chrysler in the Viper engineering group in Michigan.

It's unfortunate that you read my replies in that way, it wasn't intended that way.

Good luck selling your transmission mount.
Mike