Garage Addition Advice needed (plans attached)

[lagalaxy13]

I have a existing garage that i'm looking to add onto. Existing garage is a pole building 24x24, new one will be either pole or stud (looking at cost difference, a few factors play in.) 32x32

I've attached a plan, elevations, and a section. I want to put a 4 post lift in for Viper Storage in the winter. But what I'm seeing is with the lift It's going to be hard to get a car in beside it. I think drawing shows 16' door but planning 18' now. Designing around lift, so planning side mount door openers.

What am I missing in this design, for you guys that have dream garages. (This is not a dream garage but a means to get me some more space to park & work.)

Any advice would be great, I don't want the "Damn wish I would have done that" after it's built.

 

[jdeft1]

Looks to me like you have it covered. I'd suggest you be sure to add 240V outlets.... and perhaps plumbing and a drain line for a bathroom/wash sink etc.

 

[mjorgensen Woodhouse]

Can never have a large enough electrical panel or enough lights!

 

[lagalaxy13]

Looks to me like you have it covered. I'd suggest you be sure to add 240V outlets.... and perhaps plumbing and a drain line for a bathroom/wash sink etc.

I have a wash sink already. I can't have a bathroom because there is no way I can tap into my existing septic tank, without pretty much having to put a new septic in. So that's been out for quite awhile.

I'll probably have 2 240v outlets someday. I need to upgrade the exisiting panel in house and existing garage. I bought the property next door and want to add that existing garage into this panel someday when i tear the rental house out.

 

[big-n-italian]

i am doing some modifications now to add a stackable washer and dryer. washing dirty rags in the garage is always better than washing dirty rags in the house.

lots of space, alot of lights, alot of outlets, fridge, tv and alot of memoribilia was my starting point.

good luck! look good to me!

 

[jdeft1]

I have a wash sink already. I can't have a bathroom because there is no way I can tap into my existing septic tank, without pretty much having to put a new septic in. So that's been out for quite awhile.

I'll probably have 2 240v outlets someday. I need to upgrade the exisiting panel in house and existing garage. I bought the property next door and want to add that existing garage into this panel someday when i tear the rental house out.

The bathroom was just a thought... My garage is detached and has no toilet... I agree with mjorgensen. A heavy-up may be in order. My machine tools require 240V but you may want a compressor, lift etc.. Can't have too much power in a workshop!

 

[lagalaxy13]

lots of space,
QUOTE]



I could go bigger, but trying not to unless I have too. I was just going to go 30X24 at first but realized I do want a lift.
If I keep going bigger i will add more cars and parts. Things I said 6 years ago I wasn't going to hoard anymore. So if I keep it small I can't have carp I don't "need". Storage for 3 cars and 2 daily drivers is really all I need.

lots of space, alot of lights, alot of outlets, fridge, tv and alot of memoribilia was my starting point.
QUOTE]

Yea It will be lit up well. I hate not being able to see. Fridge check, tv check, there will be a cable line ran when the plumb chase gets run. Part of why this garage is being built is to display my diecast collection and other misc stuff.

 

[LifeIsGood]

One thing to remember about the 4 post lifts is that the posts are the widest part. The runways will be inside that width quite a bit. Mine is 10' 1" wide at the posts (outside to outside), but the width between the outside of the runways is 6' 7". My wife parks her 4Runner next to the lift and while there's only 16-20 inches of space between it and the outside of the posts, there is 3+ feet of room for her doors to open, as they open up inside/between the posts and towards the runway.

 

[LittleFish]

** T5 lights are the best. My neighbor insisted that I put heat in the floor and spray foam insulation. I thank him every time I see him. It was definitely worth the extra cost.

Why do you have the garage door 4+ ft from the side wall? You will probably have trouble even getting to the lift with 36" ramps. I might be inclined to move the overhead door closer to the side wall so you can drive straight in onto the ramp. I would set the lift farther back so that driving in another car would be much easier. I have my lifts back to the door so that they are 36" from the door. Do you have hot water for you hose? I usually use shower fixtures or outside hot/cold fixtures for outside.

for inspiration: http://forums.viperclub.org/kansas-city/628846-man-cave-starts-pics.html

 

[dipapa]

From the garage top view if your comfortable with your lift there great.

I see your problem being the limitations on the single 16' or even 18' wide garage door.

In the front view, do you need that new garage front entry door?

Thats where is see the problem.

If this is a garage to maximize parking & work space, loose the single entry door and put in 2 10-12 ft garage doors adjacent each other. A 10-12 ft garage door is wide enough to handle almost any width vehicle or item. 2 wide doors adjacent even better.

You have 32 ft of new garage width and therefore for functionality maximize all you can in useful entrance & exit width with 2 garage doors thus creating 2 independent adjacent bays.

When you want to enter garage put a small single person entry door somewhere else or just hit electronic remote or keycoded panel for either garage door to open somewhere on internal or external wall.

 

[dipapa]

You should also really lengthen the front to back distance of the new garage too.

Looks like you only need to go back a few more feet to do that.

Do you have space to push the rear wall back a few feet?

This will turn new garage floor space from a 2 car garage to a 4 car garage thus seriously increasing the return on development investment.

 

[ViperTony]

Consider installing plumbing to your new garage so that you can wash your vehicles inside, comes in handy during the winter months here. Also consider installing a slop sink to degrease yourself after wrenching on cars. My neighbor installed drains in his garage so he can wash his cars during the winter, I wish I did.

 

[Black Moon]

Your lift is drawn as 12' wide. Is it that big? If not draw it actual size and it should look much better as well as moving it closer to the wall.

 

[Martin]

Since you asked, here's my $0.02:

- Upgrade to a 6" slab - the extra cost isn't much, and it'll be a lot more solid.
- Before pouring the slab, lay down conduit wherever you even remotely think you might want to eventually run electrical. Having conduit runs under the slab is a lot cleaner than running expansion circuits along the walls later.
- I'd personally do 12' walls instead of 10' walls. There's a lot of extra space to be had up there with that extra two feet.
- If you can't plumb a toilet into your septic, think about a composting toilet. There are some really good ones out there, and having a toilet in the garage is nice.
- Install a kegerator and set up the C02 supply so that it not only keeps your beer pressurized and fresh, but also feeds your MIG welder.

 

[Black Moon]

6" versus 4" is about $600 plus additional labor. FYI

 

[X-Metal]

Since you asked, here's my $0.02:

- Upgrade to a 6" slab - the extra cost isn't much, and it'll be a lot more solid.
- Before pouring the slab, lay down conduit wherever you even remotely think you might want to eventually run electrical. Having conduit runs under the slab is a lot cleaner than running expansion circuits along the walls later.
- I'd personally do 12' walls instead of 10' walls. There's a lot of extra space to be had up there with that extra two feet.
- If you can't plumb a toilet into your septic, think about a composting toilet. There are some really good ones out there, and having a toilet in the garage is nice.
- Install a kegerator and set up the C02 supply so that it not only keeps your beer pressurized and fresh, but also feeds your MIG welder.

smart man, very good advice! i went 12' walls in mine and i wish they were 14'... the c02 supply is pure genius..

 

[lagalaxy13]

One thing to remember about the 4 post lifts is that the posts are the widest part. The runways will be inside that width quite a bit. Mine is 10' 1" wide at the posts (outside to outside), but the width between the outside of the runways is 6' 7". My wife parks her 4Runner next to the lift and while there's only 16-20 inches of space between it and the outside of the posts, there is 3+ feet of room for her doors to open, as they open up inside/between the posts and towards the runway.

With my lift on the right even if there is no car door clearence this won't be a problem anyways being a detached garage, if there is a passenger they will always get out before getting in garage. But was hoping for room to work on something beside lift. But thanks for the info because i didn't think of it this way. I'm debateing making the garage 2'-0" wider.

 

[lagalaxy13]

** T5 lights are the best. My neighbor insisted that I put heat in the floor and spray foam insulation. I thank him every time I see him. It was definitely worth the extra cost.

Why do you have the garage door 4+ ft from the side wall? You will probably have trouble even getting to the lift with 36" ramps. I might be inclined to move the overhead door closer to the side wall so you can drive straight in onto the ramp. I would set the lift farther back so that driving in another car would be much easier. I have my lifts back to the door so that they are 36" from the door. Do you have hot water for you hose? I usually use shower fixtures or outside hot/cold fixtures for outside.

for inspiration: http://forums.viperclub.org/kansas-city/628846-man-cave-starts-pics.html

In floor heat would be nice but I'm trying to keep the cost down right now, plus I have a good friend that owns a hvac company and i can get stuff at cost so keeps that cost down for me.
I looked into the spray foam, but the price is much more then I want to go. I can insulate it myself and keep that cost down.

Garage door is 4'-0" in to match the existing garage.
The lift shown was kind of floating right now. So it can be moved. I made the garage deeper and never moved the lift back. It will probably sit as far "north" as it can.

I was going to put a point of use hot water tank in. To feed it from my house it is too long of a line.

 

[johnk]

Replacing the single 18' door with a pair of 9x8 doors would allow more direct access into the garage in your drawing. Good luck.....

 

[lagalaxy13]

From the garage top view if your comfortable with your lift there great.

I see your problem being the limitations on the single 16' or even 18' wide garage door.

In the front view, do you need that new garage front entry door?

Thats where is see the problem.

If this is a garage to maximize parking & work space, loose the single entry door and put in 2 10-12 ft garage doors adjacent each other. A 10-12 ft garage door is wide enough to handle almost any width vehicle or item. 2 wide doors adjacent even better.

You have 32 ft of new garage width and therefore for functionality maximize all you can in useful entrance & exit width with 2 garage doors thus creating 2 independent adjacent bays.

When you want to enter garage put a small single person entry door somewhere else or just hit electronic remote or keycoded panel for either garage door to open somewhere on internal or external wall.

Lift is just floating right now (I'll revise the drawing and repost.)

The single 18'-0" door is to match the existing garage. Trying to make it look the same.

Yes I need the new man door to have access to this garage. The existing garage will not be heated & will become just a storage daily driver garage. Don't want to have to walk though it everytime i need to get to work space garage. But will look into moving door maybe to "east" side.

I did do a scheme with two single doors. I'll relook at it if i take out the man door.

The wind blows very hard (plus we have winter here )to the front of these doors so opening the garage doors everytime is not going to happen would rather just enter from existing garage.

 

[lagalaxy13]

You should also really lengthen the front to back distance of the new garage too.

Looks like you only need to go back a few more feet to do that.

Do you have space to push the rear wall back a few feet?

This will turn new garage floor space from a 2 car garage to a 4 car garage thus seriously increasing the return on development investment.

I was thinking 32' should be good enough it's 6'-0 longer then I have now. Plus that is my property line. I did buy the property next door, but I'm running into existing trees etc, that I don't want to disrubt. I am thinking of adding another 2'-0" to the east side. How much farhter do you think i need to go?

 

[lagalaxy13]

Consider installing plumbing to your new garage so that you can wash your vehicles inside, comes in handy during the winter months here. Also consider installing a slop sink to degrease yourself after wrenching on cars. My neighbor installed drains in his garage so he can wash his cars during the winter, I wish I did.

It's already planned and on the plan. The goal is to have a tarp/curtain on one side to block the lift cars from the car washing in the winter.

 

[lagalaxy13]

Your lift is drawn as 12' wide. Is it that big? If not draw it actual size and it should look much better as well as moving it closer to the wall.

It think I found those dims somewhere online. I haven't picked out a lift yet. & with all the changes i've made it's not sitting right either on the plan. Will be hard to get it closer to wall and being able to get a car under it. Hope to get one with a caster kit. to move it closer and dollie a car underneath, but might be a pipe dream. I would love it tight to the wall.

 

[lagalaxy13]

Since you asked, here's my $0.02:

- Upgrade to a 6" slab - the extra cost isn't much, and it'll be a lot more solid.
- Before pouring the slab, lay down conduit wherever you even remotely think you might want to eventually run electrical. Having conduit runs under the slab is a lot cleaner than running expansion circuits along the walls later.
- I'd personally do 12' walls instead of 10' walls. There's a lot of extra space to be had up there with that extra two feet.
- If you can't plumb a toilet into your septic, think about a composting toilet. There are some really good ones out there, and having a toilet in the garage is nice.
- Install a kegerator and set up the C02 supply so that it not only keeps your beer pressurized and fresh, but also feeds your MIG welder.

Getting a quote for 6" & 4" slab.
Thanks for the thought on conduit but less cost just to run it overhead.
Not sure why I would need the extra wall height if i'm going with a open truss.
I'm a country boy I have no problem using the grass , plus the house isn't that far away. But will look to see what a composting toilet is.
KEGERATOR IS THE BEST IDEA SO FAR. But cost is a issue on this build so will probably have to stick to the 24 packs.

 

[lagalaxy13]

smart man, very good advice! i went 12' walls in mine and i wish they were 14'... the c02 supply is pure genius..

But did you go with a open truss?
I'm thinking of raiseing it, but if i don't need the space I hate to have the extra cost.
That's why this post is here to hear feedback, because like i said i don't want to say down the road wish i would have done that.

 

[DarcShadow]

I was going to put a point of use hot water tank in. To feed it from my house it is too long of a line.

Be aware of the electrical requirements of the point of use heater. I had one put in our half bath when the house was built thinking that the builder would do what was needed. They ran a 120V 20A line but the heater specs are 120V 30A. The heater works but the breaker does pop occasionally and the circuit is not dedicated so if something else is turned on at the same time someone tries to wash their hands he breaker will almost always trip. If you're going to have 240V in the garage, I'd suggested going with a 240V point of use heater. Much more effecient and noticably hotter water. The 120V 30A that I have the water is just warm at best.

 

[lagalaxy13]

No other comments or replies?

 

[ViperTony]

No other comments or replies?

Yes, post pics of your progress.

 

[Martin]

No other comments or replies?

About the only thing I'd comment on again is the height of the walls. The cost difference between 10' and 12' walls isn't going to be too great. Think of it this way - sheets of building material (like plywood and drywall) come in 4x8 sections as a standard, and drywall can be had in 4x12 sections. If you go 10' walls, your builders are going to spend extra time (and wasted materials) cutting the plywood and drywall to fit. If you go 12' walls, everything can go up with a minimum of cutting and waste. There will be a little more expense with outdoor siding, and interior insulation, but if you look at the benefits you'll get from the higher ceiling (more storage space, more room for lifts, more room to install tools later (like a hoist that's on tracks) and overall more spacious feel) and amortize the cost over the amount of time you'll be using the garage, you can't go wrong. The key when building stuff is to build it in a way that you'll be happy with long-term. Things are generally a lot easier to incorporate during the building process, but can be a pain or impossible later on. Once it's built, it's annoying to think "I wish I would have done this or that".

Regarding the conduit under the slab - it's a very inexpensive thing to do if you lay it prior to pouring the slab, and even if you don't use it for ten years, eventually you'll be darned glad it's there. Think of this scenario - ten years from now, you've got plywood and/or drywall on all the walls/ceilings, insulation is all in, and the install looks nice and clean. But, you now want to move your 240v 60 gallon air compressor from one side of the garage to the other... If you've already got the conduit under the slab and capped off, all you have to do is a wire pull. If you don't have that conduit installed under the slab, you're going to go through hell and make a mess of your ceiling/walls by running #6 three-conductor wire through conduit and boxes all over the place. That stuff can be a pain to work with, and the conduit you'll have to pull it through is relatively big and unsightly. Better to have it under the slab if you can.

Finally, the kegerator just makes sense any way you look at it. If you add up the cost savings of beer, plus the savings in the recycling charge for the cans/bottles, it pays for itself in a month (at least by my usage levels ).

 

[jk]

It think I found those dims somewhere online. I haven't picked out a lift yet. & with all the changes i've made it's not sitting right either on the plan. Will be hard to get it closer to wall and being able to get a car under it. Hope to get one with a caster kit. to move it closer and dollie a car underneath, but might be a pipe dream. I would love it tight to the wall.

Measure the distance from your car to the point where the door is fully open to its farthest point. Don't put your lift any closer to the side wall. I don't know how many times I have worked on my car when it was on the lift and wished I could get the door completely open whether it was to get the side sill screws out or to run new speaker wire to the doors, etc.