I am having some questions on the Gen 4 Vipers and how to diagnose some issues I have had, is there an e-mail I send my questions too?
SRT Engineering Chat HERE on March 3rd!
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The ACR-X was painted by Prefix.
To maintain the same level of ride/handling we strongly recommend you use OEM replacements, not equivalents.
Vipers built between 1998 and 2006 had 75W-85 Castrol fluid for trans factory fill. This was rather thick stuff and cold shifting can be a little heavy. Since 2008, we have used ATF+4 fluid in the TR6060 and cold shifting is much better. If improving the cold shifting is important to you, try the ATF+4 in your T56. You will probably notice an increase in neutral rattle with the change to ATF, but that is the only tradeoff. Otherwise ATF+4 is a very good fluid.
Sorry, all the gauge information comes over the communication bus to the cluster. Most info comes from the engine controller but some comes through the body controller.
Valentine61
Viper Owner
Sorry, first time on SRT Chat and I thougth it would be a live chat in the chat room, but nobody there but me. Appears to strictly be Q&A on the forum...
The viper cab is technically forward of the rear wheels, but the concept you are referring to was used mostly with sedans and in no way part of the viper design.
If it is sometimes difficult to shift into 1st (or reverse) with all other shifting OK, I would take a look at your clutch fluid, cuz maybe the clutch is not quite releasing quick enough... maybe due to a little air or moisture in the fluid. In other normal driving, the trans synchros have enough capacity to 'cover for' a dragging clutch, so that's probably why you don't see it there. At your miles, I would do a good clutch fluid bleed with DOT 4 fluid and see if that helps.
Art - Arrow has not claimed 20 -25 HP with the ported intake, I think those numbers came for someone with an optimistic chassis dyno! More realistic would be 10 - 12 HP. We have looked at a similar package for the ACR-X but felt that 640 HP was a good place to stop for now. The ACR-X package is a good compromise between cost, durability and performance. Your package should be around 650 HP.
The lower fascia deflectors effectively reduce drag, and can be installed on Gen III cars. These parts are available through Mopar currently, just make sure you install the center air dam and side deflectors as a set for proper performance.
It will be some work to install it correctly as it has attachments on the back of the seat that attached to brackets that are welded on to the frame rails. You would also have to cut away the carpeting behind the seat.
Lastly, the upper part of the seat will interfere with the door trim so some modification will probably be necessary.
Tom Francis at Viper Race Headquarters can order one for you. He can be reached at 888-960-3333. P5154462.
Racetech does make a seat that do not have the back brackets and only a slight modification to the seat is required. We used this on the Carbon Car.
The ACR is balanced with a bias toward more rear downforce. This gives the car a tendency for slight aero-induced understeer and makes the high speed handling manageble for the weekend track rat. The upper dive planes on the ACRX give the pro driver a greater ability to adjust for a neutral balance. This can be a difficult set up for less experienced drivers. With the rear wing adjustment, the ACRX driver can dial in more rear wing for greater overall downforce at the same rear bias as the standard ACR.
To make a long story short, more downforce is almost always better, but if you have too much on the front the car is much more tricky to drive.
if you go i'd like to piggy back with you. i'll bring a crew chief and a ecu tuner with me, split track costs
i have an '06 coupe (running factory ACR aero). Car is twin turboed, running a holinger sequential. I think the car could turn a decent ring time
We are checking into this. We can't say for sure that we will be able to make it happen... but understand where you are coming from. We can get you an updated report in a future chat...
Grailkeeper says, maybe you should just keep the car!!!
I have a 98 GTS and every time I go to the garage and see the car I become very aroused and go back in the house, grab my wife and make love to her. She is very frustrated and wants me to get rid of the car because she cant get anything done all summer. Have you got a cure for this? PS. I had a Corvette for years and this NEVER happened.
Actually I do have a question.
In light of the recent Toyota recalls, regarding the electronic throttle controls;
Is there a fix for the inherent "spongeyness" of the e-throttle (a first in a Viper)in my Gen IV? It's almost like driving my carburated '66 Shelby. The response in my GenIII was so much more direct.
I understand there is an Mopar PCM upgrade for off road use that fixes the problem and adds power, but mine is mostly driven on the streets.
In light of the recent Toyota recalls, regarding the electronic throttle controls;
Is there a fix for the inherent "spongeyness" of the e-throttle (a first in a Viper)in my Gen IV? It's almost like driving my carburated '66 Shelby. The response in my GenIII was so much more direct.
I understand there is an Mopar PCM upgrade for off road use that fixes the problem and adds power, but mine is mostly driven on the streets.
This would be a huge undertaking becuase it will require both electronic and mechanical updates only available from the Gen IV. At this point, you'd better off buying a Gen IV instead.
The 2009 bezel lowers the window lift switches. The cradle that holds the switches to the bottom of the bezel is also new to line-up the switch height. If the 2009 bezel and switch cradle are used together then it should fit into the 2008. Wiring is the same and you have clearence below the switches.
Valentine61
Viper Owner
Going from stock ZP tires on 2006 SRT/10 to PS2's, what should new setup be to adjust for the softer tire? It was suggested to use the 2008 setup adjusting Front Caster from 6.00 to 7.00, camber from -0.25 to -1.40, and Rear camber from -0.65 to -1.15 (all else remaining the same). Question is whether with the stock 2006 bushings and hardware can these changes be made, and if not, what can be achieved on the 2006 stock suspension?
1) Can't comment on future products.
2) You may want to try to re-train the voice recognition feature since you had it reprogrammed.
3) We recommend taking the tire to a Goodyear retail facility and have them review it, since the tires have an independent warranty.
4) We can't comment on future products.....
RichieSRT10
Enthusiast
I think Dick W. is an incredible asset to the SRT team. My only question is what will it take for him to get a well deserved raise
Sorry Jon. The 2010 vented end plates are designed to pull air out of the wing corner not let crosswind pass through.
You should be able to buy the 2010 end plates as separate parts but they will not be available for a while. The end plates were designed to work with the new wing rear edge. We woulnd't recommend just doing the end plates.
Hi Bob, local Pizza is more our style than exotic food but next time we are in town you can take us to an Outback!
2 - The ACR-X forged pistons were developed with the help of a couple of our suppliers, Mahle and Arrow. We had a difficult time finding any forged piston that worked as well at the stock cast piston but the new ACR-X design came very close (the cast piston is more compliant in the bore and seals better as a result but is not nearly as durable). Arrow has some pistons in stock so they may be able to help. We did run several other forged pistons and none came close to where we ended up with the ACR-X Mahle piston (including the earlier Mahle forgings).
6 - If the water deflector is taken off (Gen IV) chances are about 75% that you will limp out for an airflow rationality fault. The MAF sensors are very sensitive to how the air enters the clean air ducts and anything that changes it will cause issues (including different air cleaner elements). On a Gen III this of course is not an issue.
7 - We wanted to come back to Moroso but the track was booked and we ended up in Texas instead. We may come back if there is a need to test and it's too cold around here (although Florida and Texas wasn't very warm either!).
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We haven't tested it, so we can't comment on it.
First of all, you drive your Viper on 30-40 degree days!?! I hope we are talking about Celcius not Farenheit. All kidding aside, was the fluid changed in response to the high shift effort? Do you know what fluid the trans was filled with? Was there any change in behavior with the fluid change? Has the clutch actuation system ever been inspected? The entire system should be bled (check the service manual procedure) and then the clutch slave cylinder checked for proper travel. To check the transmission function alone, follow this procedure; with the vehicle stationary pull the trans into second gear, once it is fully engaged, push the lever forward into first. This has the effect of lining up the synchros. Try this to see if efforts are at all different with this procedure.
The stock intake to head bolts are 1/4-20x1"bolts. We have seen instances where ARP machined bolts are higher precision than the production rolled thread bolts and often have more thread engagement (higher peaks and deeper valleys in the threads). If you are confident the ARP bolts were not fine threaded or metric, then this may be the cause of the "tightness". Either way, it sounds like you took the best route of using the stock pieces and not risking damaging the threads in the head.
I think Dick W. is an incredible asset to the SRT team. My only question is what will it take for him to get a well deserved raise
We think he is pretty awesome too! He doesn't need a raise, he'd do this stuff for free!
Did number 2. It's still occasionally got a mind of its own. For instance, some times ( not frequently) on start up, it does not activate at all for a few minutes. It also sometimes creates a composite name tag. Like "David Work" turned into "David W Home" without me ever puting in the word "home" or the letter "w". Is the Jeep a female vehicle?
Brian GTS
Enthusiast
Hey guys...first, thank you for your time. A couple questions regarding my 09 Viper:
1) Why does the Mopar controller kill the decel popping? I would love to do that upgrade, but I love my decel popping!
2) I put HF cats on my 09 and received the check engine light. Per the advice of a well known Viper tech, I did some spirited driving and it did go away for several months. While the car was in hibernation for the winter, I started it to loosen things up and the CEL is back!!! Other than getting the Mopar controller, is there anything else that can be done?
BTW, bring back some curves for Gen V and I'll finally trade in one of my Gen II's.
1) Why does the Mopar controller kill the decel popping? I would love to do that upgrade, but I love my decel popping!
2) I put HF cats on my 09 and received the check engine light. Per the advice of a well known Viper tech, I did some spirited driving and it did go away for several months. While the car was in hibernation for the winter, I started it to loosen things up and the CEL is back!!! Other than getting the Mopar controller, is there anything else that can be done?
BTW, bring back some curves for Gen V and I'll finally trade in one of my Gen II's.
I thought the haircut was the sign of a trust fund baby. Now you have confirmed it.
You have a room full of experts now, what's your questions?
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