pteam
Viper Owner
ViperX,
Do you have new half shafts for when runnign the slicks? Did your OEM ones ever break with slicks on?
Do you have new half shafts for when runnign the slicks? Did your OEM ones ever break with slicks on?
Track Tires and Wheels
- Thread starter Rednels
- Start date
Thanks to all for the mentions.
We are having a SPECIAL on the new SSR super-lights, nicely under $2400 / set with caps and lugs. See our post where it belongs in SUPPLIER SPECIALS and GROUP BUYS.... 2 sets = lower price.
Im with JANNI on Tire Wear and Choice..... there is no way a thin-tread 80 soft R tire will outlast a 220 hard tire on track. Newbees should learn on PS2s, and add "R Compound" sticky rubber when they have learned the fundamentals [after 3-5 track days minimum.]
And remember that "used tire" source will NOT be street-legal, and will NOT likely even have matching tread depths! This is NOT GOOD for a newbee or a cheepee to be running a side-to-side stagger!
We are having a SPECIAL on the new SSR super-lights, nicely under $2400 / set with caps and lugs. See our post where it belongs in SUPPLIER SPECIALS and GROUP BUYS.... 2 sets = lower price.
Im with JANNI on Tire Wear and Choice..... there is no way a thin-tread 80 soft R tire will outlast a 220 hard tire on track. Newbees should learn on PS2s, and add "R Compound" sticky rubber when they have learned the fundamentals [after 3-5 track days minimum.]
And remember that "used tire" source will NOT be street-legal, and will NOT likely even have matching tread depths! This is NOT GOOD for a newbee or a cheepee to be running a side-to-side stagger!
ROAD RACING on slicks is not ******* halfshafts.
DRAG RACING IS ****** on shafts, esp w/ slicks.
sorry...gotta disagree. The Used Toyo's were DOT legal and typically still had some level of tread left. Altough I would make a recomendation only to use them on the track I did run them on the street from time to time. There were no stagger issues on any of the tires I bought. I ran a variety of tires from PS1, toyo VRL slicks, Dunlap slick, Hoosiers. the dunlaps were by far the fastest but only lasted 2 short sessions. I posted up pics of them long ago. The toyo's were the most consistant all the way to the end. The PS1 would have plenty of tread but got hard and slippery (from a track perspective) within a few months. I suspect the PS2s being a full street tire would do the same. I couldn't bring myself to spend 1600 to 1800 for a set of PS1 twice a year when I could buy 3 or 4 total sets of used tires a year and run faster.
I'm certianly not saying I'm right and Jon's wrong. But I am saying there are options and trade offs for what your expections, budget, risk aversion, and speeds you wish to go. If this becomes a hobby you'll be surprised how much money you'll spend. You'll learn what works and what doesn't work for the track. Some cars that look fast are not, and some that don't look it...are....Get a log book now and keep notes.
Achilles99
Enthusiast
Actually, the jury is out on DOT tires being street legal. My friend was given a ticket for driving on them. He did some research to try and fight it, but here's the findings:
From TIRERACK's Website:
WARNING: DOT labeled Hoosier Racing Tires meet Department of Transportation requirements for marking and performance only and are NOT INTENDED FOR HIGHWAY USE. It is unsafe to operate any Hoosier Racing Tire including DOT tires on public roads. The prohibited use of Hoosier Racing Tires on public roadways may result in loss of traction, unexpected loss of vehicle control, or sudden loss of tire pressure, resulting in a vehicle crash and possibly injury or death.
FROM HOOSIER'S WEBSITE:
Hoosier Racing Tire Corp. offers racing tires for sale only upon the conditions and the terms contained in this disclaimer of liability and indemnity. Due to many varied and different conditions which Hoosier Racing Tires and Tubes are exposed and because of the manner in which racing is conducted, Hoosier Racing Tire Corp. makes absolutely no warranty, expressed or implied, as to the fitness for a general or particular purpose or of merchantability in connection with any offer of sale of Hoosier Racing Tires and Tubes. "HOOSIER RACING TIRES AND TUBES ARE SOLD AS IS." Race Tires are not tested or labeled to meet FMVSS 109 or ECE36 Safety Standards. Therefore it is dangerous and illegal to sell race tires for use on public highways. Any person selling Hoosier Racing Tires or Tubes for highway use agrees to indemnity and reimburse Hoosier Racing Tire Corp. for all loss, damage, or liability Hoosier Racing Tire Corp. may suffer because of such sales. Not applicable where prohibited by law. Not following these warnings CAN CAUSE SEVERE INJURY OR DEATH. For more information read tire labels, follow manufacturer's warnings as molded in tire sidewalls and visit hoosiertire.com.
From TIRERACK's Website:
WARNING: DOT labeled Hoosier Racing Tires meet Department of Transportation requirements for marking and performance only and are NOT INTENDED FOR HIGHWAY USE. It is unsafe to operate any Hoosier Racing Tire including DOT tires on public roads. The prohibited use of Hoosier Racing Tires on public roadways may result in loss of traction, unexpected loss of vehicle control, or sudden loss of tire pressure, resulting in a vehicle crash and possibly injury or death.
FROM HOOSIER'S WEBSITE:
Hoosier Racing Tire Corp. offers racing tires for sale only upon the conditions and the terms contained in this disclaimer of liability and indemnity. Due to many varied and different conditions which Hoosier Racing Tires and Tubes are exposed and because of the manner in which racing is conducted, Hoosier Racing Tire Corp. makes absolutely no warranty, expressed or implied, as to the fitness for a general or particular purpose or of merchantability in connection with any offer of sale of Hoosier Racing Tires and Tubes. "HOOSIER RACING TIRES AND TUBES ARE SOLD AS IS." Race Tires are not tested or labeled to meet FMVSS 109 or ECE36 Safety Standards. Therefore it is dangerous and illegal to sell race tires for use on public highways. Any person selling Hoosier Racing Tires or Tubes for highway use agrees to indemnity and reimburse Hoosier Racing Tire Corp. for all loss, damage, or liability Hoosier Racing Tire Corp. may suffer because of such sales. Not applicable where prohibited by law. Not following these warnings CAN CAUSE SEVERE INJURY OR DEATH. For more information read tire labels, follow manufacturer's warnings as molded in tire sidewalls and visit hoosiertire.com.
Kai SRT10
Enthusiast
They are definitely stickier than the V700's or PS Cups, which are the only comparable tires I've used. After 1 track day (five 20-minute sessions), they are holding up well, and don't look abused. (actually, they don't look too bad at all.) The wear so far is very good compared with what I'm used to, but I think that may be largely due to the track surface. I'm used to running at Pueblo in Colorado, which is very very rough on tires because of the track configuration and ragged surface. Miller Motorsports Park asphault is smooth as a baby's bottom and I'm guessing that the track surface has a lot to do with the small amount of wear I'm seeing. (That, and the fact that it was my first day at this track, and I wasn't really pushing all that hard.)
So, I can't really compare wear on an apples to apples basis. (The V710's definitely do stick to the road, however.)
So, I can't really compare wear on an apples to apples basis. (The V710's definitely do stick to the road, however.)
- Joined
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Pteam,
Yes on the 1/2 shafts. I broke one set on my SRT-10 on the street. It's the cages that fail.
A few of our guys have broken 1/2 shafts while on the street and at the drags.
If you plan to drag your car with sticky tires and dump the clutch (which I don't recommend) call JonB and get a set of upgraded 1/2 shafts.
You will still likely break something if you dump the clutch with sticky tires. Better to slide the clutch a bit and save the drivetrain. Check for posts by Jamie Furman that have videos of him launching a Viper. Very refined, effective and very fast technique without dumping the clutch.
On the track - road race course, the OE clutch and 1/2 shalfts are plenty strong.
In my Paxton car, I have Unitrax upgraded 1/2 shafts, a Quaife diff, beefed up trans (by John Donato), OE flywheel and Spec stage 3+ metallic clutch / pp combo. So far this combo has held up very well to 925 rwhp / 810 rwtq - but I don't dump the clutch and don't speed shift.
Good luck,
Dan
Yes on the 1/2 shafts. I broke one set on my SRT-10 on the street. It's the cages that fail.
A few of our guys have broken 1/2 shafts while on the street and at the drags.
If you plan to drag your car with sticky tires and dump the clutch (which I don't recommend) call JonB and get a set of upgraded 1/2 shafts.
You will still likely break something if you dump the clutch with sticky tires. Better to slide the clutch a bit and save the drivetrain. Check for posts by Jamie Furman that have videos of him launching a Viper. Very refined, effective and very fast technique without dumping the clutch.
On the track - road race course, the OE clutch and 1/2 shalfts are plenty strong.
In my Paxton car, I have Unitrax upgraded 1/2 shafts, a Quaife diff, beefed up trans (by John Donato), OE flywheel and Spec stage 3+ metallic clutch / pp combo. So far this combo has held up very well to 925 rwhp / 810 rwtq - but I don't dump the clutch and don't speed shift.
Good luck,
Dan
Chuck 98 RT/10
Enthusiast
As usual Janni hits the nail on the head 99.99% of the time.
Kai SRT10
Enthusiast
Mark Williams makes some Viper half shafts. They are pretty much bullet proof.
Mark Williams Enterprises- Homepage
I too have beefed up the drive line of my car, with a carbon fiber drive shaft, Quaiffe diff, upgraded transmission, and Mark Williams half shafts. The weak link for me now is the pinion bearing (connects drive shaft to dif) which I just had to replace.
Particularly if you've got sticky tires, there's a lot of stress on the driveline components. Stuff is going to break if you thrash the car like God and Herb Helbig intended you to.
As for using street tires for the learning process, I guess that I feel that a tire like the Pilot Sport Cup is better to learn on than a fully treaded tire. When I was first tracking my car on the street tires (Pilot Sports) they chunked like crazy, with the tread blocks coming off big time. I found the track wear of the PS Cups to be more consistent, and the performance also more consistent over the course of a long day at the track. I also found the Sport Cups to have pretty progressive response in terms of loss of grip.
I don't think I would recommend DOT slicks, but Sport Cups are a good compromise.
Mark Williams Enterprises- Homepage
I too have beefed up the drive line of my car, with a carbon fiber drive shaft, Quaiffe diff, upgraded transmission, and Mark Williams half shafts. The weak link for me now is the pinion bearing (connects drive shaft to dif) which I just had to replace.
Particularly if you've got sticky tires, there's a lot of stress on the driveline components. Stuff is going to break if you thrash the car like God and Herb Helbig intended you to.
As for using street tires for the learning process, I guess that I feel that a tire like the Pilot Sport Cup is better to learn on than a fully treaded tire. When I was first tracking my car on the street tires (Pilot Sports) they chunked like crazy, with the tread blocks coming off big time. I found the track wear of the PS Cups to be more consistent, and the performance also more consistent over the course of a long day at the track. I also found the Sport Cups to have pretty progressive response in terms of loss of grip.
I don't think I would recommend DOT slicks, but Sport Cups are a good compromise.
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