Stoptech cross-drilled rotors

PJJP

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just got them on today. they saved me over 32lbs. i weighed old and new rotors on my digital scale.
 

ILLSMOQ

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uhmmmm....a thread about your new drilled rotors....AND NO PICS?!?!?:dunno::nono:

....did you do them yourself?....and if so, did you have the e-brake tool :D
 

MikeR

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I weighed the slotted ones and it was about 30lbs savings. And the car felt better in the turns up in the hills and accelerating. They are awesome rotors and well worth the money. Theres a reason they use the Stoptechs on the new ACR.

And as far as question about power. I dont know how rotational mass translates into hp, but I know it makes a huge difference. I had posted a video. ILLSMOQ and I ran against eachother from a 3rd gear roll a week before and I got maybe a 1/2 -1 car on him. Then only change was my Stoptech rotors and we raced again. I put like 3-4 cars on him just from 3-4th gear. I had heard every 10lbs of unsprung weight is like a tenth in the quarter mile. It definatley makes a difference.
 

ILLSMOQ

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I weighed the slotted ones and it was about 30lbs savings. And the car felt better in the turns up in the hills and accelerating. They are awesome rotors and well worth the money. Theres a reason they use the Stoptechs on the new ACR.

And as far as question about power. I dont know how rotational mass translates into hp, but I know it makes a huge difference. I had posted a video. ILLSMOQ and I ran against eachother from a 3rd gear roll a week before and I got maybe a 1/2 -1 car on him. Then only change was my Stoptech rotors and we raced again. I put like 3-4 cars on him just from 3-4th gear. I had heard every 10lbs of unsprung weight is like a tenth in the quarter mile. It definatley makes a difference.


I've been trying to figure out an exact formula too...but it's actually a bit more complicated than I thought.

Not only does the weight have an effect on the performance gain, but the distribution of the weight has something to do with it as well. example: A 40 pound wheel with a diameter of 28" is going to have more rotating mass than a 40 pound wheel that is only 26" in diameter. 20" wheels with 335/30/20 are 28 inches and 18" SSR's with 335/30/18 are 26 inches (and very light)


Also the speed the item is rotating is significant too. example: loosing 10 pounds from a part that rotates at engine speed will provide more of a gain than loosing 10 pounds from a part rotating at wheel speed.


At some point in my quest of understanding rotating mass and the performance gains of going lighter, I ended up HERE .....I spent a few minutes looking at the page, then shrugged my shoulders :dunno: and turned on the X-BOX:smirk:

as for MikeR:quack: there....yeah it was crazy, I couldn't believe he went form pulling ahead by a little bit to walking away from me pretty hard....made a believer out of me so I picked up a set of drilled stop techs and a few other parts too. With the rotors, 3.55's and a few more ponies, 3rd gear rolls I walk Mike pretty good:headbang:
 

wallbanger

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V10.JPG
 

Nader

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Stoptechs are the way to go. I did mine recently and cant be happier. I went slotted. At the same time i did stoptech stainless lines on all four corners. I didnt think you could improve the stock system but the stoptechs did just that. The weight saving and improvement in suspension feel is worth the money alone.

There are other rotors out there but I just felt Stoptechs were the best choice when considering performance, looks, price, company history, and availability of parts. There is a reason they are on the ACR. I did notice a change an improvement in ride quality and handling with the lighter rotors.

great choice.


DSC07956.JPG



also the weight reduction allows the suspension components to respond quicker to changes in the road and directional changes
 

MikeR

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An interesting article on the effects of reducing sprung vs. unsprung weight.

Sprung Vs. Unsprung Chassis Weight: Definition and Examples

Interesting article. From what I took of that article, they dont seem to think there is a big difference between sprung or unsprung. I think there is.

I used to keep up from a roll with ILLSMOQ when I had less power, but I had lighter Sidewinder wheels and he had 20" HRE's which weigh more. My reasoning, unsprung weight. I walked him good after putting rotors on, Unsprung weight.

But then we also have noticed that when one of us has a passenger and other doesnt, the person with passenger loses close to a car advantage.

I used to hear at drag strip, that lose 100lbs from your car, by removing seats, jack, whatever of sprung weight and you will pick up a tenth in 1/4 mile. But I heard lose 10 lbs of unsprung weight and you will pick up a tenth in 1/4 mile. Its still all hear say, but I think unsprung weight is more effective then removing sprung weight. Im no genius, so I just go by what Ive personally seen in my friends and I testing our Vipers every weekend.
 
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PJJP

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I went with drilled mainly because of looks. I was only expecting 18-20lb savings and was pleasantly surprised when I added it up.
 

Fast Too

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I tried needle nose pliers and hand full of other tools but couldn't get the piston to budge. I went out and bought the proper piston tool and it was a snap.

Sorry to hear you had trouble. Mine piston pushed in very easily with the needle nose. Maybe I got bad e-brakes but they seem to work fine when I set it. :dunno:
 
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PJJP

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I got the rotor from partsrack. I think they were $1800 or so for the drilled.
 

MikeR

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Looks great ...:2tu:...... so HOW MUCH $$ ??

Call Jon B at Parts Rack.

The drilled cost a bit more then the slotted. If you want the look , then pay extra for drilled. If you want just the performance, go with the slotted and save a few bucks. The slotted are also supposed to work better if you track alot or are very ******* your brakes.
 

Dustman

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Call Jon B at Parts Rack.

The drilled cost a bit more then the slotted. If you want the look , then pay extra for drilled. If you want just the performance, go with the slotted and save a few bucks. The slotted are also supposed to work better if you track alot or are very ******* your brakes.


Thanks a lot Mike :2tu: - will do !
 

MikeR

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um partsrack has stoptech 2 peice rotors for less than $900 why did you guys spend $1800? Online Shopping

Because that price of $900 is for a "PAIR" . I kinda like to do all four when I change rotors. ;)

Jon B had a deal going on slotted awhile back for about $1600 and the drilled were $1800 for a set.
 

Jeff Monheim

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Just my .02 worth! I read on this site somewhere that the ratio of unsprung to sprung weight is 7 to 1. meaning that every pound of unsprung weight you save is equel to 7 lbs of sprung weight reduction. For what it is worth.
I am waiting for my eurotech 2 piece slotted rotors to show up, for looks there is no contest, Eurotech wins hands down. For proformance I will let you know later after installing them.
 

musicncars

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Just my .02 worth! I read on this site somewhere that the ratio of unsprung to sprung weight is 7 to 1. meaning that every pound of unsprung weight you save is equel to 7 lbs of sprung weight reduction. For what it is worth.
I am waiting for my eurotech 2 piece slotted rotors to show up, for looks there is no contest, Eurotech wins hands down. For proformance I will let you know later after installing them.

the eurotecks look good.....two thumbs up!!! I will have to look into those.
 

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