The gang at Woodhouse could tell you more about the Gen 4 and whether it benefits from the MGW shifter. I'm using it on a Gen 3. I'm thinking if you are happy with the spring-loading, centering, and overall feel of the stock shifter (and don't miss shifts with it), then there is little reason...
No, but a lot of guys here like the MGW shift mechanism over the stocker. A search will bring up reviews of that product (around $350). I combined the MGW shift linkage with a 2010 Dodge Viper ACR short shifter (which has the same type of stock shifter knob with the shaft length reduced in...
A lot of things can affect mileage... draggy brake caliper, bad wheel alignment, dirty injectors, clogging cats, etc. Have you checked the rear end ratio (either measure driveshaft revolutions per wheel revolution or compare engine RPM Vs. speed as charted for this car)?
The duty cycle purge solenoid has nothing to do with Exhaust Gas Recirculation-- it's job is to take fumes from the fuel system that collect in the charcoal cannister and 'purge' the canister of fumes by letting them get drawn into the engine. I suppose the tuning map could compensate for the...
The rubber inner boot on the shifter is paper thin and is intended to stop airflow but not heat that is conducted through the shift mech itself. So it will reduce the temp of the ring surrounding the leather boot on your console, but not the temp of the shift lever. I got good results lining...
The front looks bad-asp but there's only so much you can do with the 'vert rear. I actually prefer the idea of a wrap since you can always change it later. At this point, to get a more agressive look in the back would require something like a 'vert low wing, but that's big dollars and not...
Your owners manual actually has a page on guidelines for motor oil based on what ambient temps you will be running the car in. The 0W-40 oil is the factory fill, but for warmer temps I prefer 15W-50. The lighter base-stock oils can save a bit in terms of fuel economy, and more importantly...
I am sure Brembo knows how to make a decent parking brake but this one sux. Agree with uvnbit above-- you should never have to change parking brake pads under normal driving conditions. Having 'em drag constantly not only wastes energy but adds -even more- wonderful brake dust to your wheels...
Mine had the seat belt buckle issue on the passenger side as well... at times could be a severe rattle on sharp-edged bumps. I ended up using a 3-inch square of self-adhesive black 1/4" foam on the panel behind the passenger seat where the buckle was making contact. Can't stand rattles... :crazy2:
I had a failure like this (non-Viper) where the engine temp sensor feeding the ECU broke and caused the ECU to think the engine was fully cold all the time. So as the engine warmed up, it ran much worse! However, this would generally cause the mixture to be overly rich and not lean as you...
This chipout starts as a horizontal stress crack about 1 cm long... I've seen the cracks. May need a bright light to see it. Apparently there is some force acting on that corner of the plastic panel.
After talking with someone who should know-- the chip-out starts as a small horizontal hairline stress crack. Almost all of these panels will develop the stress crack over time and usage (driving, shutting the door). Eventually the corner piece of plastic just pops free completely and you are...
I would get the code read (or buy a code reader for now and the future: $45 and up at Harbor Freight). While these cars are known for bad cats, it could be a number of things at this point, including ignition and fuel delivery. I once had similar symptoms from bad gas (on another car)...
On my 2005 that hose with elbows is sold as an assembly (if we are talking about the same hose-- from left valve cover near the oil fill cap to the front lower intake manifold). I have one new-in-the-bag as a spare... the P/N is 05037306AE. Search on that and it's about $18.79.
Yeah, but since I paid more than $6,000 for those "DD"s, you bet I'm gonna say they're completely better in every way than her old B-cups! And the geometry, OMG, what a difference! :smirk:
One of the things I enjoy most about my Gen 3 is the instantaneous throttle response. It does have a DC tune and a 3.73 Visco-Lok rear end (from a Gen IV), so that accentuates things a bit, but I would miss this kind of throttle response in a drive-by-wire Viper. I do think the upgraded...
Hmmm, there shouldn't be a large difference in the temps from side to side. If you check the exhaust flow at idle with your hand is there a noticeable lack of flow on the driver side? Could be a sign of a clogging catalytic convertor. Or it could be just missing insulation on the passenger...
I used to be in the Speed Parts biz many years ago. It can be tough to tell a customer that the wholesale source has a big delay in their shipments since you might lose the sale. However, in the long run it is best to just be honest and hope the customer is willing to wait. Also, I believe...
Rather than taking the sills on and off to get it perfect, how about some sort of jig taped to the side of the car which indicates exactly where the tip of the exhaust should be? In other words, you'd have a thin piece of triangular-shaped plastic or cardboard hanging from tape and positioned...
I've done that same line on my '05, and I can tell you now that I would not bother replacing the line with the same old part from the factory. There is a nice aftermarket upgrade available from JTS Venom Performance that sells for $220 for two braided lines (PS pump to fan and fan to steering...
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