Borla install went bad...need muffler shop in Pleasanton ca area

White 04 Mamba

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I started changing out my stock exhaust to Borla cat backs. Got the side sills off....got the aluminum plate on the bottom off and then I went to take the muffler off and noticed that the previous owner put in a straight pipe and eliminated the muffler but unfortunatly welded the damn pipe and clamp onto the cat. NowI need a muffler shop to burn off the welds to salvage as much of the cat outlet tube as I need to install my Borla mufflers. I live in Pleasanton Ca and was wondering if anyone had a recomendation on a good muffler shop in the area? Also...Is it safe to drive a short distance without the stiffner plate on the bottom of the car? I figured I would just drive over with everythi ng take apart. Any suggestions or helpwould be apprieciated.
 
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I started changing out my stock exhaust to Borla cat backs. Got the side sills off....got the aluminum plate on the bottom off and then I went to take the muffler off and noticed that the previous owner put in a straight pipe and eliminated the muffler but unfortunatly welded the damn pipe and clamp onto the cat. NowI need a muffler shop to burn off the welds to salvage as much of the cat outlet tube as I need to install my Borla mufflers. I live in Pleasanton Ca and was wondering if anyone had a recomendation on a good muffler shop in the area? Also...Is it safe to drive a short distance without the stiffner plate on the bottom of the car? I figured I would just drive over with everythi ng take apart. Any suggestions or helpwould be apprieciated.

Maurice might be able to recommend a shop near your location.

Northern California VCA
 

GTS-R 001

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I started changing out my stock exhaust to Borla cat backs. Got the side sills off....got the aluminum plate on the bottom off and then I went to take the muffler off and noticed that the previous owner put in a straight pipe and eliminated the muffler but unfortunatly welded the damn pipe and clamp onto the cat. NowI need a muffler shop to burn off the welds to salvage as much of the cat outlet tube as I need to install my Borla mufflers. I live in Pleasanton Ca and was wondering if anyone had a recomendation on a good muffler shop in the area? Also...Is it safe to drive a short distance without the stiffner plate on the bottom of the car? I figured I would just drive over with everythi ng take apart. Any suggestions or helpwould be apprieciated.

IF you are talking about the belly pan, I don't think you need it out to change the exhaust, just drive over with your side sills off and let them get to work. Just ask in advance if they have a machine to bend pipe etc. and they should be able to do the job, you just need to spec if it is 3" or whatever you have
 
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White 04 Mamba

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White 04 Mamba

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IF you are talking about the belly pan, I don't think you need it out to change the exhaust, just drive over with your side sills off and let them get to work. Just ask in advance if they have a machine to bend pipe etc. and they should be able to do the job, you just need to spec if it is 3" or whatever you have

I read here somewhere that you need to take this out to get the cross over out. I can tell you that I couldn't reach 2 clamp bolts without it removed. Since 'salready out I was wondering if it is ok to drive easily without it installed?
 

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You only need to remove the belly pan if you are removing the cross pipes. It sounds like the previous owner already removed them, so no prob.
Valya Racing is San Jose can probably help you.
 

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Sorry, Valaya Racing
447 W. ST. JOHN ST.
SAN JOSE, CA 95110
408.297.1990
 

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It my also be easier to simply grind the welds off. You cannot simply "burn off" welds - or at least, you shouldn't want anyone putting a cutting torch or plasma cutter anywhere near this area. This is a welded not soldered joint. Steel melts at approximately 3000 degrees F. A small die grinder should work - assuming the welds are intermittent (such as a series of small tack welds) and not continuous (around the enitre circumference of the joint).

No need for belly pan removal if there's no crossover.
 

RTTTTed

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Unbolt the front, remove the exhuast from the car and use a hacksaw or sawzall?
 
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White 04 Mamba

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You only need to remove the belly pan if you are removing the cross pipes. It sounds like the previous owner already removed them, so no prob.
Valya Racing is San Jose can probably help you.

No he didn't remove them...just the muffler and weldd in a straight pipe....crossovers are still in. If it wern't for the cabin heat I wouldn't change it because it actualy sounds really good.
 
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White 04 Mamba

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It my also be easier to simply grind the welds off. You cannot simply "burn off" welds - or at least, you shouldn't want anyone putting a cutting torch or plasma cutter anywhere near this area. This is a welded not soldered joint. Steel melts at approximately 3000 degrees F. A small die grinder should work - assuming the welds are intermittent (such as a series of small tack welds) and not continuous (around the enitre circumference of the joint).

No need for belly pan removal if there's no crossover.

I never said there was no cross over. He removed the mufflers but kept the crossover.
 
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White 04 Mamba

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It my also be easier to simply grind the welds off. You cannot simply "burn off" welds - or at least, you shouldn't want anyone putting a cutting torch or plasma cutter anywhere near this area. This is a welded not soldered joint. Steel melts at approximately 3000 degrees F. A small die grinder should work - assuming the welds are intermittent (such as a series of small tack welds) and not continuous (around the enitre circumference of the joint).

No need for belly pan removal if there's no crossover.

Thanks for the tip......Got my various grinders out and spent about 2 hours on the drivers side and 15 min on the right side. The drivers side was welded in a U shape down the sides, along the bottom and up the other side. The right side only had a very small weld on the bottom. Big pain but it's done. Great idea. By the way steel is molten at 1100 to 1400 degrees not 3000 but I agree that you dont want to put a torch in there.[/B]
 
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White 04 Mamba

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Everything went well today and I got the old welded up exhaust and crossover out and got the new Borla muffler in. Now I have a slight leak where the muffler clamps to the cat. The drivers side is slightly worse then the right side. I am guessing because i had to do so much grinding that I took the cat extension out of round or left a burr there. I torqued to 35 ft pounds. Directions called for 32 to 35 ft pounds. My question now is, how do i stop the leak? Notice the position of the clamp. On both side it is leaking at the very bottom right at the gap in the clamp. Any ideas?

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RTTTTed

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(correct me if wrong) but 1Tony1 said in an earlier thread that some tinfoil wrapped around the pipe under the clamp will help prevent leaks.
Ted
 

ILLSMOQ

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35ftlbs? you're going to need to tighten it more than that if you don't want it to leak...plus you better put some spot welds where they are coupled together otherwise it will start rotating downward and eventually the tip will touch the side sill.
 
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White 04 Mamba

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35ftlbs? you're going to need to tighten it more than that if you don't want it to leak...plus you better put some spot welds where they are coupled together otherwise it will start rotating downward and eventually the tip will touch the side sill.

I thought that was weak also but Borla was adamant about not tightening further. Any recommendations of how much tighter?

Does foil do anything to stop leaks? Spot welding sounds like the ticket. If I spot weld can I then put the tip closer to center?

Borla says to put the front of the tip a 1/4" from the front of the hole opening for expansion. I didn't follow that because it looked crappy that close, but I am closer to the front then the rear.
 

ILLSMOQ

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How far did the pipe go into the muffler? Those look like heavier clamps...try tightening them up a bit and start it see if it helps.

When the pipes heat up they move backward around 1/2 inch, you need to have them positioned close to the front of the opening.
 
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White 04 Mamba

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How far did the pipe go into the muffler? Those look like heavier clamps...try tightening them up a bit and start it see if it helps.

When the pipes heat up they move backward around 1/2 inch, you need to have them positioned close to the front of the opening.

I'll try that tonight. The Borla muffler went at least 3 inches onto the cat outlet pipe. One thing I'm worried about is I ground in a groove on the cat outlet pipe when grinding the old clamp and pipe. This was on the drivers side. I may have a hard time getting that to seal.
 

Paul Hawker

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The reason that it is recomended to position your tip nearer the front of the car is that the pipe will expand when warm, and push against the back of the hole.
 

RTTTTed

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As far as leaks and clamps go there is a possibility that Semi muffler clamps would seal the pipe and muffler together since they make them in various sizes and up to 5" wide.

Buy from a Freightliner, KW or Western Star dealer.

Ted
 
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White 04 Mamba

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As far as leaks and clamps go there is a possibility that Semi muffler clamps would seal the pipe and muffler together since they make them in various sizes and up to 5" wide.

Buy from a Freightliner, KW or Western Star dealer.

Ted


Thanks Ted......I might try that after trying a few other ideas. I have been searching through 1tony1's threads and can't find the aluminum foil trick you spoke about. I might try that tonight as well if other things don't work.
 

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